lmorris

Retail headgaskets,egr and oil coolers, STC fitting and bed plate reseal. CHA CHING...... Quoted at 42.5 hours. About fricking time. The service writer told the customer it would be done in 2 days.....To quote my 4 year old: "Ah, don't fink so"

Turned out to be a bad FICM. All power and ground curcuits are good. First one I have seen do this.

Had one in last week for no start. Checked codes P0611. Checked FICM_MPWR, started at 18V then dropped to 0V. Noticed the injectors weren't buzzing either. Performed a PMI on the FICM and it came back to life, but would fall below the 45V threshold. Replaced the half shell and all was good. Now it is back again for the same thing. Haven't had a chance to get it to it yet, so I am looking for some advice first. What will cause a FICM to blank out but not completely fry it?

Was told the same thing. I got the "When replacing the EGR cooler don't forget to service the oil cooler as well and flush the cooling system properly" spiel. Upon questioning them they admitted to the mistake.

Actually they are not that bad. Just keep the bolts with the pump when you put it back in.

Wish I had this webcam last year. Customer comes in a says the truck died when he coasted into his driveway. Half the frickin engine was in the bottom of the oilpan.

Thats why we need to keep our poop in a group and make sure we don't piss them off. A good story for each punch time goes a long way. BTW, we had an NOX sensor claim kicked because the part number is not recognized by the warranty system.

I think something is wrong when my knees or back DON'T hurt. Odd.

Your right, it is backwards. Will have to look into that. The crane is rated for a 6L, barely. A have the boom fully extended so I can get the engine onto the stand, If i don't I have to put the engine on floor stands and use the hoist arm to lift it onto the engine stand. The webcam setup was set to mirror image. Not sure why, but I changed it.

The ram broke on my engine crane, luckily it was high enough to get the engine on the stand to reseal bed plates. Now I have to wait for the new ram to finish the job. Good thing I go to school for the rest of the week.

First successfull repair, so far. Reprogram, regen, reset SCR and NOX. Roadtest, codes return, PPT RD, replaced NOX sensor, regen, reset SCR and NOX tables. Roadtest 15 KM, no codes.

To follow up Jim's post, getting the rad out is not an issue. Putting it back in is th issue. #1: the WSM tells you to secure the lower shroud to the diffuser, but doesn't say how. I tried a few things, tie-straps, bungees, no go, they got in the way or would have to be left there. #2: it is a tight fit going back in, after 3 tries I noticed the core getting scratched up, sparing anymore damage to the rad was my major concern. #3: there just aren't that many free techs on hand in a mostly flat rate shop to help.

Not so sure about that Jim. At least you knew those repairs would fix the problem....

Quote from the hotline: After performing the reprogram. In regards to the P164A DTC, it is recommended to perform a manual regeneration, SCR parameter reset and NOX adaptive table reset using the IDS. Then road test the vehicle. IF the DTC returns, refer to pin point test RD and replace the NOX sensor. NOX adaptive table reset is in the powertrain - service functions - reset/clear functions menu. If the steps are not done in this order, you will get the code re-occurring.

Quote from the hotline: In regards to the P164A DTC, it is recommended to perform a manual regeneration, SCR parameter reset and NOX adaptive table reset using the IDS. Then road test the vehicle. IF the DTC returns, refer to pin point test RD and replace the NOX sensor. NOX adaptive table reset is in the powertrain - service functions - reset/clear functions menu.

That I have noticed. If you read up on the DTC in PCED it says it monitors the NOX sensor trims under various driving conditions, especially cruise and decel.

It might be easier to tell him to just disconnect the batteries.

This is a false code set after the last update recall. Ford engineers are currently working on a fix. Will keep you posted. At this point all you can do is tell the customer "sorry but you gotta put up with it for now".

That's too funny.

Typically there should be one wire going from the passenger battery positive terminal to the starter relay on the fender. This is your power feed to everything on the truck but the starter itself. You should be able to put the disconnect switch inline with this wire. If there are other aftermarket accessories wired directly to the battery move them to a junction point after the switch.

Same here. Hotline wants me to leak check the intake and exhaust. Truck already left so, next time.

Been used to working in a dimly lit old shop for over 15 years. Our new shop, coming soon, will hopefully look like Brad's.

The calibration update TSB has been released. No info on the NOX sensor though.

It's officially out. 11-4-21. A few EGR code issues plus P164A. No mention of the P2A00 though.

Brad, your shop is WAY to bright. I would have to where sunglasses all the time.