mchan68

I just replaced the turbo on this truck two weeks ago. At that time, I already did a crankcase pressure test before replacing the turbo. Interestingly enough. I drove this truck out of the shop (while waiting for the turbo to arrive), and it seemed to have plenty of power, even without the turbo installed.

I doubt engine cranking RPM is an issue here, because I had the the batteries charged up, with a booster connected and cranking as fast as 224 RPM.

Nope. I pulled the EGR valve out already. It was clean and closed. I even tried to fire it up, with the valve removed.

Well Gents, it has been a while since any 6.0L has occupied my bay that I haven't been able to fix a no-start issue on, up until this last Friday. This vehicle came in two weeks ago blowing plumes of smoke that I determined to be a turbo shaft seal failure, which I promptly replaced and sent on its merry way. The exact complaint is described as follows: "Vehicle smoked badly, started to chug, choke, then died out. Attempted to restart. Engine only cranks, but fails to restart." Here is what I have done so far: Performed PC/ED pinpoint test from symptom chart #3. Fuel pump pressure @ secondary fuel filter housing reaches 50 psi at key-on. PIDs monitored are ICP volts/psi, IPR duty cycle volts = 0.24 volts at KOEO, climbs to 1200 psi during engine cranking, IPR duty cycle increases to just less than 50%. KOEO injector buzz self-test = PASS. FICM_L/FICM_M/FICM_V PIDs indicate 12.00/48.5/12.00 @ KOEO & FICM_L & V decrease to about 9.0, but FICM_M remains steady @ 48.5 during engine cranking. FICM SYNC and SYNC PIDs change from "NO" to "YES" during engine cranking. Batteries were weak, possibly due to repeated attempts to restart engine. Charged vehicle batteries up, prior to testing. Vehicle sputters during attempt to start engine. Already checked output to injectors with homemade "noid light" tester. Plugged in "test" FICM, all failing to achieve starting engine. So, as you can see, EVERYTHING that is needed to achieve a running engine IS there. I should mention that the engine WILL start with brake clean, but won't continue to run on its own accord. I have already removed the secondary filter cap and cranked the engine over to see if compression gases are leaking from any of the banks, and that appears to check out good. Relative compression reveals green bars and 0% across the board. Fuel quality has been verified. When cranking the engine over, it sounds like a "CLICK-CLACK, CLICK-CLACK, CLICK-CLACK...." but fails to catch. The only thing I have determined conclusively so far, is that it's definitely starved for fuel by the sounds of things. Now the question is WHERE? If the injector buzz test passes, and the noid light lights up nice and bright when plugged in, in place of the injector, is there a way to isolate the faulty injector(s) before I actually go ahead to remove all eight? Hotline suggests removing the glow plugs and cranking the engine over to check for fuel mists from the glow plug holes. Anyone else have any ideas? This is a 2005 with 104,00 kms. (about 62,000 miles).

OOPS!!! Flat rate reading on a Friday, when I'm getting MONUMENTALLY hooped!!!

AGREED 100%

That's IF you can actually find a co-worker not too busy doing his gravy ball joints/brake pads to stop what he's doing to give you a hand. In my shop, just about all the guys refuse to even go within 20 ft. of any diesel truck (unless it's for RETAIL brakes only).

I agree that an engine hoist helps A LOT. However, with the body removed, I find that lifting with your legs and proper balance makes lifting the heads more bearable (even for a skinny little guy like me). This is why I refuse to pull heads on these engines, if cab removal is impossible. My back is worth more to me than all the money in the world.

Remove both inner quarter trim panels.

So, if I understand correctly. Ford now thinks that T-stats are what's causing repeat rad failures?

I wasn't too sure if I should revive an old thread or start a new one on this subject, but here it goes: In rolls another umpteenth 6.0L on the hook for a FICM failure. Again, as per 08-26-03 to check for one of the three FICM calibrations, the one I had this morning had calibration AKZ2AH19 pre-repair and ARZ2AL11 post-repair. Since this doesn't correspond to any of the three listed, I guess this means this vehicle didn't have the inductive heat calibration installed, once again disproving the theory that inductive heat is what's causing the recent wave of multiple FICM failures. Here's the interesting twist. It came in with P0265/P0268/P0274 cylinders 2,3, & 5 circuits HIGH. It did NOT flag P0611/P1378 or all eight injector circuits LOW. Yet, testing according to PC/ED pinpoint test 'P' steps would've throw me in a circle, since I didn't flag any P03** cylinder misfire codes (nor have I ever on any 6.0L). This is one of those times where having a "tester" FICM came in handy, along with the 6.0L injector "noid lights" to avoid mis-diaged injector(s). Funny enough. Just last week, our parts department sold eight new 6.0L injectors. Hmmm. Kinda makes me wonder.

