forddieseldoctor

That was my assumption, but I figured I'd ask anyway.

To completely and permenantly delete an IDS session: Disclaimer: This was done on a Windows 7 computer. Windows 8 and Windows 10 will be slightly different procedure for showing hidden files, but the rest should be very similar. MAKE SURE THE SESSION YOU ARE TRYING TO DELETE IS NOT ACTIVE IN IDS AND MAKE SURE IDS IS NOT CURRENTLY OPEN!!!!!! Step 1: Open IDS, open the saved session that you want to delete and then tell ids to delete the session. Close IDS once it's finished. Step 2: Open "My Computer" Step 3: Double click on the C: drive to open it. You might get a warning message stating that making any changes in there can cause damage to your computer. Just click okay to continue. Step 4: Make sure your computer is showing hidden files. To do this click on organize on the upper left corner of the window. Then click on folder and search options and then view and make sure the bullet is in front of show all files. Step 5: Select the folder labeled "Program Data" Step 6: Select the folder labeled "Ford Motor Company" Step 7: Select Folder labeled "IDS" Step 8: Select Folder labeled "Sessions" Step 9: Click on "Date Modified" at the top of the screen to change the sort order to bring the session you ended last to the top of the list. (This is why I had you open and delete the session is step 1.) Step 10: Select all of the files that have the tail of the vin you are working on. (Hold the control button while left clicking on them to select more than one at a time.) Step 11: Once you have them all selected right click on one of them and select "Delete". A message will come up asking if you want to move the selected files to the recycle bin. Select yes. Once they are moved to the recycle bin I recommend emptying the recycle bin to make sure they are gone for good. Step 12: Open IDS and start the procedure to ID the vehicle again. It should not ask you if you want to go to the previous session for that vin. If it does you did not delete it properly. Happy Session Deleting.

Why learn how to diag & fix the modern vehicle when they can just delete & chip away that evil CEL, if all else fails get a long skinny drill bit. Long skinny drill bit? What is that a reference to?

I love how every one of these recalls that "could result in vehicle stalling may increase the risk of crash". If everyone would just put down their phones and remember how to drive and not be ready to sue the crap out of someone over every little thing life would be so much better.

Don't feel bad. I got 75% for the second month in a row. Not that it matters. I'm just playing along to see how I score in the questions.

I've seen them before. But I don't remember where they are. Nor have I ever messed with them. I'll have to fire up my laptop and do a little snooping around to see if I can find them.

I got one wrong on a bunch of them last year and I still won the trip.

Did you guys get one in?

He did mention both high temperature and low temperature systems, so they must still have 2 radiators. I seems odd to have a separate system just for the fuel and transmission coolers if the CAC is air to air. I am guessing he miss read something now. I don't remember hearing that.

The on-demand webinar is out. Course #: 30N60WBROD

Hmm. I'm not keeping it so the reman will do just fine.

A new one is somewhere around $900. I was just gonna drop a reman on it and be done with it. The turbo rattles when it runs.

I must have lost my mind. I bought a 6.0 from another dealership with a blown up turbo.

Not in my bay at work. But still my project none the less. And I found this today too.

Yes. My superduty is a 2000. My dad's work van is a 97. I see lots of obs pickups flying around. We still get a bunch of older vehicles in the shop that still run eec v.

I know there is big issues with them sticking open, but I'm talking about them sticking shut or becoming restricted.

I've had 2 vehicles in the last month with gross evap leak codes stored in the pcm that have been caused by the purge valve not opening enough to draw the tank down enough when running the test. The first one was a 12 or 13 F150 with the 3.7. The second one is on an 11 Fusion that just had the recall done by another shop. Anyone else running across this? The F150 took me to school trying to find the leak. I almost put a filler neck in it, even though I couldn't find any smoke coming out.

We had one of them crawl in the lot fhe other day with drivability problems. It got towed to another shop.

I had one under warranty that hotline said was probably intermittent sticking vanes. Stuffed a turbo on it and it fixed it. I don't remember the code or the year. Just that it was on a pickup. But in this case I agree it's probably sticking.

One of our salesmen went to a training class on them a few weeks ago. There is a bunch of changes from the previous ones. And I heard a rumour from an outside source that the chassis cabs got a fairly significant boost in power.

I got enrolled a day after they posted it.

Reason number 1 you should never try to hold on to any firework once it's lit. A comercial grade 3" mortor never left the tube. The side boards were hardwood and so was the floor board that has the hole in it. It threw the loaded tube next to it 50 yards into the field.

I am. I think on the 27th in the AM session.

My guy didn't find anything. My suggestion would be to adapt it to standard 3/16 line thread and then plug it. The tiny bit of air that gets trapped should have no effect on the pedal. Plus it will eventually work it's way out.

It took hotline 26 hours to respond to an assistance request. I sent it in at 2:30 on Thursday. I didn't get a response until 4:30 on Friday. But on the flip side I actually got some usable information from them.