mchan68

Now for the interesting question. What if the bridges are being replaced? Not that it has ever been an issue for me personally, YET.

Okay, this may sound like a stupid question I've been wanting to ask for a long time now, but got the chance to post it so here it goes. Out of the thousands upon thousands of 6.0L heads you guys have removed, have you ever noticed the valve bridges don't go on the tops of the valves in any particular orientation, despite the fact that there is an oval end and a round end on each bridge, where it contacts the valve stem? Now, I have always adhered to the practice of re-installing components back to their original locations, in their original orientation just for the sake of it being a good habit. But it seems that even on engines that the bridges have never been removed, I can't seem to find a particular pattern to the way they are supposed to be installed. Neither does the workshop manual specify a way in which they are supposed to go (oval side on the top valve or vice versa).

You're bad!!!

Stupid question. But does anyone know the global tool kit number for the one that has the injector wiring connector remover and the glow plug harness puller tool? I'm pretty sure both are in the same kit.

I hear you loud and clear. The answer is simple. Leave decision up to the customer. It is CUSTOMER PAY after all. I guess the best way to approach this, is to quote the repair as you did and got approved initially. The only thing to do differntly, is to also quote all eight for replacement and make sure the advisor explains this to him clearly, the pros and cons of doing it the expensive way and the cheap way. I had one a couple months back, that "his mechanic" said it needed all eight injectors. Given that this particular truck was out of warranty, I found it odd that he chose to bring it to me when "his mechanic" DIAGNOSED it as needing all eight injectors. As it turned out, it was the FICM (big surprise?). Even after I got the "go ahead", this customer still didn't believe that the FICM was the culprit failed part..........some people you just can't make happy no matter how hard you try .

I did happen to notice a set of gauges there, for testing EGR cooler PRESSURE. Hmmmmmm.......

Next time anyone has one of these apart, check the fulcrums on the rocker arms where they contact the valve bridges. Just my

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=20819#Post20819

Yeah, whoever tried to put it in, obviously tried to force it in somehow, and managed to break off the piece of the high pressure oil pump cover, where the tube goes in. They tried to cover it up with silly snot all over both ends of the drain tube. Now it doesn't surprise me that it took them three weeks to "repair" the guy's truck.

It will be back in, on the hook guaranteed. At that point is where you HOOP him GOOD.

If you are referring to the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake just ahead of the throttle body on the firewall side, those are pretty common to swell up on a lot of 24V Duratecs of that era, and get by some of even the most seasoned driveability techs.

.....and never mind the fact that all the "cosmetic" shit is all U.S.A. back order.

Mine also requires a fan shroud ("silly snotted" together), as well as the above mentioned harness cover. But I got you beat on this one. This one is missing ALL the FICM mounting hardware (just sitting loose on the v/c)and the heat shield at the back of the high pressure oil pump. And here's where I got you beat. The turbo was mounted with the y-pipe crooked, leaving a good sized exhaust leak, and now I know why, after digging into it. Whoever last wrenched on it, mangled the shit out of the turbo drain tube AND ruined the high pressure oil pump cover where the tube is supposed to go in. Pictures to follow.....

Thank you. I got one in here now, that looks like the Sobey's meat department employees went to town on as well, needing the exact same parts.

3C3Z-14A099-AA for the plastic cover, and -W705589-S for the pushpins.

This month is pretty well considered a write-off for me. I got an '04 E-450 that I UPSOLD coolers RETAIL, head studs on another one "in the line-up", the 6.4L with a popping sound in the intake, a couple '09 Escapes for phasers, a 2000 F-550 that sounds like it's needing an HCU..... and so on. YEAH!!! HAPPY NEW YEAR guys!!!!

But how in the hell is it, that this truck drove smooth, and didn't skip a beat after I buttoned everything up? I mean, I torqued EVERY fastener on this puppy right down to the rocker arms WITH THE CRANK IN THE PROPER ORIENTATION per the workshop manual. If there were any issues with the valvetrain, would it not have shown up right away, the moment it fired up?

YES.

Well, my nightmare just showed up on my doorstep last night. I go to fire it up this morning, and this thing is just a THUMP THUMP THUMPing away through the intake!!!! I WANT to see Ford try and blame this on me. I just WANT to!!!

For once I got you beat Aaron. I got TWO E-450s in on the hook yesterday as no-starts with promise times of "whenever he has time to get to it". I got TWO '09 Escapes also "in line" waiting in the new year for phasers, an F-Series coming in next week, that "Joe's Garage" hacked up EVERYTHING under the sun (fan stator broken and silly snotted together, main cowl harness broken and left sitting on top of turbo, FICM brackets MISSING and left sitting on the VC loose, inertia switch bypassed and wires taped together, MASSIVE exhaust leak due to improper y-pipe to inlet installation etc....). Oh, that's not to mention another 6.0L coming in possibly for heads. Sorry for the highjack.

Yes, I figured this out AFTER. Thanks anyhow.

Did this exact same repair, for the exact same concern right down to the same bank, about a year ago. And yes, I did drop the subframe. Believe it or not, dropping the powertrain is not a PITA on these vehicles. Just remember to mark the steering coupler orientation, due to the fact that it is NOT master splined on these particular vehicles.

This truck is getting the clips, UVC harnesses and cover gaskets due to its high mileage to avoid having any future concerns.

Thanks Keith and Bruce. You guys rock!!!