lmorris

The F150 is the only truck on that list with the BMS. Easiest way to tell is the little module at the negative terminal.

The one currently in my stall shattered #8 rod, took chunks out of #4 and #8 cylinder walls, and poked 2 holes in the block. Something bounced off the camshaft and left a nice mark. Heads are coming off to inspect. Update, #8 piston siezed in cylinder. 12 bent exhaust pushrods, 2 broken rocker arm mounts, exhaust valve contact on all pistons. Long block time. Now to inspect the fuel system for contamination.

Yes and yes, I put a long block in it over a year ago. By stupid I mean all gauges drop to zero, all warning lights come on, the message center cylces through all it warnings and the transmission indicator goes out. Last time I looked at the truck it would do this for about 30 seconds then return to normal for about a minute, then do it again.

All under hood wiring looks good. It's a real stumper. Going to hotline with it once I get another work order written up. Another odd thing is once it was going stupid outside then it would be ok, then it would go stupid again. By the time I got back to the truck with my multimeter to check the terminating resistors at the DLC the truck was fine.

That's what we thought, but it runs and shifts normal when it happens. Doesn't a vref short typically result in a driveability concern or the dreaded PCM reset? Plus there are no related codes that a vref issue would normally set.

Have a 2009 F350 that we have been fighting with for a bit. Came in for cluster going stupid with a lot of communication codes in all modules, mostly pertaining to the cluster. Disconnected the TBC module and let him go, has same issues. Went though all the chafe/ green death points with nothing found. Bulk head connectors at left front spring tower also good. The weather warmed up and it was good, we assumed that the cluster may be over heating when he has his heat turned up. We changed the cluster and he was good for a few days. He then mentions that when it happens it wants to go into regen, but never completes the cycle. Last time it was back I checked a few other modules and the bulk head connectors again and he left. He went 4 days with no issues, then it went into regen, the cooling fan went to max speed, the cluster went stupid. After driving it for a bit like this, the fan slowed down, the cluster came back to normal and it said regen was complete, and has been good ever since. I doubt it has anything to do with the cooling fan, but am leaning towards a PCM issue now. Any thoughts?

I have another 6.7L F550 with a blown engine and an F350 6.7L with over boost issues coming in, both from the same fleet as the current F550 blown engine in my stall.

If you remove the motor from the tcase and work the switch does it move the motor in all directions? Have you tried to hand shift the tcase through all the ranges?

2011 F550 6.7L with a hole in the block at #8 cylinder.

Well the insurance adjuster estimated it at $7000 damage and it's on it's way to the body shop.

Thats some mad skillz right there.

Not the transmission on a 2008 F350 6.4L that I diagnosed a week ago and was told it was booked in for me today because the tranny finally showed. Instead it's in another techs bay because the advisor decided to give it away AFTER telling me yesterday she didn't want to give away my work. I told her I would have no problems getting it done today. Heads are going to roll on monday when she gets in.

If they don't write it off at least it will be going to a Very good body shop close to where I work. I know they do good work, they send us the mechanical parts of most repairs. We pulled the drivetrain out of a 2010 Escape that they were replacing the entire front clip on. When it came back to have the drivettrain put back in, you couldn't tell it was repaired, AWESOME job done. Besides, if it is fixed, we will most likely keep it for a while. The Windstar it replaced had almost 300,000 Km on it when we gave it to a family member. I plan on doing the same with this one too.

Woken up at 2 AM by the police with the information that a fleeing 2007 F350 had hit my 2013 Escape. They never did catch the guy but thankfully got all the information from the licence plate.

If the piston is damaged and there is metal in the pan you can guarantee the cylinder wall is scored up, that is enough to put an Enhanced short block into cost cap. I have never heard of anyone putting in individual parts and a bare block, mainly because you can't get them. Just have yourself a good story to support it when you put in for approval based on the cost cap. If you think the heads have taken damage you put them in the list, along with the most likely damaged rocker arms, and they will most likely tell you to replace the entire motor. Most of mine end up as an Enhanced short block with rocker arms.

Short block and a full set of rocker arms is the norm on these. Unless the piston melted down enough to mess up the valve seats, which I have seen once. Then you add in a cylinder head. Being ESP, you will most likely have to tear it down and take pictures.

We have had issues with tank filling on cold days. They have to sit in the shop for 30-40 minutes before they take any fluid.

Depends on what the calibration levels are. Last one I did was a 2011 that did all 4 modules, last 3 before that did only the PCM, they were 2013 MY.

Long enough to break the injector.

We had a few that had to have the SCR assembly replaced after numerous attempts to repair. Try seperating the tailpipe from the SCR and have a look for any soot. They tend to set the code before you can see black tailpipes.

I was told that the engineers were aware of rod bearing issues on 2012MY engines. Not sure what the issue was or what was done to fix it.

There is a sevice message stating Ford wants you to change the NOX sensor and module as a pair, and you are not to seperate the two when returning for warranty. We are guessing it's a pin fit issue. Changing both usually fixes the issue. Also, when you do any parameter reset on the SCR or particle filter systems, you need to keep the key off for 3 minutes after to allow for a proper reset or it won't do it and you will get a repeat code.

That is quite odd. We had one in last month, same company, same issue, they went after the guy for the bill and his insurance paid for it.

We have one on order, USA no stock. When it comes in I can do that.

You can go in with IDS and check how many times the Oil change warning has been reset. I believe it can be found in Datalogger, but not sure. I was told it takes into account idle hours for the calculation, but how much of an effect it has on the calculation is unknown.