mchan68

Okay, here's what I've done so far:-Removed wheel well. -disconnected ABS HCU connector, three other main bulkhead connectors, EGR cooler clamps, steering coupler (even removed the three steering box bolts), dipstick nut & bolt (but the dipstick won't come out), both lower coolant tube bolts and all EGR cooler fasteners. -removed the outer stud. Can't seem to remove the inner one due to severely limited access. Finally managed to remove it, but can't seem to get it to clear the dipstick tube (the coolant port keeps getting hooked on it).

All right. Don't laugh guys. This vehicle has only 36,000 kms. on it. Already on its 3rd rad. Customer complains of coolant loss. Checked for coolant coming out of EBP tube, and I got a geyser. Any tips. I got everything apart except the turbo exhaust inlet pipe from the manifold. I can't seem to get the cooler to move rearward to clear the studs in order to enable removal. Do I need to drop the steering box? Any other tips?

Given the fact that the thread title is that of a 3.0L Ranger, I WAS going to post something I came across awhile back. Although unrelated, I happened upon an E-Series V10 issue. Ever since the engine was re-assembled, it was running like crap. It took a week and a half of "playing around" by other guys in the shop going nowhere. I will never forget the WDS (yes I said WDS) power blance screen. It was a PERFECT "zig-zag". When I came into the picture, was when I suggested the possibility of the engine being mis-timed. At that point, the SM was open to any suggestion, so he let ME open it up. Low and behold, the driver side bank was off exactly one and a half tooth. I couldn't believe this thing actually ran, without doing any damage to the valves!!! That was one situation I never forgot. But since this particular engine is an overhead valve type setup, I guess it's a moot point anyways, isn't it?

What's this Aaron? And WHAT exactly DON'T you like?

LOL you didn't need to. Trust me, after digging into one of these myself and realizing that the one bolt was too long to clear the cover was when I had that brainfart, remembering your photopost. It was that photo that motivated me into getting into overdrive mode and pulling the cover off to do it the RIGHT way. Glad to hear that this "tech" is no longer employed at your store. And, for the record, I don't consider myself anywhere near the best tech by any means. But one thing I REFUSE to do, is to resort to hackery. I'll probably never be able to be good enough to be able to satisfy Jim Warman's standard, but I'll sure give it my damnedest. Onto the next 5.4L 3V nightmare that awaits me next week!!

Not sure where to post this, but first off, I'd like to thank Brad Clayton for posting this photo: It didn't actually sink in, as to what the point was to it, until today. I have an '04 F-150 5.4L 3V in for "clacking" noises when engine is hot. Hotline has recommended I replace the phasers and VCT Solenoid valve bodies. Well, after replacing them, all I can say is, if this kind of butchery exists, how in the hell did he replace the passenger side valve body, given that you need to remove the timing chain guide that is bolted on top of it. Again, THANKS Brad for pic. It only motivated me that much more NOT to even think of attempting shortcuts or hackery. You'd be amazed how quickly I was able to remove the front cover and time the engine PROPERLY.

VERY WELL SAID!!! I was just thinking the same thing myself. This reminds me of a time that I air tested the high pressure oil system after reassembling everything on an E-Series a couple years back. I don't remember, but I think I posted a thread about it here. This was the one that had had the STC fitting SUPPOSEDLY replaced with the update (with the reinforcement bracket) according to OASIS. I had both valve covers removed, unable to find any deteriorated o-rings or any obvious signs of leaks. Yet when I applied air pressure, all I could hear was leaks all over the place. It wasn't until I learned that oil had to pass through the entire system before the test could provided any valid results. This particular truck ended up actually being the STC fitting that was leaking. It turned out that the dealer that the part was actually charged out and the tech paid for the repair, without the repair actually being done.

It was a parts sale. Don't know what the concern is. Some outside "garage" is asking me what I would charge in labour to replace. I said ballpark 10 ro 12 for E-Series. So, you're telling me I didn't quote high enough? Yeah, hence my signature.

