lmorris

I have an F550 that needs a short block due to a dead miss with excessive blow-by and low compression on one hole. I haven't torn into it yet but I suspect a melted piston, mainly because of the rhythmic puffing coming from the oil filler. Another Ford dealer told the owner that a failed head gasket will damage injectors which in turn melt the piston. Has anyone ever heard of this before?

So I have the truck back in, replaced the MAF sensor and reset. Code comes back, noticed ssm 44130, update to PPT J for this code. Go through the PPT again and it says to replace the PCM. Contacted hotline about the block off test and they said the PPT now factors in MAF readings to determine a slightly open EGR and it is no longer required. I still get the same low, out of spec, readings. Plus the specs have not changed since I last looked at the truck. If the readings match those in the PPT then they have you replacing the EGR valve. This, to me, makes no sense. I also now get P2457, EGR cooler. This just keeps getting better. Cooler is not plugged. Not sure what is going in with this one. Now Hotline is saying that based on my low MAF readings, the EGR valve is to be replaced. Funny thing is that the PPT J9 states the EGR valve is to be replaced if the readings are 3.5 to 3.8 kHz. My readings of 3.1 does not put me in that range and has me replace the MAF, then move on to the PCM instead. I bet someone messed up when they coded that PPT and mixed up the result instructions. Replaced the EGR valve, and performed the 10 second on, 30 second off to relearn the position, roadtest and it sets p0402. PPT passes. KOER still sets p2457. Ran cooler performance PPT and it passes, then it sets P1102(MAF in range but lower than expected). I ordered in a PCM based on PPT J10. We shall see what happens when it gets in.

Not to be a boob....I have done 4 long blocks so far, 2 under the TSB, and have come in just under the times on all 4. Remove the battery tray, degas bottle and CAC as a unit, Take apart the intake tubing. Take your cooling stack out. Tear down the front of the engine in chassis, remove the intakes, remove the EGR cooler, remove the crankcase vent system, remove the turbo, LEAVE the drivers side up pipe in place. LEAVE the oil pan on. Then proceed with the rest of the removal. Reverse to install. The WSM is a little off on this one as far as order of removal goes.

Most likely came out of an old airplane pusher. One dealership I worked at had one as a mule, that was all it had, R,N,D.

There have been SSM's about that concern since 2004. Don't see many but they are out there.The other diesel guy here just finished one for the same thing

We were pricing out an Enhanced long block, parts said it only applies to complete drop in engines. Nothing said about loose injectors.

Particle filter on a 2009 F350 cab/chassis. For some reason the tail pipe hits the frame member at the rear tank before it separates from the particle filter. I have to drop the down pipe and slide the converter forward to get it out. Have they always been this way?

It has to crank continuously for over 15 seconds with ICP below 500 PSI before it will set a code.

We had one of them in for the same reason 2 weeks ago. BTW, the guy was running it chipped..

Got me 8 retail injectors( customer requested) on a 2007 F350. Noticed some degas bottle purging(chip on extreme), going to try to get him back in later for head gaskets. Down graded to 4 injectors, left side was done recently by the driver's Dad. No go on the head gaskets.

Ran out of diesel work for now, so I get to do front FMPP brakes on a 2012 Escape.

Did you at least charge them for brake pads? I hope there is no warranty on the rotors at least.

FLEX-HONE GBD40018 I think we got it from our local Warehouse Services store. Should be easy enough to find.

They now have a broadcast message for this very discussion. Makes you wonder who trolls this site.

If I recall, this information was given to me by our resident Trainer/ Diesel fanatic.

Just checked, Mitchel time is 3 hours to r&r t-stats.

That is when I would do up two estimates. One to patch that hole, including the piston Have the head sent out for inspection to a reputable machine shop as well. A second estimate to replace the engine. Let the burden fall on the owner, not you. This job is stressful enough with out having to decide how much the customer can afford. How do the cylinder walls look. If you have no ring land and can still see the cross hatch you should have no problems fixing the bad cylinder. The last 6L piston I replaced for hitting the valves, I did in chassis, including honing the cylinder, and had the head rebuilt, it is still running good.

Blown RH high pressure line on a 2002 F350. Retail oil cooler on a 2009 F350 6.4L( 3rd in 2 weeks). Ambo outside with a plugged DPF, runs for 10 secs then dies, followed by a loud hissing noise from the hole in the DPF sensor tube. Waiting on a VMAC spacer for the fan clutch on my last 6.4L oil cooler job (inadvertently ovaled it trying to heat up the lock tight while it was in the vice, so I could change the fan clutch. .)

I think book time for the t-stat is 3.5 hrs. Then we add on 1.7 hrs for the flush. It's up to you if you want to charge more time to put the t-stats back in. I put just enough back together for it to run, so I don't charge more to put them back in.

Doing the final cooling system flush on the 6.4L oil cooler HPFP combo. Inadvertently buggered the fan clutch spacer for the VMAC system and have to wait to get a new one before I can put the fan back on. Have 2 electric fans and cold water running over the rad to keep the temps in check during the 1 hour run time for the chem flush.

If we do the math, 200 hours time 53 = 10600 km. I would say that is to high. Even if you run synthetic oil. I usually preach 150 hours max. A few updates ago, Ford built in a mileage based regen event that is not dependent on DPF load, so that will make the actual DPF load based regen events differ. Nice thing about idling is that it won't run the this passive regen, so I believe the oil dilution will be less. This is just my opinion, others may think differently.

According to your post, you forgot to put the t-stats back in... I started then made the decision to remove the t-stats.I even managed to do it with out taking out the degas bottle.

To answer my own question, it works, you just have to get it up to temp to flush the rad. After draining the flush chemical I back flush the heater core with the driver's block drain removed, flush out the rad through the upper hose, then run it with straight water till hot to get the remainder out of the coolers. Drain the block and rad then run it with the rad plug out while filling the degas with the hose. Drain the rad and block once more, fill with coolant, top off with water, done.

6.4L in my bay for retail oil cooler and HPFP.Two 6L no starts outside, one is low enough that it might just be an IPR. And a 7.3L that was a no start until I found the a loose EOT sensor plugged in and laying in the valley. Plugged in the EOT that is actually on the engine and it started, doesn't run that good though off idle. Fuel smells old. I think this one was sitting for a bit. Fresh fuel and an oil change are first on its list.