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What's In Your Bay - Part VI

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Keith Browning

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Those master cyl recalls are gravy train.

 

Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line.

 

Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2.

 

First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good.

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I've been bench bleeding them and after installing having someone push down the pedal while I crack both lines simultaneously.  Doesn't take much longer but it works and I'm happy.

 

I wouldn't care if we weren't pushing aside my customers and my reputation because we can't hire a general tech.   I guess that is not my decision though

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Wait till you get one that was leaking...fill out on-line form, part numbers labor prices wait....then get a whole .3 more to replace the booster. If don't stock it you end up doing it all over.

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Wait till you get one that was leaking...fill out on-line form, part numbers labor prices wait....then get a whole .3 more to replace the booster. If don't stock it you end up doing it all over.

 

I did one like that prior to parts being available. Service support wanted pictures of the booster and the whole nine yards. It wasn't a money making proposition, and that's why I have no ill feelings toward slamming out master cylinders in 0.2 : )

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Those master cyl recalls are gravy train.

 

Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line.

 

Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2.

 

First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good.

So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle. 

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1997 7.5L On one spark plug the porcelain blew out while driving, the other one was broke by there fleet mechanic.... at least he stopped. Oh yeah I thought that it was the general consensus that stuff like this should end up in Matt's bay    :whattodo:

 

 

Plugs.jpg

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Well, my 2.7 is torn apart in one of my bays, now awaiting arrival of the non-reusable oil pan (which required LOTS of force to remove) coming from the U.S. Another job that was waiting for me to get to, a 2014 Edge water pump and phasers, originally quoted CP awhile back went AWA. The advisor wrote it up this week, informing me we have the vehicle until Friday. The RO had a parts slip stapled to it, so stupid me, thinking the parts were already ordered and have arrived, rushed to get it all apart. I went to the parts counter intending on picking up all the parts and low and behold NONE were ordered. :mad:  :mad:  :mad: WTF??? The advisor had the balls to tell me that "ordering the parts is the tech's responsibility". Then why in the fuck was I not asked to order the goddamn parts before the appointment was made to bring the friggin' car in?!!!!

 

Soooo....... now I can't get to my other projects in line with both of my bays now disabled in a manner in which the vehicles tying them up can't be pushed out.

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Those master cyl recalls are gravy train.

 

Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line.

 

Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2.

 

First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good.

So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle. 

 

 

Kind of like doing a starter on a 6.7 - it just slides out a certain way. Generally I do it with one hand easing the degas bottle toward the headlamp, and at the same time I sIide the caster cyl out of the booster. Once the bore is out ot of the booster the cylinder gets tilted on an angle and I walk it off of the studs - usually left followed by right. Installation is opposite of removal.

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Had customer bring 2013 in with jerking bucking at times. The so called diesel performance shop had been throwing parts at it. I told customer it's usually a crappie install on delete. ran self tests retrieved codes for frp and app codes. rolled under truck found dpf pressure sensor wires touching exhaust pipe. Put heat shrink on wires zip tied up off exhaust. 10 minutes

KIMG0545.jpg

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2011-2012 F-150 Ecoboost. I have 2 of these to work on, truck #2 has not had full diag. On truck 1 I am planning on doing TSB 13-8-1 (revised bottom air deflector) Does not have P0430 so am not planning on doing the Cat 
Question...Does this seem to work & should the CAC be checked for excessive moisture? I noticed that none of the local dealers have the DL3Z-2021702-A in stock but they stock the updated CAC.
I am also going to do TSB 15-0003 since the oil is overfull & the truck has too many miles for 15N05. Any hope of the TSB 15-0003 taking care of the fact that it has a sooty tailpipe & a puff of black smoke on heavy accel/cold? :shrug:

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2011-2012 F-150 Ecoboost. I have 2 of these to work on, truck #2 has not had full diag. On truck 1 I am planning on doing TSB 13-8-1 (revised bottom air deflector) Does not have P0430 so am not planning on doing the Cat 

Question...Does this seem to work & should the CAC be checked for excessive moisture? I noticed that none of the local dealers have the DL3Z-2021702-A in stock but they stock the updated CAC.

I am also going to do TSB 15-0003 since the oil is overfull & the truck has too many miles for 15N05. Any hope of the TSB 15-0003 taking care of the fact that it has a sooty tailpipe & a puff of black smoke on heavy accel/cold? :shrug:

I would follow tsb but it will probably need plugs also.

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Did plugs 70 K ago, I pulled #6(P0306) & it looked fine. I guess I should hook up my Pico... This thing only misfires @ high RPM's very randomly, usually only after highway trips. I could not get it to misfire so I hosed the CAC down then I got it to misfire on heavy accel for about 30 seconds on #6.

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Did plugs 70 K ago, I pulled #6(P0306) & it looked fine. I guess I should hook up my Pico... This thing only misfires @ high RPM's very randomly, usually only after highway trips. I could not get it to misfire so I hosed the CAC down then I got it to misfire on heavy accel for about 30 seconds on #6.

That does sound like they way the CAC acted up.

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Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident.

 

Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway.

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Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident.

 

Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway.

I agree with the plugs. I've seen a couple of these that do the same thing and plugs fixed them. Plus hotline told me these engines are very sensitive to spark plug gap.

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Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident.

 

Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway.

I agree with the plugs. I've seen a couple of these that do the same thing and plugs fixed them. Plus hotline told me these engines are very sensitive to spark plug gap.

 

Agree on the plugs had an 11 in today with 57k miles and fixed misfire with spark plugs and coil boots. The truck had not had the cac tsb done.

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Truck 2 is fixed. Plugs, COP boots & TSB 15-0003(Brown PCV & Reflash)...Oh yeah 1 coil also..It rolled off my tool cart & broke the flange above top seal...So guess who gets to eat a coil :facepalm: I just so happened to order 2 coils in just in case...I pull the first coil off the parts shelf and guess what it's broke in the same spot. So note to self do not drop those Denso style coils. :hammer:

 

Truck 1 will be back next week....still waiting on the positive battery cable end to come in, I guess Ford had to make it???

 

Thanks for all the input Tony, Tyler & Zach

 

Now I am not having much confidence in the 13-8-1 fixing the random misfire...Anybody need a $3x.xx piece of flat rubber..

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I got 3 F-series 6.0 trucks here that need coolers. One eseries bus that needs injectors and 2 vehicles that need exhaust manifolds. Ones a 4.6L 3 valve police explorer and the other a 5.4L 3 valve F-250

 

I'm fucking drowning right now. I haven't been able to stay on one job longer than a few hours at a time for weeks.

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2006 6L no base oil pressure, got ok to tear down and find the cause.

2006 6L coming in Monday for a drop in engine.

2012 on my hoist waiting for go ahead on DEF tank heater and DPF sensor.

2016 Fuel filters and winter front. 

3  Adesa Auction House(Local Ford Motor Company lease return and repo management company) units for no start 6.7L's to pick through.

Plus I need to sneak in my 2013 Escape tomorrow after work and start tearing out the turbo.

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