Brad Clayton

I haven't put anything up in a while and I haven't worked on a diesel in about 3 months, so I put up this trans job I did a while back.

TSB 12-4-8 covers a loss of 2nd and 4th gear involving 2007 and 2008 Escape and Mariner with a CD4E transmission This is the part number of the kit with all the necessary parts to replace the 2-4 band which is common to break in these transmissions. This kit has enough parts to cover both the 4 and 6 cylinder and all 3 servo rod lengths. Needless to say there will be parts left over. I do these in chassis instead of removing the transmission. One trick I like to employ when removing a left or right axle from a front wheel drive vehicle, is to lift the vehicle at a slant. This prevents the fluid from leaking out while the axle is out. To perform this job the left axle must be removed so the trans will drop low enough for the pump to clear the inner fender. I lift the vehicle higher on the left side than the right to help contain the fluid while the left axle is out. This also helps keep the trans level as the mounts are removed and the trans is lowered down to clear the inner fender. It looks odd from a distance and co-workers tend to make humorous comments about lifting abilities and such. The trans needs to be lowered down on the driver’s side and the axle will hit the subframe, preventing this, so it is removed. The cooler lines are disconnected and capped off, if left connected to the trans they can be stressed from stretching. Under the hood, the upper trans mount needs to be accessed. I remove the bracket from the mount and the transmission. Next I remove the left mount and allow the powertrain to tilt down as far as it can (the exhaust will hit the subframe on the passenger side preventing it from tilting too far). The next step is to remove the servo cover, servo, TSS sensor, cooler line bracket, and the pump itself. The pump must be slide hammered out and the trans internals can have a tendency to come out with the trans on its side like this. To prevent this, the servo cover is removed and the band applied manually to keep a tight grip on the trans innards. The shops servo cover remover did not want to be found so I improvised as shown. The band is being applied with a punch and dead man stand (screw jack). The pump is removed and set aside and the band is removed. This band was just barely broken. Everything is cleaned up and the parts are checked to make sure they are in their correct spot especially the pump drive shaft, it must be fully seated in the torque converter. The new band is installed and the punch is used to put just enough pressure to center the drum assy. The drive shaft is oriented so the pump will slide in without binding. The pump bolts must be used to draw the pump into the case and if the pump driveshaft is not lined up correctly things can break. It helps to have an assistant turn the crankshaft if needed, to help the shaft work its way into the pump. The servo and cover is reinstalled, everything is degreased, vehicle reassembled and the fluid topped off. This Escape is ready to roam the countryside for another day.

Yeah, you had a photo of it on here but it was a photobucket account or such which has been shut down since.......and we mocked you about being your first day on the job or something along those lines.

I would think a buzz test would reveal some under valve cover harness issues, no?

http://home.paulschou.net/tools/xlate/You should send Sean your doo-dad on gun control!

So true, my wife always asks what's wrong when I don't start her '07 Edge on the first go.

Fuckin' A right! I was gettin' some strange looks in the waiting room whilst I was bustin' a gut reading that article.

Puttin my money on blown head gaskets: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=40768&page=1

Merry Christmas!

With the ching you make, you can just pay somebody to fix your shit!

That's about what I was thinking.

7 is still a low enough number to keep looking for the problem that is plaguing this truck. A quick filter check can also help to rule out an imploding fuel tank. If it's real bad, you'll get some bits like this: I doubt that's your problem though.

I'm not saying you have further engine damage than rocker arms. The last one I worked on only needed rocker arms (it got a complete set). But don't leave yourself open for other problems. I would make sure that they understand that the rockers may not be the end all to their problems. Always good to leave it open ended on a 64. Worst case scenario that I was talking about, truck ran decent but smoked sometimes. Ended up with 4 bent rods all reading no lower than 350 psi. Green arrow tells the tale that the leak down test wouldn't. Resulting contact with crankshaft counter weight. Management made me repair this engine and put it back into service.

I don't want to be a negative nelly, but every 64 I have worked on with 350 psi compression on cylinder 8 or 2 ended up being a bent rod.Usually a cylinder leakage test will not catch one of these rods that is "barely" bent.

Holy shit, I would say so, 400 bucks for what Keith has pictured on page one.

Recheck that FICM, I have had more than 1 that was bad right out of the box.

There not that bad as long as you have a nice set up to get the subframe out of the way. At my dealer in Vermont, we had an old tran bench on wheels and I would lower the van down to it and zip out the subframe bolts, roll it out of the way and everything was easy peasy.

We gotta guy here at Hastings Ford that can do 4 of these in one 8 hour workday.

Now that I think about it that deal you have there Keith is the way to go on a 6.0L. Just not enough room for a bridge style puller. I have only used mine on the 7.3L's and got lucky enough to access 6.0L's with a slide hammer.

That is pretty snazzy, and the 6.0L taps are much more durable to have to cut into those hard ass cups, but I wouldn't use the tap as a puller on a 7.3L.

Oh yeah, I made one of those way back when the 7.3 DIT first debuted. It works for the 6.0's also. Don't modify the tap, use the puller that threads into the cup after tapping it: I went to my local machine shop and got a threaded rod the size of the slide hammer threads, had them make me a u shaped deal (bridge) that would sit on the head, put the threaded rod through that and into the puller screw, then pull it all out with a nut on the top of the "bridge". I can have a pic of it in the morning, quite a simple process actually.

It's good to know how to get in there though, in case the cab can't come off.

That has been out so long that Ford recommends using it to remove cab bolts. There is a reference to it in the shop manuals.

I see yet another use of the stretchy belt.