lmorris

FIRE They put it out before it did any damage though.

Add 2 more to that. Nice thing is you can hand bomb them even when full.

No, you need away to activate the solenoids in the unit to bleed it properly. If need be and you are really stuck, bleed the system, drive it and try to get the ABS to work a few times then bleed it again.

Does that include removing the freaking hand railing that usually blocks access to removing the dog house? Last one I did I removed the driver's seat and steering wheel also.

Those aux. heaters are sure fun to flush, aren't they.

Never said it was difficult.

Just watch....

It comes in handy when your PCM blanks out on you for no apparent reason. When attempting to communicate it will look for previous sessions and pull PCM data from the last session so you don't have to get tear tag or as-built data.

At hot idle, the PCM will try to hit around 16 PSI, 70% VGT usually does this. Can you ramp up RPM and actuate VGT, you should be able to hear it going though the sweeps and see EPB change also. Also try VVT test, even on the older models without the cam in the turbo it can help.

Did one the other day after another tech did a coolant flush. Came in the next day, wrench light and reduced power. P00b7-abnormal coolant temp fluctuations. Hoping it was just an air pocket from the flush. This seems a little too picky now.

Ditto, smoked like a bugger too. And adding octane booster doesn't help either. But free is free is free so you put up with for a bit.

It's been so long since I used the DVD's that I had completely forgotten about them. It just seemed odd that they had the procedure twice. One worded slightly different than the other. It seems one was writen by an engineer and the other by a technician.

Had 3 so far. Wonder if it has to do with the cold weather. Heaters not thawing the DEF fast enough before pump runs. ???

Yesterday our Internet went down, again, (but thats a different story for a different time). So I pulled out my coffee table book for the torque procedure on the injectors and HP rail. Page 88, Figure G: HPCR Fuel Components Assembly Procedure, VS. Figure I: Injector-Pipe-Rail Sub Assembly Process. Is it just me or are these the same procedure, just one being a tad more technical that the other?

They can be a bugger that way. And there is no way to pinpoint which injector is the culprit in most cases.

Well I have the heads off. Fire rings for #3 and #5 blown out just like a 6L. Pitting where the fire ring seals, so it gets a new head. May be going home after ordering the head cause there is nothing left except a possible engine swap on an F350 ambulance. Broken injector and 0 PSI. Edit: Note to self: Never, ever use the engine crane with one leg up to sneak it around a tire to put the head back on. Luckily I was out of the way and the EGR cooler bracket took the brunt of the blow as the head hit the floor.

Typically cranking you should have 1500 PSI ICP and around 45% IPR duty cycle. The 730 ICP with 15% IPR tells me you have a possible faulty ICP sensor and the PCM may be ignoring the signal. Clear any codes and try unplugging the ICP sensor and retry. IPR should go up, it may even start. If that is the case carefully inspect the ICP connector if it looks good try a new sensor. If you had a leak in the system the IPR% would be at 85% cranking as it tries to bring up ICP.

Finished working on a 2005 6L for rough running, retail injectors (3) and a FICM half shell. Noticed that the EGR cooler was deleted and no cat. Customer name on the R.O......SMOGBUSTERS....

I hear ya brother....

By the sounds of it you are not the only one in the shop with this issue, am I correct? Get together with your fellow techs and get on the same page as far as wants and needs to increase productivity. Then take it to your manager. If need be, as some managers just don't care, go higher in the chain of command. Good luck.

Back before I was a mechanic, oops, make that a technician, I used to drive a delivery truck for a plumbing wholesale chain. I would do this all the time on the old chevy 3500 they gave me. Back then life was so much simpler. Thanks for the flashback moment Jim, I needed that.

Taken from the inford forums: One way to do it with ISO files. For red DVD's. Go to "my computer" and "C drive=hard disc" Make a new folder entitled as the DVD is(05-06 or whatever it happens to be). I like to start from "my computer" and double click on the DVD drive(usually D) to install the DVD, then click on installshield wizard and follow instructions. When it gets to "start program?" I click on no. click and drag your mouse over all the folders on the dvd. This highlights them inside a box. Then go to the "file and folder tasks" and click on "copy". Highlight the new folder you made and click on copy. It takes upwards of 20 minutes to an hour to copy the DVD files onto the hard drive. Let it copy and use the back arrow to get back to "my computer" Double click on the C drive and open TSO, then open tsobrowser.ini. You will see the list of dvd's at the top of the page. Change the "D" to a C, then after the : put a \and then what you named the file(example above 05-06) Click on "file" and then "save" then close the tsobrowser.ini notepad and "my computer" Copying will continue to take place and a small diaglog box will show you the progress and disappear when copying is done. Remove the DVD and when you click on Service Information, the 05-06 service manuals should have a green box around the "load" icon if you followed instructions to the letter. Any typo will render the program inoperative. Here is the tsobrowser.ini line as it shoud appear for the latest DVD. 05_06=10.0~3~c:\05-06~stock\home.htm~2005-2006 Service Information~October 2008 Note:I like to install the DVD's in order from oldest to newest, as they appear in that order in the "please select a volume to view" box. Works nice, but take awhile to copy the DVD to your hard drive. Have you tried using Daemon tools. Nice program and easy to use.

2008 F350 with 116,443 km on it. Spewing coolant out the degas. Egr coolers dry as a popcorn fart. Off come the heads and I hope I find something for warranty to pay for.

We are in the works of getting a new building . The 2nd last oil cooler failure I did I accidently transfered all the flush water into our used oil tank, it froze... This last one I did I transfered it into empty DEF fluid bulk barrels, all 230L of it. I am curious as to whether to push for a flush bay with a seperate in floor holding tank for these kinds of jobs. Some input from other techs would be appreciated.

Why be sorry? 45L tank.....720 KM. Thats alot better than what the Taurus got for mileage.