mchan68

I have a slightly higher inford access level than most techs. My STARs access is at manager level, and I can view CuDL Reports on my level.

Holy shit. SIX CuDL files open in this last month that passed. I was just reading through some of them. I'm not sure if I should post the details of the CuDL files.

This is comic relief for me:

Funny you should mention this. I think this particular truck is being used as a grocery getter judging by the amount of carbon I had to clean out of the intake when I had it all apart for the coolers. At this point, I've ruled out the workmanship factor (namely mine), due to the fact that everything came apart easy and went back together without a struggle. The only thing that makes me uncomfortable about closing the RO is due to the fact that I haven't done anything since bringing it back to the shop to grab the IDS and wait for the symptom to reappear. We all know that problems don't just fix themselves, RIGHT?

Hmmmmm. And just how in the hell would you know this?

Status Update: Ripped the downpipe off at the cat. No problems there. The monolith inside appears intact. Pull the turbo out and apart (in record time). No probs there. You CAN'T screw up re-installing the vanes, so no problems there. The cam pivot moves nice and free. Sooooo, back together it goes. This time, I get my apprentice to "toggle" VGT duty cycle with the solenoid out, but plugged in. No probs there. The solenoid seems to respond to commands. Get it up and running. Vehicles drives as smooth as a whistle AGAIN (like it did Saturday), up until full operating temperature is reached, and then the bullshit begins AGAIN!!!! Boost gauge pegs at about 25 psi, but won't get out of its own way, blowing PLUMES of black as I attempt to accelerate and turbo farting very loudly when I release throttle. Okay, so I get it back into the shop. Yank out the IDS and very quickly determine the air management tests fails on the open command. No probs there either. We all know that an EGR system not functioning can cause a 6.0L to fall flat on its face. So, in a new valve goes. Life is good, up until it gets back up to operating temperature, yet AGAIN. Rerun the air management test. This time it passes!!!! This time, with the apprentice riding shotgun with IDS and all PIDs loaded up and waiting for him to hit that magic "record" button (we don't have a VDR in our shop), we go on yet another road test. We must've wasted at least a good hour and a half and 30 kms. repeating SEVERAL WOT throttle acceleration events, and no problems found!!!!! My service manager doesn't have the time of day for me, and this is one of those situations where I don't feel comfortable releasing the vehicle back to the customer. You guys know what's going to happen, right? My manager is just going to tell me to let the customer have back. He's going to take it, and it's going to do it again, and I'm a BAD technician!!!!

An open empty bottle of friction modifier under the toolbox, buried right up against the wall would probably be more effective.

Okay, how do I begin this one? Got myself an '06 F-350 2WD dually that darkened my doorstep that overheated, requiring the customer to top the coolant with two full gallons. It wasn't until late Thursday that I was able to get to it and roll it into my bay. After some of the usual testing per 09-08-03 I quickly determined that a set of coolers were needed, so I managed to rip it apart to the point where I could dig into it and finish it Friday. Fast forward to Friday morning when I took the turbo apart and noticed the unison ring damaged, as well as the shaft seal with very obvious oil breaching into the exhaust end of things, confirmed by the excess play in the shaft. Okay, I was just able to get the order in for a CHRA for the afternoon order, so I thought great, I might as well carry on with whatever I can finish up with, until the CHRA arrives. Fast forward to the afternoon when the order was supposed to arrive. Somehow, someone at Ford screwed up because it didn't arrive (and I saw the parts guy putting it in for the order). Okay, just great. So this job isn't going to get paid out because I'm not going to be able to complete it (Friday is the cut-off for the pay period following). I was then informed that it would arrive this morning. Soooooooo, I roll into work this morning (on my unscheduled Saturday to work) to find a box on my bench with part number 5C3Z-9G489-AARM sitting there. I assemble the CHRA and get it all buttoned up, and fired up. This thing runs smooth as any 6.0L will run when I fire it up. I go to road test it. It runs fine until I get to the next corner and it begins to fall flat on its face and turbo fart really loudly to the point where everyone I pass turns their head. The boost gauge pegs out at 25 psi but has ZERO balls. I get this fucking thing back into the shop, minus a left/rear hub cap that fell off during my brief "road test". I now have ODDTCs P0299, P1408 and P2263!!! WTF?!!!! I had no problem assembling CHRA. The cam pivot moved very freely (I vaguely recall a few posts about bad-out-of-box CHRAs). Now the fucking thing is too hot to disassemble, so I won't be able to get back to it until Monday. Just great!!! Sorry for the long sob story. I needed to vent.

