Brad Clayton

I really hope Ford doesn't try to one up Dodge's new 1500.....it has air suspension. We've all had enough of that, so let's let that one go there Ford.

I want to reiterate that this would not have been an idea for me if I hadn't spoke with Leon. I was having a major brain fart on how to hook the chain up. He set me straight and it was easy peasy after that. It makes total sense to center the chain in the motor and I can't believe I was having trouble coming up with the idea. This is how I used to pick 7.3's out of E boxes, it is how we lift 6.7's now, ect.

I'm a little apprehensive about laying over that radiator, she is fragile enough as is.

You should have seen me trying to find a Lincoln manual in a Ford dealer! It didn't happen.

Me and another guy lifted it out. This is the way Ford originally designed it to be removed way back in the day. I didn't need to replace anything, just needed the mess out of the way. It's actually not that heavy with 1 person on each side.

Did my first one today, didn't like it. Maybe they will grow on me. By the way I took a bit of an antifreeze bath in the process, did I mention it was my first job of the day and I had no uniforms to change into? Don't ask for any details.

Here is just a couple of quick photos I took of the 64 with cab on. I can't get them into the DTS at the moment so I am importing them from Photobucket and I will move them permanently later. The chain is bolted down with the 2 large turbo pedestal bolts. This thing comes out easier than a 6.0L, it doesn't even touch the firewall insulation! I've got this cab lifted with 2x4's so it's only up about 3 1/2 inches. My pan is dragging a bit on the number 1 cross member. I put a piece of cardboard down on the way back in. Dunnage tops make an awesome temporary work bench! Somebody order up a cooling stack?

As much as they have probably invested in these things, it will be going forward. Remember the Contour? They forced that thing on us for a 5 long years before giving in.

I guess these bad boys are finally coming out of warranty,eh?

It was a North America thing, Ford put a message on the front page of FMC apologizing for any inconveniences that were caused by some of the really bad connections and outages.

I was watchin' TV with the wife and a Ford commercial come on and I couldn't make out a Fusion from a Focus. She weren't too impressed seeings how I work on them all day. Man I'm gettin' old.

Sounds like a train wreck on the diesel option.

My box of plugs and caps is currently riding around in the floor board of my truck. Being the new guy in a new to me dealership means I just can't trust leaving them out for all to paw through. I have been collecting these bad boys for close to 15 years and it's value is right up there with my children's lives.

I've racked my brain trying to find any info on this, and I remember doing the flashes way back for wif problems, but I can't find anything on it. Ford changes shit from minute to minute now a days with all this fancy shmancy internet stuff. Just check any online shop manual and it will be quite apparent. Here lately, any wif problem I run into ends up being a gooped up sensor.

