lmorris

Are there any signs of coolant in the exhaust? Use a vacuum type cooling system filler and apply 20" of vacuum to the system, you will have to lower the level quite a bit to do this, If vacuum holds over 15 minutes most likely the cooler is ok. When you say 7-9 degrees difference, is that F or C. Ford spec is 15 degrees Fahrenheit, so 7-9 are normal if in degrees F. Is there a lot of white flacky residue around the cap, if so the coolant is venting out past the cap. 20 PSI is way to high. Typically if the pressure raises right away its the cooler thats leaking, if it takes some hard driving to push it up then you have headgasket issues. I have seen headgaskets leak without an EGR cooler issue. Most likely you will have turbo unison ring issues also. As high boost is usually the cause of headgasket failure. The reason for replacing the oil cooler is this "The oil cooler has the smallest restriction in the cooling system, coolant flows directly from the oil cooler into the EGR cooler. If the oil cooler becomes restricted, coolant flow is reduced through the EGR cooler and causes overheating of the EGR cooler and it cracks internally." I see no problem in using aftermarket oil coolers, just don't eliminate the EGR cooler.

We just our R134 core tool 2 days ago. Don't think it will ever get used for a very long time. Oh well....

The latest version of AVG is a resource hog. The registry cleaner is a joke because it tells you you have issues then you have to pay to have the tool to clean them up. Funny thing is that I tried it on 2 different computers and got the exact same list of problems. It's a money gimmic. Microsoft's new antivirus program, Security essentials" works very nice. I use it at home on my XP computer and on my work Win7 laptop. CCleaner is a nice cleanup tool from Piriform. Download it here, www.piriform.com/ccleaner

Not that it pertains much to us but there is a broadcast message saying NOT to reprogram the new focus if you have 75.01. It will cause a no start. Makes you wonder whats going on over there with all the website issues they are having plus IDS concerns.

Here's a couple of mine: Dropped both heads back on a 6L, snugged everything up and started to put the pushrods back in, only to realize I had left the rags on top of the lifters. Installed the first updated STC fitting, put everything back together, only to find no ICP pressure, I had installed the fitting with the hole facing up by mistake. Rebuilt a ZF5 in an F550, got the front and rear seals mixed up. Thankfully it was 2WD so it didn't take much to get it back out to redo the seals. My personal favorite was when I had a U-Haul truck come in with a rebuilt 390 in it that threw a rod. It was installed by a small shop, but came to us because it was thought to be warrenty. They left a rag on the oil pick-up.

Just installed 75. Patched to 75.01 already.....

75 is available, downloads are so slow though. Trying tomorrow.

My biggest set of Channel locks does the trick for me. I think the biggest issue with using extensions is most people will use an impact extension which won't get deep enough into the cap. I use a regular 1/2 inch extension with no issues.

Now they want pics and maintenence records. The pics are no problem, the failure is obvious. The records are going to be this claims down fall. They have them but are not so regular. Sadly the failure was caused by the HPP leaking into the crankcase and you know the rest.

Before seeing this thread that discussion went on a lot about dipping. It really looks like they do. My bad for being so gullible I guess. Although that is one of the reasons my wife married me, I am one of the few nice guys left, sometimes too nice, It gets me into some funny predicaments, but that is a story for another time.

Not a bad idea. Out of habit I save the downloads instead of just installing from the website. I also keep the earlier version on file just in case. Will try it when I get a chance and post results. Just did an update on a 6L FICM with 74.00 with no problems. Next up are headgaskets so I may be a couple of days. Our tune-up tech is at 74.05 and couldn't reprogram an 06 Escape yesterday, he will keep me posted with progress on his end. Our Ford provided VCM/IDS is only at 74.04 and it seems to be OK so far.

74.05 locks up on us before reprogram begins. I used IDScleanup off INFORD and went back to 73.08, but I get an issue with Turbo boost test not running because it won't pick up EGRVP. Updated to 74 but didn't update to 74.05 yet. Waiting to see if 74.06 fixes the issue.

I don't think they dip them. I put in an FQR 7.3L the other week and the side of the oil filter that faces the oil pan was not painted, just had a bit of over spray. They must have one those fancy new robots painting them real good. ALl the valve cover bolts that required nuts on them to hold stuff in place I just swapped from the old engine, it's faster that trying to clean them.

Now we play the "Will Ford pay for this?" game. Hopefully they don't want pictures.

Didn't save this one, no-one bothered to update it though.

Guess what that came out of.....

If I absolutely have to leave the key in the run position, I will disconnect the starter wire under the hood.

With the cab off and the rest of the truck on the ground, I had to kneal to do the drilling. My legs are still sore.

Let me guess, his kid is "TATER TOT".... You guys are funny right there, don't care who you are.... To get back on the topic, I like to keep mine short, then add some "Product" as the nice lady that cuts my hair calls it, when I'm not at work, to get the messy look. Funny thing is the advisor here always comments, nicely, "nice hair cut", when I don't have it all "messed up". I come in one day with it done up once because I had to go out right after work, I get the snooty, "nice bed head buddy".

Use the MAP pid and subtract what the BARO pid reads to give you boost pressure. Or record MAP KOEO and use that as your base, anything above that is boost. Ignore EBP, it has no bearing on boost for this engine.

Give it back and tell him to tow it there when it stalls. Can't diagnose something that is not currently happening. That ranks up there with the guys that bring in the truck on the friday before a long weekend and "NEED TO GET TO THE LAKE TONIGHT".

I have the cab off because it originally came in for high fuel pressure codes and did the HPP. We noticed the exhaust leak during diagnosis. We don't have a good enough welder for the nut thing unfortunatly. After wrecking 3 drill bits we finally drilled enough of the bolt out that another try with the easy out worked with very little damage to the threads.

Have enough of the bolt drilled to get an easy out in there but it feels too tight and I am worried the easy out will break before the bolt turns out. Anyone ever put heat to these heads to loosen up the bolt, and if so how much heat is safe? Put some heat to it, unfortunately it is close to the exposed part of the headgasket with the rivet, and the gasket gets bright red. I don't want to wreck the gasket. Any suggestions? What is the general consensus on helicoiling this hole? I don't want to have to pull the head, only as a last resort.

IIRC the BOO switch has 2 positions, one for the lights and one for the BCM/PCM. I have seen a few that have lights working, but have other issues pertaining to the BOO switch.

The new regulator fixed it. Next time these guys send me another 7.3L in this condition, it gets the works, new engine, new fuel system, new batteries.