Just curious. How much would you guys charge for this job RETAIL?

The whole point of this post, was that I noticed the letter in the post was written on Slave Lake Ford letterhead, so I figured either Jim, Dwayne or Adam might've known who the poster was. Even more interesting was the varying views that were expressed in that particular thread. I was thinking it would open some of our eyes regarding the attitudes of some of our customers towards us.

Now that you mention it, it could very well be, I don't know. Based on the fact that the customer took delivery of the vehicle and was back the very next day, it could very well be that something whacked it but I would think would've had to whack it pretty hard to cause THAT amount of damage.

That is BULLSHIT in my opinion. Unless you caused the failure, or "didn't go deep enough" you should NOT be working for free, least of all a job that is as particularly involved as this one. I'd be speaking to the SM if I were you, for some internal time if the customer refuses to pony up for the repair.

The last one I just did last week RETAIL, I charged 3.0 hrs. total for diag and replace. So I guess my quote was right on.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-4l-pe...nty-letter.html Jim or Dwayne, care to comment on this one?

Actually, the story goes that this vehicle was sold, and shortly after the customer took delivery she was back when she noticed a huge puddle of oil on her driveway. Another tech in the shop ordered an oil pan for it. It wasn't until it was noticed that the extent of the damage was deeper, that it landed into my hands. They gave her another vehicle, of course.

I finally had the time to get to this job today. The engine only arrived about a week and a half ago. Here are some more views: .....and back in the crate it goes:

I wouldn't say "sour". I just think those clowns are a little pathetic driving around in those little pieces of turds on wheels that I wouldn't put my signature on to pass a safety with, even if you were to put a gun to my head, making nuisances of themselves everywhere they go. Oh well, to each their own.

I couldn't agree more!!! This is why I'm glad I don't live in U.S. of A. WHAT A FUCKING WASTE!!! I think I saw one video where they "clunkered" an Oldsmobile Aurora owned by ONE owner that was LOW MILEAGE!!! I can understand rust buckets or smoke puffers, oil burners, and DEFINITELY those so-called "rice rockets" with those "fart can" exhausts (I would personally love to blow THOSE up, even if they weren't being traded in) that you see these young punks with those droopy drawers putting around in, thinking they're king shit.

I had one not too long ago, that was leaking externally from the vertical EGR cooler hose.

How is everything else otherwise (base lube oil pressure, IPR, ICP bias, etc.)?

Not to be a pain in the ass, but is there a point to this question? I've only had two 6.0Ls that were no-starts due to one failed injector that I can recall. But both those injector failures were not due to low ICP issues, and were in conjunction with EGR valves stuck open causing the no-starts.

That's what I was getting at, and the whole point of me posting this thread. The WSM instructs you to remove the front cover IN-CHASSIS but I don't see how this is physically possible. And that's why I was just curious as to how other guys are executing this particular repair. The only issue I have, is how much time I'll be losing by dropping the powertrain, let alone trying to break even or God forbid, actually make time on this job.

My "next victim" appears to be a 2008 Lincoln MKX for a set of phasers that's been diag'd by our tune-down department. With all the 6.0L diesel shit coming out of my ass lately, I haven't much time wrenching under the hoods of other junk so I was wondering if any of you have ever had the pleasure (or should I say DIS-pleasure?) of this particular repair? I don't see 9.0 hrs. being a realistic time frame, but what else is new right? Reading through the WSM on the procedure to remove the timing cover instructs to do it, with the engine in-vehicle. I swung the vehicle into my bay, and got as far as removing both valve covers, and I don't see how it's physically possible to pull the front cover off in-vehicle. Does anyone have any pointers? Thanks in advance guys.

Thanks for the replies. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's come across this. Now that you mention it, it does make sense, because I vaguely remembered the batteries being very low at the time of cluster replacement. Just wondering, but did it also cause a no-CRANK type no-start for you as well?

That's exactly what I've been charging.