mchan68

Okay, I got engines to do back-to-back. I got the E-Series short block buttoned up in good time, so I thought I'd get the P71 cop car in and get started on it. Got the old engine out and stripped in good time, but couldn't get the old dipstick tube out without breaking it. Our parts department doesn't have it in stock and the only other dealer that has it locally, is in completely the opposite direction of where all our parts drivers are for this afternoon. Fair enough, so I proceed with the long block installation, in anticipation of the part to arrive Monday morning. I get the new long block installed, and just realized I forgot to install the separator plate that goes between the engine and transmission!!! Rant off. How's your Friday going gentlemen?

Has the diff sensor been replaced? I believe it is updated? Usually U1900 sets along with the DTC for rear speed sensor input (can't remember the number off the top of my head) when this happens. A new sensor has always fixed it for me.

The last 6.4L that darkened my doorstep set a P0297 by itself in memory by itself, but no MIL.

This vehicle is a 2001 model year. I thought it was only on 1995 to 1997 model years that used a sock.

Update: After waiting PATIENTLY for four days for the fucktards at work to get our laptop working again, it now flags a hard P0232. Checked for power and ground at the pump. Looks like a fuel pump it is. This would be the very first fuel pump I've ever had to replace on a 7.3L. Anyone else experience this?

One of my many "projects" on the go here. I have an '01 F-350 that the customer complains of stalling. Vehicle is able to restart right away. Vehicle was in last week. Monitored EBP, MAP, BARO, ICP volts & psi and IPR duty cycle. All were well within specs that I recall on any 7.3L except EBP. EBP was reading 53 psi at KOEO and KOER and set DTCs accordingly. Noticed fuel filter was BLACK (like it hadn't been changed in LONG time) and the fuel heater connector burned. After replacing the EBP (now reading 14.5 psi) and an entire fuel filter and housing COMPLETE (new fuel heater, drain valve and WIF sensor), as well as the outstanding 07S57 CMP, the truck returns with the same complaint. Road tested, sure enough the truck began to run a little rough like it was about to stall, but never actually did before I was able to limp it back to the shop. To me it felt like it was running out of fuel. I called up one of my diesel "go to" buddies at another dealer. He's of the opinion that the high pressure pump is cavitating. So, his suggestion is to monitor ICP pressure with the engine redlining at 3400 RPMs for five minutes to see if ICP increases to about 3000ish, and if so call a high pressure pump and an IPR valve. What do you guys think? Does this make sense? I just don't want to spend more of this guy's money without being sure. The engine oil IS clean and clear like it was changed yesterday, by the way so I doubt the oil is foaming.

Ditto.

How many hours did you quote, or would you quote for this repair?

Okay gents, I'm not sure where to post this but here it goes. I have a 2006 E-450 6.8L V10 bus in for its yearly inspection. One of the complaints is for defrost only selection. The main HVAC supply vacuum hose is broken off from under the hood to the engine vacuum hose junction on the passenger side (the one that's routed through the main wire harness loom). Simple enough. It's where it's broken off is where it gets to be a pain. The area where it's broken cannot be accessed from the engine compartment even with the battery and battery tray removed. Moving to the inside of the bus, I have sift through bags of old people diapers to get to the heater box area, and still can't get to the same hose. Nor can I access it from the right/front wheel inner fenderwell. Looking the workshop manual, I couldn't get a diagram of this hose, nor in the Microcrap catalogue illustraion. From my own looking up, the part number I get is F7UZ-19C828-BA. This part is not available anywhere. My understanding is 6C2Z-19B555-A INCLUDES the hose, as well as the evaporator and housing (which it looks like I'm going to have to remove, in order to access where the hose is broken anyways). Are the part numbers correct by my description?

WPT-338 it is, for the win! Thanks guys.

I thought that Blue Diamond Trucks was the alliance between FoMoCo and Navistar. Given the fact that when the 6.4L was put into production, the 6.0L did the great disappearing act from the options list of the F-650/F-750, leaving the Cummins 6.7L and the CAT 3126B as the only two choices. Now, with Navistar completely out of the picture, it doesn't surprise me one bit that Ford would be taking a departure from the medium duty truck scene.

I would still do it body-off without even thinking about it, even if there are 12 body-to-frame bolts and a filler neck.

Thanks. That's the same number I ended up finding myself in the pictures of all available. Apparently it's a cylinder head temperature sensor connector. We'll see when it arrives tomorrow. And yes, it's getting a new fuel heater (whole housing and filter with drain valve). It's been a while since I've wrenched on any 7.3L.

There is no small harness. It's the entire 12B637 engine harness that includes new glow plug and manifold air heater relays for an astronomical price.

Does anyone know the part number for the two cavity female pigtail connector for a fuel heater on an '01 F-350 7.3L? Microcrap doesn't list one. Thanks in advance.

Guess I know what I'm doing with my pile from now on.

So what are you getting at? That "they" may be toying with the idea of shoehorning the 6.7L into them?

How does it drive, if you disconnect the downpipe from the turbo? What I'm driving at, is all too often many guys jump the gun to the turbo itself before performing the quickest and simplest tests first. I had one a while back that the customer had the turbo replaced RETAIL at another dealership before ending up on my doorstep. It took me all of ten minutes to determine the cat was plugged. I'm "assuming" you also checked the air filter, right?

Remove the air inlet and cover the openings at the throttle body and hose ends with the plastic 6.0L turbo protective plastic block-offs, and find a suitablably sized opening to fill the intake with smoke.

How's the PCV valve/hose?

Jim that has to be one of THE BEST way to put things in proper perspective that I have ever read in any one of your posts. Do you mind me referring to that quote from here on in? ......and all that said, what is wrong with being FUNDAMENTALLY correct?

What about the E-Series?