Brad Clayton

2008 F-550 getting a running complete 6.4 and the cab cant be removed. <clap clap clap>

That's a doozy. Is it cracking in such a way that things are leaking?

That's the way me and the gang did our first cab off, everybody thought I was calling them over to my bay to push a vehicle! Next thing you know the cab is off and the motor is out. JK

Cool, but I just got pulled over for no seat belt, so I'm in a foul mood toward anything civil.

I have never been one to maliciously break a vehicle in the name of making time, but I have witnessed it. I just can't sleep at night if I don't try and do my best. This is why I am a break even flat rater. It gets very frustrating when a job goes south because there is usually no wiggle room on the ticket to make it up. The dealer has always covered any of my fuck ups. This is one of the reasons I like the dealer environment. They have deep pockets and can afford to undo something that I accidentally did.We all make a shit ton of money for the owners of these dealerships and they should have our backs.The most memorable incident was the day I wrecked a customers car.....I had just put in my two weeks notice. I got a ticket courtesy of the South Carolina state troopers and the dealer paid the claim to fix the car.

I forgot you were dealing with an Econoline, that changes things a bit. Could call on draining the oil and filter to look for internal engine failure. It's alot easier to push a complete vehicle out while waiting on an approval than it is to push one out in a million pieces.

Like this?

You hit the nail on the head!

Proposed payouts.

Glad to hear it's fixed. Sometimes when I'm not a 100% sure, it's like a game show when I plug it in and turn the key on. It's nice to go home a winner!

When the shop is dead, it's tough to fill the hours of the day.

Gonna go with Keith on this one. You'll probably find a bent or misplaced push rod, usually caused by a sticky valve. I have replaced push rods with no problems down the road, and I have replaced them only to find the valves just wont cooperate.

I was wondering if anyone would catch that.

It appears that a fuel pressure gauge would have to verify that one was updated.

Yeah she's all there for sure. They want you to use the engine hoist to remove the torque converter. That bad boy weighs a metric "shit" ton.

You saw the pictures that got leaked onto Facebook? It's not my fault.....

At least the independents have the 8 hour cold soak option. Can you imagine Auto Zone telling somebody they have to leave their truck in the parking lot over night after they get their free battery replacement?

It seems things change everyday, what was once a mundane no brainer had now been updated. This is from the shop manual for a 2012 F-150.

Okaaayy, now that my parade has been cancelled due to yellow rain, if I were to pop the hood on a 6.0 and if I saw the above reg housing, I would not consider putting in an updated one.

Easy way to spot an updated fuel pressure regulator. Now if there was only a way to spot an updated STC fitting.

This was a good one. Truck came in with a complaint of windows inop. The truck also had to be jump started to get to the shop. I got it and was instructed to check for a draw on the system as the battery was just replaced. I checked the windows while the battery was refilling and noticed the rear switch led's were lit up with the key out. Next thing I noticed is the rear windows worked all the time. There was indeed a draw and I started pulling fuses, in the power window area. I was able to pinpoint the problem to a shorted circuit to power. Further diagnosis led to a faulty BCM. I am not one to jump on a module replacement band wagon, so I dug into the module to have a little look see. The "hot" bus bar in the BCM is bent just a smidge and laying on all the solder joints to the right.

For every one customer pay story like that, I have fixed 20 or 30 under warranty that only cost the owner 100 bucks.

As the old saying goes, your never too old to learn something new. As I have gotten older, I have gotten more brittle, and I basically don't want to crawl around on top of diesel engine. I have been removing the front wheels and jacking the rear of the truck up forever now in an effort to make the engine may more accessible from the flat of my feet. My new shop is not very truck friendly an requires a floor jack and creeper to do any truck work. I had to put injectors in bank 1 so I only removed the right side 19.5 wheel and tire and lowered it down. I was able to reach everything but struggled to get the valve cover out. I finally realized that the body and engine had twisted and closed up the gap to the evap box. I had to replace another bank 1 injector on a different truck afterwards and it dawned on me that if I dropped the driver side down only, then the opposite effect would occur in relation to the engine and evap box. There was so much room that I could get a Snap on torx socket on the lower oil rail bolts. It was nice and refreshing and I wish I knew about it a decade ago. Of course I probably wouldn't know about still if I hadn't moved to this ill equipped shop.