9C3Z-8101-A

That piece of plastic that comes with the kit is as useless as tits on a bull, which is why it goes straight into the garbage when I install them. I simply tighten the outlet fitting to the proper torque onto the pump, and reinstall the whole assembly, starting with the two 8mm bolts (or 5/16") onto the branch tube, and then pry it forward until I can start the other three TX-45 bolts that secure the pump by hand, before I tighten everything up.

Okay, what are we working on here, an E or F Series? I'm assuming you are referring to an F Series, by what you are describing. If it is an F Series, you have to remove the EGR cooler and turbo pedestal to get the cover off. This CAN be done without removing the intake, if you know how to finesse the cooler out. But, if you're a little "green" with these things, you are better off removing the intake.

I prefer to use 5/16" as well. It reduces the likelihood of rounding of stubborn fasteners, on which there tend to be LOTS on a 6.0L.

No. Just the two 8mm bolts at the back of the engine to the cover. I leave the shield in place.

Hence my signature.

Unless you're one of those who are into "Golden Showers".

Have you smoke tested it through the EP sensor tube yet?

Here's my list of DIY fuck ups. -Guys with Taurus 3.0L OHV V6s. Change the belt. Change the tensioner and idler. STILL squeaking away, despite LIBERAL amounts of belt dressing on the NEW belt. Drop a CMP and synchro, and see you later in the movies. How many of you guys have come across those? Although, a few years back, I had one that had a SEVERE squeaking noise originating from the engine that turned out to be something different. Like mentioned above, the vehicle also had LIBERAL amounts of belt dressing slathered all over. It turned out that the roller lifter guide let go, causing damage to cylinder #4 intake lifter and an almost flatted cam lobe. Interestingly, simply removing the drive belt and running the engine would've eliminated EVERYTHING to do with the belt drive as the source of the noise. -Focuses are very cheap and cheesy vehicles to begin with. But try doing your own set of pads and rotors, and it helps to actually screw in the 7mm allen sliders in, STRAIGHT. -On the subject of Focuses, I've seen more than my share of DIYer fuckups, in futile attempts to replace their own ignition lock cylinders. A couple of which, resulted in entire column replacements because the DIYer(s) drilled too far. -Although not DIYer, I remember an Aerostar coming in years ago for an engine misfire, even after a "tune-up" was done at Canadian Tire. Not only was the firing order not correct, but TWO spark plugs weren't even replaced!!! I'm sure you guys can figure out which two.

I don't personally think that to be very funny for customer to have sustained an injury like that. But sadly, some people do need to learn the hard way.The vehicle in question wouldn't happen to have been a Taurus or Windstar, would it? The reason I ask, is because of one such incident a couple years back, when a fellow tech in my shop was in the process of replacing springs on a Taurus. The spring was caged in the wall mounted spring compressor, when it let go, it flew half way across the shop, narrowly missing my legs, where I was, in the middle of changing a tire on the tire machine. That incident put him on workman's comp. He never returened to work.

I have one here, that I replaced the rad last week. Comes back in yesterday morning with an upper rad hose leak at the connection to the new rad. Replaced upper hose. Leak fixed, for now. Closer examination of the old upper rad hose failed to reveal anything wrong, nor was anything found to be wrong with the connection to the upper hose on the new rad. When customer came to pick up the vehicle this morning, I put a pressure tester on it with the customer present. System held pressure for a good twenty minutes with no drop, nor leak. Satisfied, the customer took his truck back. Just as I'm about ready to call it a day, I get a phone call from the customer complaining of YET ANOTHER leak. Bring the truck back in, and pressure test. System holds pressure. But a little presuasive wiggling, reveals yet another leak, this time from the lower hose, where it connects to the engine block on the driver side. I've replaced a lot of 6.4L rads, and have never had anything like this happen. And yes, this truck has already had the coolant tee installed awhile back. Is there something I'm missing here? Has anyone else come across this?

Hey, if I could get TWO bad-out-of-box 7.3L injectors in a row, to fix the same vehicle, NOTHING surprises me anymore.

Well, I'm glad I'm not alone. Read my thread about the cylinder #4 injector fiasco, and you'll know I sure took a good hooping on that one.