2011 Ford Edge with a faulty door ajar switch requires the latch to be replaced as the ajar switch is integrated with the latch.The driver’s door panel is removed first. There are a total of three Phillips head screws, two at the bottom of the door panel and one on the upper front of the panel. Next the window switch is removed. It is hinged at the front so it needs to be pried out at the rear of the bezel (red arrow). This allows access to the 10mm bolt that needs to be removed (yellow arrow). Next the upper portion of the door pull cover needs to be removed. It is hinged at the bottom so it gets pried out from the top to access the 10mm bolt in the recess (red arrow). Now the panel can be removed from the door. It has regular push pins so it gets pried straight off the door and then lifted off the belt line molding. The door lock control and the power mirror switch need to be unplugged and then the panel is free from the door. There are two grommets in the end of the door. The lower grommet gets removed (red arrow) to reveal a T-25 screw. This screw gets loosened just enough to allow removal of the key cylinder cover, do not fully remove the screw. Next remove the 3 door latch bolts while working at the rear of door. Now the door handle can be removed by pulling out on the rear of the handle and sliding in the direction of the red arrow. Next remove this torx screw completely with a T-27. There are 2 grommets covering the bolts that hold the window glass to the regulator. The rear bolt is just to the right of the inside door handle cable pass through and the front bolt is just above the door speaker. Use a T-30 to LOOSEN the bolts just enough to allow the window glass to disengage from the regulator. Do not remove the bolts as the regulator has a clamp style retaining device for the window. Now the 10 bolts can be removed so that the door module can be removed from the door. I suggest using hand tools or a cordless drill that does not have an impact action (unlike what's pictured here). The riv-nuts that these fasteners thread into can break loose very easily. If this happens they will spin and the fastener will not come out. Make sure the window is completely to the top of the run. I like to use painters tape to keep the window up. This window is down about 2 inches as seen by the red arrow and will make it very difficult to get the door module clear of the door. Two reasons the window needs to be fully up, it will allow easier access to unplug the door key pad harness and it will allow the door lock cylinder to clear the door more easily so the cylinder can stay in its housing. At this point the door module is out of the door but it is still tethered by the wiring harness. I am only replacing the latch so the door module can stay where it is and the harness does not need to be disengaged from the “A” pillar to allow full removal of the door module. The new latch is on the left. The old latch is already removed and the new one is being installed. This photo shows the retaining mechanism. The latch slides in the groove (red circle) and slides into the tab and clips in (red square). But before the latch is secured to the door module, the inside door handle cable gets hooked up. Next the inside door lock rod (red arrow) needs to be “threaded” into the top hole of the latch and then the latch can be secured to the door module. Then the outside door handle rod (yellow arrow) can be engaged in the green retaining clip. The latch electrical connector gets plugged in. The key cylinder rod gets “threaded” into the latch and then clipped into the cylinder. Now the vehicle can be reassembled and one trick I employ to facilitate the process is to use the key as a lever which will help to align the hooks with the sheet metal as shown. The rest is just the reverse of disassembly. I check each electrical component for proper operation and check all handles and the key, clean the window and release the vehicle.

F-250's have the smaller shoe. From the shop manual:

Pictures please!

I'm on the RTTP mailing list and just got the latest hotsheet today. This was one of the items for sale for 20 bucks. I think I am going to order some, I broke a clip on a "A" pillar trim panel and it just laughed at the super glue I tried to fix it with.

Good deal lucille! I like when I get to the end of the dark tunnel and experience the "wallah" moment.

Now that is saying something! Yes, out of the frying pan, into the fire. I can not even begin to tell you how much I HATE those cars! I know I have made loads more $$$ working on diesels than one ever could on those cars ! The 6.0 paid for my house, and the 6.4 paid for my cottage. I can't say that for the LS! Amen to that, brother.

I have to give a big thanks to Leon (lmorris) for help with this project. I don't think I will ever remove a 6.4 cab again for engine removal after following his advise. Pictures to come soon.

Amen to that, I pull the cab on F-150's to do them.

Fun times for the "corrosion" states. I got away just in time.

There once was a mechanic who was quite content. This mechanic worked at a Ford Lincoln Mercury dealership and all was quiet on the home front. Then, one day, a new model of Lincoln rolled in the door. This vehicle was dubbed the LS6 or LS8. What a complete pile of garbage this thing was. The mechanic had to replace a couple of motors, some trannys, numerous driveshafts, countless righthand exhaust manifolds, and don't even mention the idea of that idiotic hydraulic cooling fan system. It seems this vehicle shared a few things with Jaguar and that explained all the troubles. Well this mechanic did what he could to avoid the LS as much as possible. He even relocated to the Northeast and to his delight there were no LS's to speak of. As a matter of fact he spent 10 long years in the Northeast and never saw or worked on an LS. Life was quite easy in that respect and the vehicle was actually erased from his mind. All those earlier years of anquish were like a bad dream that had been awakened from with warm rays of sunshine enveloping and comforting this mechanic. Now we fast forward to today and this mechanic is back in the South and guess what? These friggin cars are all over the place down here. The nightmare is being relived and it's in full color. There are at least 6 of these damn things that roll in the dealership doors every month. These cars are not pristine and they are in serious disarray. They always end up in this mechanics bay after everyone and their brother have molested the hell out of the cars and thrown in the towel. So the horrors of the past live on and it seems these Lincolns will never die. This mechanic would dare say it looks as if they may be regenerating.......kinda like a zombie apacolypse?