lmorris

Part number off hand escapes me, but it has the same basic as the 6L HPOP STC fitting if that helps.

Heard from engineers yesturday that they have determined why these new 2013/2014 MY trucks are injesting snow and setting this code. Apparently if you don't clean the snow off the front bumper by the right headlamp before you start the truck it will pack the filter full of snow. This only applies to the often lighter snow we get in colder climates. Gonna piss off all those guys with remote starts now ain't it?

I started to read that, but stopped once I realized it is the same as the PDF in the body builders manual. Reading further this time I found the issue. In the bulliten it has the "manual transmission" discalimer for diesel and not gas. On the body builders web page it is listed wrong. Thanks for the info. Will have to go have a chat with someone on this issue.

Yes.

I had the pleasure of installing a high idle on a newly constructed tow truck last week, don't ask me why they bought a used 2006 F550 to do this too. I hooked up the required 12v to the PTO wire, left the reference circuit open because customer asked for the lowest RPM available, and no high idle. Checked all inputs to PCM and checked for 12v at PCM connector, all good, no high idle. Go through the body builder's manual for any further information, nothing to help me there, so we ordered in a PCM. Still no go. Brought it up with our other diesel tech and he mentions he had one long ago that required a resistor to work, didn't recall anything specific though. So I put in a resistor for 1250 RPM and low and behold it works. Went back through the body builder's manual and it states nothing that a diesel engine with a manual transmission requires a resistor, only GAS engines. They took the truck with the new PCM anyways.

I have done 3 now for this failure. All 3 had piston to head contact and recieved long blocks. 2 of them had to have a new HPFP to get them running, not sure why.

Doesn't look like it does. Here is what is in the manual. NOTE: Initialization is required to learn both the full UP and full DOWN positions and the profile of the glass as it travels through the glass channel. Once initialized, obstacle detection is enabled. This procedure is only required for Navigator (LF and RF) or Expedition (LF only) window motors. NOTE: The window motor must be initialized whenever: the motor is removed from window regulator drum housing, a new motor is installed, a new window regulator is installed, new window glass is installed, glass top run removal or installation is carried out or when carrying out any operation in which grease or lubricants are applied to the window system. All window components (window glass, window regulator, window motor and glass top run) must be installed and tightened to specification before carrying out this procedure. Refer to the De-Initialization Procedure prior to performing the window motor initialization (unless a new motor is being installed). NOTE: A new (or de-initialized) LF/RF (Navigator) or LF (Expedition) window motor will not operate in one-touch up mode until initialized. If a new LF/RF window motor has been installed, proceed to the Window Motor Initialization procedure in this section. NOTE: Excessive bounce-back (window reverses direction with no obstructions present) may indicate that a de-initialization procedure may need to be performed. De-Initialization Procedure Start with the ignition key in the RUN position and open one front door. [*] NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 must be performed within 8 seconds. Turn the ignition key from OFF to RUN 5 times. [*]Press the window control switch to the one-touch DOWN position (second detent) and release. Window Motor Initialization WARNING: Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. [*]Start with the ignition key in the OFF position and with the LF/RF door open. [*]Turn the ignition key to the ON position. [*]Activate and hold the window control switch in the one-touch DOWN position (second detent) until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds at the bottom of its travel and release the switch. [*] NOTE: After performing this step, wait a minimum of 3 seconds before operating the window control switch or ignition switch. Activate and hold the window control switch (with no interruptions) in the one-touch UP position (second detent) until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds into the glass top run and release the switch. [*]Verify correct operation of the window by carrying out the one-touch up and one-touch down features. If the window does not operate correctly, carefully repeat this procedure.

I would have put a new cluster in it today, but the new one was broken right out of the box. Anyways, customer told me he had the heat turned down in the cab for the last week and has not had any issues.

Have you tried unplugging the EGR valve and see if it all comes back? New doesn't always mean good. Funny thing too, with the old valve reading 3.32V KOEO, if it was truely open like that reading states, it should not have started.

Ya, they are on the shelf next to the glow plug indexer. Where else would they be?

Like the drivers aren't bad enough because of poor instructors with less than honourable morals. When the system fails, nobody will be around to park the car because they either didn't need to learn or forgot how to. Besides, if YOU can't get out of your vehicle because the spot is too small, what about the poor guy YOU parked beside. If that happened to me I would have no problems putting a nice dent in the other guys door because HE was a moron to begin with. This self parking tech is pure CRAP.

Time to update the service advisors on fuel filter replacement scedules. Thanks Keith, you gonna make some customers happy.....LOL!

Most likely its because they get IPR valves back that were done under ESP that were affected by this seal.

If all else checks out, no reason why you can't. You have to buy a full set of bearings to get the thrust bearing anyways, so might as well do all of them while you are in there. I have changed crank bearings when I don't like what they look like when doing bed plate seals, but never for end play concerns.

That is exactly what the issue is. This way they don't have to invest any more time and money into fixing an increasingly annoying issue that is plaguing a lot of their vehicles.

Yes, because everybody carries those snow squejies with the 6 foot handle on them.

That I did check, plus I was the last guy to lift the cab anyways. Will look into that when he comes back in. Thanks for input, I appreciate it.

Yup, we see a lot. The vacuum pump is oil lubed. So when they fail the systems gets pumped full of oil. You have to replace all the lines and the vacuum canister/battery tray/degas bottle if oil makes it to the cannister.

Customer concern: Was driving down highway, check engine light came on, all gauges dropped off and all warning lights came on, transmission gear idicator also shuts off, multiple module communication codes, most of which were set by the cluster, one in the PCM which turned on the light, none in TCM. Vehicle operated normally other wise. Lasted for about 6KM then went back to normal. Shortly before this the blower motor went. Replaced the blower motor so I could drive the truck, could not recreate concern. Gave back to customer. Customer gets 30 minutes from dealer to his next job, HVAC guy. Shuts off truck for 30 minutes. Won't crank. Cluster shows park indicator, so it's not a TCM issue. He shifted to neutral and it cranks and starts. All is good. Brings it back, same codes. Due to lack of time, we just disconnected the TBC and let him go, he called back later with issue still there. We are leaning towards a cluster issue, mostly because the truck will operate normally if the concern happens when the truck is running. Any thoughts?

On a side note about kerosene, a few years back I found out my grandad used to work in the English dock yards after WW2 as a "Diesel fitter". He used to modify diesel engines to run on kerosene due to the shortage of diesel fuel.

Good stuff.

LOL, there is a post in the Canadian boards for the same issue.

Lucky guy....We are planning a trip to DisneyWorld maybe feb/march. Can't wait.

The 6.7L with a platsic oil pan that I didn't think needed a new drain plug, because the turbo oil tube was leaking, 1 month ago, is now back and I am replacing the drain plug.

Good luck. If you go for training you will most likely come to Edmonton. We have a couple of good trainers here.