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No injector precycle

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hey guys Ive got a problem child blocking my driveway and Im having to work on this thing in 112degree heat with no shade so my brain is a little fried.

 

2005 6.0 83k miles. It started out as getting driven over to my place to do a set of coolers for obvious leaks. it sat maybe an hr and I went to move it and could not get it to start. I had a very erratic injector precycle and the tpyical try to start but wont ficm low voltage type crank. Today I check it out. my ficm voltages all seem good but now Im not even getting a precycle at all during koeo or a injector click test. swaped out a ficm since Ive had that same very situation before. still same result. all fuses and ficm relay are good. I am assuming its a chaffed wire somewhere but I have not been able to find it.

 

suggestions? kinda in a hurry on this one. blocking my driveway so I appologize now for lack of spelling and puncuation. thanks for any help

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If it passes the injector buzz test with no codes, but you hear no clicking from some or all injector(s), the injector(s) are the cause of your no-start. I know it sounds stupid, but I got bit by this very scenario ONCE.

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I am getting no clicking whatsoever today. with both ficms. buzz test passes with no codes and no clicking

 

power and grounds seem to be ok as well

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I'm with Mike on this one, do you have any spare injectors you could plug in and listen to? If your FICM powers are good in scan data, (12/12/47v) you really shouldn't have to look at the relay or power supply. If the relay is bad it blows a code and shows 0v in scan.

 

Posted Image

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I dont have any injectors at my house, actually i take that back my dad has a new one. I try to plug it in and see what happens.

 

I dont know what else it can be.

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Repeat the buzz test one by one, switching the injector to each connector. If it clicks on all eight connectors that you plug it into returning a PASS every time, it needs all eight injectors as hard as it is to believe.

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just finished that. damn new one click just fine and pass the test on all holes. your right I dont beleive it. never have one do that to me all of a sudden. Ive always been able to get them to start when its hot out or the block heater is plugged in. whats worse is it drove here, shut off for an hour and would not restart but waas trying. Today it was even worse and does not even try.

 

I assume this was due to it running with a leaky cooler? it started leaking after a 4 hr drive back to town then sat for about 2 weeks before I looked at it. last week i checked it out and remember running click tests and it was ok then, we started and stopped it a few times Just odd that it happened all of a sudden.

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I assume this was due to it running with a leaky cooler? it started leaking after a 4 hr drive back to town then sat for about 2 weeks before I looked at it. last week i checked it out and remember running click tests and it was ok then, we started and stopped it a few times Just odd that it happened all of a sudden.

I had a truck that suffered catastrophic failure of both coolers once that took out SIX of eight injectors once. Like you, I couldn't believe THAT many injectors failed all at once.
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I was just gonna say, can't coolant/steam intrusion cause some weird injector shit to occur? Things are maybe rusted/corroded up from steam or something?

 

That's almost as perfect as a storm as Bradley's 5.4 cover fiasco in another thread on here.

 

Some days luck is just not in the cards.

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I have some kits in stock @18.00 usually get results within 48 hours, By fax or email. Real easy, take sample, fill out paperwork and drop in mailbox. Part number is OIL-P. Runs thru Cummins in Grand Rapids, MICH.

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good idea on oil samples. guy wants to off load truck so I dont think I will be doing much more to it now. still dead in my driveway however, he would be happy to just get it running but at this point its not going to happen short of replacing injectors. The more I think about this situation the more it makes sense the coolant in the oil caused it.....

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I'm going to assume you meant "stealer"?

 

Has anyone noticed that repeating the buzz test will give different results? The more you rattle them, the better they will seem to be. SEEM

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I kept running the test in hopes I get get them to even think about clicking. I have had trucks in the past though sound like they got better the more times you run the test. not so on this turd.

 

I cant convince the guy this is his problem and tells me its not "logical" with how and why it happened. Whats happening is the dude is asking other people and they are giving him the normal 6.0 issue answers which obviously this one is not normal. I'm 2 seconds from telling him ok then the "logical" answer then is to show up with a wrecker and tow it away. Posted Image

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I have had this happen 4 times now after a catastrophic cooler failure. Usually on ones that eat a bunch of coolant, and all were higher mileage engines (150,000kms plus). All 4 ran fine on post repair test drive (25km plus). Some wont start then next day. one came back on the hook after driving 50 kms. The only thing i can figure is the moisture content in the oil must damage the oil side of the injector.

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Got one int the shop now, was not mixing coolant but the egr cooler was blown out and threw alot of coolant. Last sat. the tech who put the coolers in started it and ran fine in the shop-i stopped by and saw it running well at idle(it barely made it from the paking area to the bay-i drove it in). I come in monday morning and went to start it and will not start. You can't here the prcycle at all and the buzz test passes but you can't here the injectors maybe just one faint click, plug a new injector in to each plug and like a jack hammer.

I had one a while back that came in running and needed coolers, after cooler replacement it would'nt start. I replaced all injectors and it fired right up.

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Yep, i do oil and filter on all engine work, whether warrantee or customer pay. Its not worth the risk. (and i suck out and clean the hp res. on cooler jobs.)

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