mchan68

Yeah, but have you seen the price of these things?

Mike. Have a good read through this thread: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=26256#Post26256 I believe it sounds similar to an issue I had with an '08 E-Series ahwile back too.

The picture above, is the damage done to the IPR valve after one I replaced. And the one below, shows the debris that collected on the NEW screen.

But let me ask you guys honestly. Do you guys ever bother to do a manual compression test, if power balance indicates a DEAD miss, but relative compression shows green bars across the board? I know that Jim will preach a manual compression will give you real time results, which I agree 100%. But if relative compression shows you 0% across the board, what really are the chances that a mechanical issue is present, other than a faulty injector(s)/circuit(s)?

The next million dollar question is: ARE WE GOING TO GET PAID TO DO MANUAL COMPRESSION TESTS?

Just curious. Is there any possible way of obtaining the VIN of the originating vehicle, with just the engine serial number? I know that it's possible to obtain the engine serial number with the VIN through HvBOM (how many times we have to go through this when we submit prior approval claims right?), but what about the other way around? Can someone assist me with this? Here's the reason. 2004 E-Series in for a used engine replacement. The provider of the donor engine refuses to divulge the VIN info from which the engine came from. Thanks in advance.

FAR FAR away!!!

What was the point of having the cardboard in place to begin with?

Francois, I think you answered your own question already. Your post is the very reason why I get guardly nervous, when I get trucks in with EGR valve issues like this. And this is the exact reason why I insist on using our new car cleanup vac to suck up all loose carbon (or as much as possible). I've read enough of Keith's repeat EGR valve failure posts due to repeat carboning up, that I put a concerted effort into removing what I can. If it is carboned up so bad that cleaning it in vehicle is a wasted effort, I just opt to outright replace it (or send it out to be hot-tanked if it's retail). We all know very well, that it only takes a loose chunk to jam the new valve open and we're into the same problem again, or even worse, base engine damage concern as in your scenario.

Do you mean FRT (Fuel Rail Temperature)?

This is going to sound like another stupid question, but the brakes aren't seized by any chance are they? Have you tried driving it with the downpipe disconnected? And just to clarify, this unit DOES have 15 litres of oil in it, with the proper Ford/Motorcraft filter RIGHT?

I agree.

Aftermarket flasher.

This truck wouldn't happen to have had the reverse clutch drum snap ring "walk" out by any chance would it? I believe there was a program awhile back that affected late-build '04 model years with this specific problem, that also happened to find its way to some '05 model years aas well. Not that it matters now.

Just curious. But is the engine oil overfilled by chance? Sorry to be asking such a stupid question. But I vaguely recalled a truck I had a few years back that came in for a maintenance #3 that went to another tech in the shop. It was right after the maintenance was done, was when the truck arrived back on MY doorstep with the lack of power complaint. It turned out, the servicing tech forgot to drain the old oil out of the engine, before refilling with 15 litres of the NEW oil. That one pulled my hair out for a good while. I never forgot the shit kicking I took on that job!!!

We get a lot of P71 Crown Vickys at our store. I will keep my eyes peeled on the ones that roll in, and post VINs.

Do you mean keyless entry as in a factory driver door equipped keypad, or a remote?

Just by that piece of information, I'm assuming this vehicle has the 5.4L 3-valve engine. What is the condition of the donor engine? What is the condition of the phaser(s) and VCT solenoids?

I don't know how much this will help, but we have one here right now that has steel wheels. Here's the data: Module Reprogramming VIN: 2FAHP71V49X116856 Vehicle Data: 20F0 7737 FFBD Click here if module data required is not available below Module Information Found When prompted, be sure to save or copy the file to the following IDS directory: c:\Program Files\Ford Motor Company\Calibration Files PCM Module PCM 1 FFFF FFFF 020F PCM 2 FF0D 14FF FF30 PCM 3 FFFF 0FFF FF1E PCM 4 FFFF FFFF FF0F PCM 5 FFFF FFFF FF10 PCM 6 FFFF FFFF FF11 PCM 7 FFFF FFFF FF12 PCM 8 FFFF FFFF FF13 PCM 9 FFFF FFFF FF14 BCE Modules TSB SSM Instructions A0-01 29F3 F527 01DA A0-02 29F3 F601 01B6 A0-03 29F5 2445 012B A0-04 29F3 F51C 01D2 A0-05 2000 0000 00C5 A0-06 2323 2300 000F A0-07 0000 0000 04AB A0-08 2815 D400 00B9 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 58-01 3030 3032 4661 58-02 4148 5037 319B 58-03 5634 3958 31A7 58-04 3136 3835 3666 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 70-01 F71C 0000 FF83 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 720-01-01 1280 0000 BB -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 760-01-01 3246 4148 50BA 760-01-02 3731 5634 3995 760-01-03 5831 3136 3893 760-01-04 3536 0800 00DF 760-01-05 0000 0000 006D 760-01-06 0000 02FC 006C End of As Built information FCXWS447

It's funny how we get burned that way, when all testing seems to pass, yet it still doesn't run right. The last one I had like this through me off a little bit too. What got me thinking, was how it sounded almost exactly like a 6.0L with an EGR valve stuck wide open as it idled (very quiet, almost inaudible CLACKING). THAT was when I had my brainfart, that I remembered the very first one I got burned on. Sure enough, a little sampling was all it took, along with the look on the owner's face when he grabbed the gas receipt and glanced at it in disbelief. Glad you got it fixed.

To give you an idea on how I came up with that number, I pulled up the illustration for a 6.4L in the workshop manual(better detail in the illustrations than older trucks), and cross referenced it to a 6.4L truck (I figured it to be the same as a 6.0L). When I saw it listed as (5 req'd), I figured those would be the ones. Of course, when you go back to a 6.0L truck in Microcat with that same basic, it comes up with the same number but no illustration. Let me know if it's the right one. I'm curious now too. And I don't blame you for wanting to use any other fastener, other than what it calls for Keith.