Keith PLEASE invite him!!!!

Aftermarket alarm/remote starter?

You can add me to list of techs who have only ever cut ONE, and that would be the first one for me. I think by now, it should be very clear cut and dry what the answer is.

The 6.7L uses a circular shaped bell housing bolt pattern that's completely exclusive to that particular engine. The 6.2L however, shares the same bolt pattern as the 4.6/5.4/6.8L V8 and V10 engines, which to me means there HAS to be two different transmission cases that are engine application specific. What I am curious about though, is whether or not there will be: A. a PARK selector position on these F-650/F-750 versions, and B. whether or not there will be different ratios than the F-250 through F-550 versions. It never did mention whether or not it will mated to manual either.

I second that!!!! Pretty please Keith?

http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=32925

I just priced both out yet again. Whole FICMs are plenty available, but still no stock on half FICMs. Prices are still the same as I last posted above. Is it different for you folks in the U.S.?

First of all, I would like to give Bruce a HUGE thanks for the PDF files. They helped a lot. It turned out that speed #1 was due to an open in the resistor itself. But to restore function to speeds #3 and #4, I had to repair a corroded connection between the resistor and the control head under the main battery junction box. I wish there were more I could contribute to this forum to assist others. A special thanks goes out to Keith as well, for providing us with this venue!!!

I've done TWO so far. Not bad for a guy that hardly sees Super Duty trucks eh?

Yes, a good upgrade on a 2003 engine would be to change the front cover and water pump to the newer model year versions. The 2003 engines use a 95mm impeller if I'm not mistaken, while the newer ones use a 105mm.

Okay, I'm not sure where else to post this, so here it goes: On the vehicle listed in the thread title, the blower speed works only on #2. Speeds #1, #3 and #4 are inop. I plead guilty to jumping the gun in calling a blower motor resistor. Replaced the reistor new from GM, and the same thing happens. Speed #2 is the only speed working. Without a wiring diagram available, I checked the wires on the blower motor resistor connector and found good V-BATT on the thick red and thick black wires. There are four colours, light blue, orange, yellow and beige. The same four coloured wires are on the back of one of the HVAC control head connectors, which happens to be an eight wire connector (of which four are identically coloured to the resistor connector in the engine compartment). Orange, yellow and beige check out. Light blue appears to be open. So I overlay it, and now restore function on speeds #2 and #3. So, as things now stand, I have managed to restore function on speeds #1, #2 and #3 with the new resistor plugged and the light blue wire overlaid (only #2 and #3 work with the old resistor plugged in and light blue overlaid). I "borrowed" another HVAC control head off another used vehicle of similar model year with the same result (this one works on speed #4). Is there anyone here, who is familiar GM HVAC systems? Vehicle is a manual A/C system if it matters, by the way. This is exactly why I hate working on off-make vehicles

We've sold one too. Only thing is, the tech that did the PDI failed to take it out of Transport Mode from what I understand.

I have yet to DRIVE one, let alone service one.

I had a truck that suffered catastrophic failure of both coolers once that took out SIX of eight injectors once. Like you, I couldn't believe THAT many injectors failed all at once.

Repeat the buzz test one by one, switching the injector to each connector. If it clicks on all eight connectors that you plug it into returning a PASS every time, it needs all eight injectors as hard as it is to believe.