Mekanik

The pump was leaking past the seal behind the gear. I took the gear out to get a good look and found brass shavings between the seal and the shaft, with a little bit of brass shavings just under the pump on the engine block. I found the smoking gun. Before I took the pump out I hooked up the smoke machine to the manifold outlet to confirm the leak. I tested the branch tube and manifold with a vacuum pump to make sure it wasn't leaking. Now I just have to find a night this week to put this thing back together and bring it back to life.

That's good to know. Were you able to retrieve the broken parts from the pump? This truck is a side job, and it's turned into a little bit more than what I care to do on my own time. I really hope it's not a branch tube.

I've had one of theese too. It seemed like the right bank was affected first.

I saw something like this an eternity ago. It was a T-Bird with a 3.8L that had head gaskets replaced. There was a bolt difference, and the guy doing it was given the wrong head bolts. They were too long and must have cracked the block, causing coolant to leak from one of the bellhousing bolt holes. It really looks like the oil is coming from the belhousing bolt hole.

Aaron, I had an IDI a long time ago that was doing the same thing. I had air in the fuel lines due to a rusted fuel pick up that was leaking a little bit of fuel too. What I did to diagnoss it was put a piece of clear tubing on the injector pump return fitting in line with the return hose.

I'm working on a 2004 F350 with an early build engine. The engine won't build HP oil pressure and with an air hose on the test port on the back of the pump cover I can hear a very large air leak. I don't hear a change in the noise with the IPR energized and I already put an IPR in the truck. I also removed both valve covers and removed the oil lines and plugged the fittings with the proper service tools. So the only things I’m air testing is the pump, branch tube and the manifold that's mounted on top of the pump. Now on other vehicles I have seen leaking O-rings on top of the oil manifold (on top of the pump) where it goes into the pump cover, but that was a much smaller leak. Has anyone ever seen a large leak from the pump area on an early build? Also, can the branch tube be replaced without removing the heads? I can't find a service procedure on it. I've replaced branch tubes on late build engines, but I didn't know if there was something different with the early build branch tubes.

I remember seeing a picture of that.

What does the housing/front cover look like? Is anyone missing a Torx bit? I like to live by the motto "Leave no tool behind!" but I have seen Torx bits in the bottom of oil pans and heard tales or Torx bits left behind in the bowels of a 6.0L without any damage being done. Now if a Torx bit were to break, then pieces could end up going through the screen and cause this damage. That's what I would suspect. Otherwise, a Torx bit that isn’t broken won’t fit through the oil pump pick-up screen.

Holy crap!!!

+1 You would think the engineers would want to dissect this particular one themselves. Especially if there haven't been any other failures. Remember, we don't want these engines to never fail.

ROFL That is the funniest thing ever!!! I've got one here with a p164A too. I guess we'll just wait for Ford to figure it out.

I had the same exact concern, and the cause was Ford's server being down. Try it again and see what happens. I do almost all of the SYNC and My Touch in our shop and it can be a real pain in the ass. Also, follow the procedure with your IDS to make sure it is set up properly for SYNC programming. It will take 30-40 minutes the first time you do it, but it's worth it.

I’m working on a 2006 hybrid Escape. The concern is that intermittently the brake pedal will go to the floor and the vehicle is hard to stop. I did a self test of the ABS module and I had three DTC’s: C1479, C1481, and U2023. There is not even a pinpoint test for the C1479, C1481 DTCs. The shop manual just says to replace the HCU/ ABS module if the codes come back, which they did. C1479, C1481 are plausibility faults indicating a difference in expected pressure, typically a result of a hydraulic problem. The U2023 is a network DTC. Well this seemed simple enough, so I replaced the HCU/ABS module and performed the arduous task of bleeding the new HCU. One week later and 200 miles the vehicle is back with the same concern and the same DTC’s, and I noticed something strange on the oasis report that I didn’t notice a week earlier. This vehicle had a HCU/ABS module replaced at another dealer for the SAME DTC’s one year ago. I contacted hotline and they really weren’t much help. I’ve talked to three engineers there and they all tell me something different. One engineer told me that the rear brakes hanging up could cause this and if they are okay then replace the master cylinder. I did go through the rear brakes and they are as free as a bird right now but the problem happened again. Another engineer tells me that the master is split diagonally and a failed master would never cause two codes for the rear brakes. I was visited by an FSE yesterday, and this is where is gets REALLY bad. The FSE tells me how unusual it is for a vehicle like this to need three HCU’s and I correct him, telling him it’s only had two. The reason he knows this is because he went out to another dealer for THIS vehicle for the SAME problem with the SAME DTC’s!!! At THAT time he recommended a replacement of the HCU and the wiring harness because the connector that plugs into the HCU had brake fluid on it. Well I checked that and it’s dry as a bone just like the connectors under the master cylinder that I suspected might be contaminated with brake fluid. The FSE left yesterday without giving me any direction to go in. He’s going to get back to me after doing some research. One thing that’s got me thinking is the U2023. The FSE tells me the network being down won’t cause the other DTC’s, but I’m thinking of maybe overlaying the network. When I did the bleed procedure I really didn’t have any problems other than the master cylinder cap leaking. When it would have me bleed the LF front caliper fluid would come out of the LF caliper, and the same thing for the other calipers. This makes me believe that I do have the lines in the correct position. Besides, this truck will go 200 miles without setting any DTC’s. Does ANYONE have any ideas on this one???

