mchan68

Were they '03 model year pumps? How did you determine they were bad? Was there anything you could see that was visibly wrong with any of them?

I may end up doing just that in the morning.

Well, after putting a new pump and discharge tube in it, I drove it out of the shop and the fuckin' thing quit on me DEAD as I exited the dealer lot. Tow it back into my bay with IDS (and the usual no-start PIDs accessed) connected, and very quickly determine ZERO ICP pressure. WTF? Bearing in mind, this thing ran smooth for about 45 minutes in my bay after the repair. I even verified the new pump output before complete re-assembly. After the new pump was installed I saw ICP_DESD reading 2300 psi, while ICP actual was about 2000 psi. Pulled the oil filler tube to check the coupler to the straight rail, nothing wrong there. Used my borescope to have a look inside the driver side bank at the coupler, no problem there either. But this would be a moot point wouldn't it, since there isn't any oil coming out of the pump to begin with!!! I pulled the IPR valve, and bench tested it on another old '03 cover along side a brand new IPR with similar results which to me indicates nothing wrong with the IPR, correct? Had my apprentice crank the engine over with the IPR removed, and no oil coming out!!! WTF? Engine oil level is good. Oil quickly fills up the oil filter housing with the filter removed while cranking the engine over. What gives??????

Jimbo, a photo like that belongs on our buddy's Rex's site, not a forum like this one. After all, isn't he the one that likes to post sophomoric pictures like this? Shit like this is NOT what I would've expected you to post.

0.3. This is why I don't even bother bringing the trucks into the shop for that recall. I just usually help myself to the part and tell the parts guy the RO number, run out to the truck with a 10mm wrench and prybar in hand and then it's all good.

I have one here with 275,000 kms. on the clock building only 9 to 10psi ICP when the engine is hot, and won't start. It will start with Brake Clean (or with LOTS and LOTS and LOTS of cranking). ICP volts are within specs at KOEO. After running it with valve covers removed, and EOT up to 185*F in the shop, it now restarts consistently I dead-headed the pump with the block-off tools as per PC/ED procedures. Results are: ICP psi (773 peak), IPR (84.77%), ICP Des'd (1097). As you can see, that is well below the 1500 psi minimum spec. My thinking is that ICP psi and Des'd should always be very close to each other under all conditions in a perfect world. And YES, I did check ICP volts Bruce. Even though this truck starts consistently (for now), am I still into an HPP? I understand that pretty much all 2003 model years with low ICP no-starts end up being the HPP. It's just that I'm reluctant to condemn the HPP on the customer's dime until it IS completely crapped out. Bear in the mind, the above unit had an FQR engine replaced at about 155,000 kms. a couple years back at another Ford Store (so there's actually 120,000 kms. on the engine now).

VERY interesting to know. So, you mean if a 6.0L Ford Powerstroke Crank becomes destined to reside inside a BLUE engine block to become a VT365, it gets a Navistar specific flange bolted to it after?

I was told that the crank flange is machined while bolted up from the factory during assembly, meaning that if that flange is removed, it is considered junk or will cause a permanent unrepairable oil leak if re-installed.

Why aren't you submitting a cost cap to FoMoCo for a long/short block? Let me guess, warranty numbers too high?

This is an ENGINE-OUT repair if I understand correctly. This is due to the fact that there are SIX what I call "DO-NOT-FUCK-WITH" bolts that secure a flange on the rear of the crank, that the cam gear won't clear, thus mandating complete crank removal to complete this repair. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

It isn't a "quick-DISCONNECT", but a "quick-CONNECT" ..... on the assembly line that is, and one time only. But I'm sure you must've figured that one out already.

Been there already. There WAS a box of old shims floating around in the shop awhile back, until the manager got the bitches to clean up the shop and throw out all the "unecessary" garbage. It's been a while since I've needed to overhaul an 8.8, so I've never had to visit this issue up until now. Of course, the ones I need aren't in stock, or available from FoMoCo either

I know this has probably been covered before at some point in time, but can anyone tell me if such a "kit" exists other than the ones in Ford school? I have one in my bay right now that is disabling me from other work (no "usable" spare bays).

Front cover cavitation?

This Saturday past, I get paged for a phone call from a roofing company (on a day that I'm not even scheduled to work). This customer had just had his '08 F-250 towed into my doorstep about a month ago, after the gas bar attendant had just realized he was putting in GAS while fueling up. After draining, and refilling with DIESEL life was all good (at the time). Fast forward to this Saturday past, they call asking specifically for me, in inform me that they went to fuel up at the SAME gas station, only to have the gas bar attendant make the same mistake AGAIN. My first question, was why in the hell did they go back to that station again, after the first fuck up. His answer, "because they are the only station close to where we live that have diesel".

I've had MANY trucks now, that have passed the injector buzz test, but no audible response from a few injectors during the test.

Well, I just pulled the regulator back off to recheck my work. No issue there. After looking more closely, I notice that fuel will bleed back down the SUPPLY side of the system not the return side. Anyone ever had an HFCM cause this?

Got one here that is killing me. After installing head studs and a new IPR valve along with fuel pressure regulator, truck will not fire. After cranking and more cranking, and more cranking, I was finally able to bring ICP up to starting specs, but won't maintain fuel pressure. When active commanding fuel pump ON, fuel fills up the secondary housing SLOWLY, but then bleeds back downward as soon as you turn active command OFF. Any ideas? HELP HELP HELP!!!

Harness.

I agree.

Why does it matter? Replacement cylinder heads come with both dowel sizes as needed regardless of model year application anyways.

Pull exhaust manifolds and run engine to see which cylinder(s) are emitting blue smoke.