Brad Clayton

I wonder why it has to be number 4 and not number 8. <shrug>

Had one come in one day after a rough day during mud season, and I had to wash the top of the tank for a couple of minutes just to start to see the def pump!

C.R.E.A.M.

seriously that sucks. That's always a tough one to explain to the managerial types who just can't grasp that things break anytime or place.

Salt and road brine. That connector sits right in front of the def tank and behind the fuel tank. Crap just sits on top of there.

I seem to recall over on the message boards, people having trouble with the HPFP crapping out after swapping it over on a long block replacement.

2011 F-250 mil on (DEF related codes) This 6.7L powered vehicle came in with the check engine light on and no noticeable drivability issues. IDS pulled a few codes shown here. I usually like to follow the code that is currently exhibiting a fault. In this case it is P208C. I always review how the system works and look at the EVTM to see what is involved before diving in. An easy trick for looking up codes is to use “control + F” a find box will pop up and then type in the code you want to find. The code will appear on the screen and you won’t have to scroll through all the codes. This feature works well for SLTS also when looking for overlapping labor ops. The code leads to pinpoint test RG which will basically check the reductant pump, circuits, and PCM. I am going to step back from the pinpoint test for a bit and look at the EVTM. The setup is pretty basic and you have power, ground, and control. It’s time to do a visual inspection of the truck. The spare tire is dropped out of the way to get better access to the DEF pump. The pump and wiring were inspected for damage from road debris and chaffing of any kind, everything looked ok. On a side note, the pump can be changed without dropping the tank. I wanted see what was happening since the problem was occurring at this time so I employed the dosing measurement test. I like to use it for powering the DEF pump because the screen is nice and easy to see and it’s a quick tool to use. As seen here, the pump builds “0” pressure. There is obviously a problem with the system. I grabbed my meter and checked for power and ground to the pump. I chose not to load test the wires at the moment because I am just trying to get some basic numbers at this time. A dosing measurement test was reran to power the pump and this is the reading observed. It seems very low and I am not sure what it should be. It’s time to consult the OBD2 theory and operation manual to see how this pump is activated. This description states that code P208C will set if the control voltage is below 3.5 volts. I am at half that so here is the problem. Looking at the EVTM again, there is one connector C139 between the PCM and DEF pump. I disconnected the connector to rule it out before moving on and noticed some corrosion. Further inspection and these offending corroded pins were removed and replaced from the connector on both the female and male sides. The system was reassembled and brought back on-line and this was the voltage reading while dosing…. …..and I now have plenty of PSI in the DEF plumbing. This was a bit of a tricky vehicle that took a little thinking outside the norm to keep from replacing unnecessary parts. The vehicle was back on the road and fixed right the first time and the customer was “completely” satisfied.

You are correct.

Did a HPFP gasket yesterday that didn't have the protective convolute on the wiring harness. Last time I did one of these was way back in 2007. I figured they would have all been weeded out and updated by now. The job went pretty smooth even in the new shop I am working at, which has the worst equipment I have ever seen.

Jeezum Crow, I guess 6.4 water in fuel system/gasoline contamination issues was just a warm up to these friggin things.

I spoke a little quickly, still got 2 months before my special day.

Quote: On this day in 1970 and 3 I was turning 2 years old.

My wife owns an Edge, and loves it. The only drawback I have with it, is it has a few blind spots. But then again all the new vehicles that are shaped like it have them. As far as Kia goes, stay away if you live in a rust state. Unless you only plan on owning it for a year, them things rot out before you can make a dozen payments.

There she is, I wonder if you could charge an empty convertor with this thing with the engine off?

Yessir, if you want it to.

Was reading the new issue of Frontline today, as there ain't shit to do at my new job, and came across this interesting little nugget: The new Fusion that is equipped with the quick start/shutdown feature has an electric aux trans pump to keep line pressure in the trans when the engine is dead at a red light. The stuff that these guys are coming out with is getting more and more........uh, interesting.

Clamp off all the brake lines at the front calipers and rear axle and see if the pedal holds. This will help you isolate the source of your low pedal.

I wish my new dealer would follow suite.

ROTARY is the only way to go!!!!!!! Period! 15k or 18k will be a blessing for your shop. I am down here in NC and been to 3 different dealers and not a Rotary lift to be found and all the crap they have.....I wouldn't be comfortable working under a Focus. These friggin dealers "save" money by buying some inferior pile of crap lift and it doesn't take much to chip in a little more and get the real deal to begin with that will last much longer, be much safer, and make the shop more money in the long run.

I have noticed that the Fusions program way faster than the Escapes do.

The answer to the thread title would be ALEX.

I needed this thread today, I was down in the dumps and it cheered me right up.

Uh, don't remember now, 3 hours or so at my slow pace.