I've seen that move. The guy saved a ton of time by not removing the rockers from the heads. The truck ran terrible and three new injectors didn't even make a difference. About a week later the truck was fixed when he replaced three pushrods that were bent like crazy. for the record I ALWAYS turn the crank to the propper position before re-installing the heads.

Me too; the tip came apart and luckily I was able to find the little ball on the end and the retainer. What did you do differently to prevent it from happening again?

How the hell does this happen? This is about my 50th head gasket job on a 6.0L and I’ve NEVER had any problems like this before. I always double check the placement of the push reds, rockers and valve bridges, even on this one but obviously not good enough. Has anyone else here done this? I wonder if I were to crank the engine over before I put the oil rails on if I would have caught it, because the compression didn’t sound right when I went to start this truck after I got it together.

Has anyone done the repair kit yet? I did one yesterday(and the afternoon before). I didn't think it was really that bad. We got some paint brushes to use instead of painting rustproofing on with an acid brush. That made it a lot easier.

That waas terrible, but I think they changed the test because the last guy to take the class in our shop passed it on the first try; and he is less than brillant. I didn't have any problems with the SYNC class, but I do ALL the SYNC work in our shop.

What you said in your first post was very logical and good. It's hard to think like that when your upset about the truck coming back for the second time, with the looming possibility of having to take the transmission apart again. Thanks again!

Yes, I took a very good look at the bulkhead connector going into the transmission and found a connector pin that was pushed back. Earlier when I checked the wiring, I was looking at my pids while wiggling the wiring and connector. I guess some times we just need to take things apart (again) and take a very close look. Thanks for standing on the sideline cheering for me.

I'm working on a 2008 F550 with a 6.4L and a Torqueshift. This started when I rebuilt this transmission. It was previously rebuilt by another tech who replaced the reverse clutch. Somehow, the needle bearing behind the reverse planet came apart. I replaced the reverse planet carrier, sun shell, and ring gear with the reverse clutch. At this time there were no DTC's, it just had a bad noise. I get done with the transmission and it works great, no DTC's. Everything is great until the wrench light comes on and it downshifts into a lower gear. This is 230miles after I rebuilt the transmission. The only DTC I had was P1702 for TR circuit intermittent. I went through the pinpoint and tested the wiring from the trans to the TCM and everything was fine. I put a TR sensor in it and it seemed good. There wasn't any metal in the pan, so that was a relief. One week later, the truck is doing the same thing. Only now I also have a P0706 and P0707 in addition to the P1702. These are TR frequency fault and TR low input. Has anyone ever run into this before? I really don’t think I could have pinched the harness inside the transmission. I did take a look at that last week.

Well I drove the truck for a week with a fuel pressure guage hooked up to the shrader valve. I never was able to get the problem to happen agian, so I gave it back to the customer today. We'll see what happens...

I've got a truck with a P120f. I got it to act up once and the FRP would vary 3551psi. I'm not sure what's wrong with it yet, but I put a HP fuel pump in this truck a month ago.

On Friday I helped out at the school's Halloween Party dressed as Abe Lincoln. Friday night I went to a neighbor's party, and on Sunday I took my wife and kids trick-or-treating. We love Halloween and me and my wife always dress.

Yes, the DEF fluid was milky in color. I drained it into an empty DEF bottle and could see the fuel additive on top. Even after letting it sit for several days it was still milky. I was thinking it might completely seperate, but it didn't.