mchan68

I am just WAITING to get the first phone call from a "ginzo garage" requesting info on how to remove these things.

This is exactly the reason why I won't even bother attempting to remove the EGR valves on these things without having a housing in my hands. Screw them. I'm not wasting my time to fight with a part that doesn't want to come out on warranty's dime. Is everyone else slathering anti-seize onto the new valves before installing.

Are you able to deal with any Canadian dealers Keith? The following dealers show it in stock: George Stockfish Ford Sales in North Bay - 705-476-1416 Planet Ford in Brampton (right in my neck of the woods) - 905-451-1685 Terry Ortynsky Royal in Yorkton - 306-782-2261 Kennedy Ford Sales in Oakville Ontario - 905-845-1111 The list goes on, if you need more......

Nice!!! How much fun did you have, "finessing" the right valve cover off, so as not to disturb that cheesy plastic heater tube? Fortunately for me, I had a "reliable source" forewarn me of this prior to carrying this out. Apparently, if you break this tube, you're pulling the power steering pump pulley off IN-VEHICLE to access and replace the tube. Anyone suffer from this misfortune yet?

I'm waiting to discuss this with our warranty clerk to see how much I can squeeze out of this one. Whatever it is, there sure as hell isn't going to be any gain time. I have about 34 hours punched into it. Bear in mind, this truck is used as a salter, making EVERYTHING on the outside covered with hardened CRUD, not to mention lines that won't come loose, and "added shit" like additional wiring to power up the plow and the salter. There was no fuel or oil contamination on this truck. Just a VERY "swollen" degas bottle that vented a lot under load. Also "topped up" with green coolant. Oil cooler was replaced due to Ford's "pressure differential" guideline. The EGR cooler, well, I replaced that too while having it all apart, considering the fact it's original (orange hose) and the fact that we all know that oil cooler failures ARE the cause of EGR cooler failures. I ain't ripping into this one again.

Yeah, I know. For me the biggest concern is finding an "assistant" in the shop to actually help me remove the seat WITHOUT scratching the rear door panel on the way out.

I had one last week that needed ALL EIGHT. I had to drop $567 for a Strap-On torque wrench for the job too.

How do you get the frame bolts to go back in straight, with the carpet limiting your space?

Sorry for the highjack Aaron.Maybe you guys can help me out with this one. I have an '05 F-250 here written up as "report on hard-start/no-start cold - runs poorly, white smoke from tailpipe and coolant stains on rad cap". This truck needed a FICM, the "trifecta" and coolant degas bottle and cap to fix. Here's what I have into it so far: 6005E 0.6 6005E2 0.1 6005E3 0.1 6005E4 0.1 6005E45 0.3 12650D67 0.7 12650D84 0.5 081103A 2.3 081103B 6.5 081103C 0.5 081103E 14.1 I'm not sure how much to pay myself for MT082603. Is there anything I'm missing?

So who's Tommy torque-stick?

That's exactly how I do it. If I had my way, I would DISCARD it and replace it with the aluminum tube and the two rubber ends.

You could always ship it to good old Rex, and let him fix it. After all, he knows better than the rest of us.

I have a unit here that is getting new heads and both coolers. I always found it interesting that with each new head, comes the gasket, dowels, as well as standpipes for '03 model year applications an '05 to '07 model years. This means that for '04 model years you either need to order a new standpipe or reuse it. The truck in my bay right now is an '05 model year (that's a LATE build '05 with a MAF). But it appears to have '04 high pressure oil rails that use the 1/2" square drive to remove the standpipe and dummy rail plug as illustrated in the photo below on the right, compared to the one on the left, that uses the 10mm allen key to remove. But, when you line the three standpipes up together, it doesn't look like the later '05 to '07 style standpipe can be used in place of the '04 style, when you see the difference in lengths. Anyone care to comment? Just curious. Has anyone else ever had an '05 truck apart with '04 rails like the one in my bay right now?

IMO, the plastic style CAC tube never should've been released in the first place. Those things are a royal PITA to remove and install onto the adapters.

The correct part number for later build models is 4C3Z-6608-B. THAT is the one needed to be used with the PW-491 (4C3Z-8501-AC) water pump.

WooHoo!!!! May I congratulate you on being the first of our crew to be BANNED!!! Wow Larry. I don't think Rex likes you very much either. What's going on here? Are you forewarning too many potential victims......oops, I mean customers from darkening his doorstep? Is his business beginning to decline as a result of our efforts here?

Stupid question. Did you check OASIS for 09B08?

I'm just waiting until these pigs run out of warranty and have to replace them at $3,800 a piece!

Will the engine free rev to 3,800 RPM in PARK at WOT?

I've done two of them so far. Other than that, they appear to be excellent cars so far.

Just curious Keith. What did you claim for labour time? Notice how it's MT time. I did one of these on a city truck where the valve was completely plugged solid with carbon. I also opted to replace the intake, given that the passages were pretty plugged up too. This was on a low mileage '05 truck with about 45,000 kms. (around 28,000 miles). I had a fun time reinstalling the intake elbow too. I didn't think that little amount of space added would make THAT much of difference. My personal opinion would be that it just leaves another area for carbon to collect, thus making the problem even worse. I also notice that the PM-22-B and PM-23-B additives are INCLUDED in the parts list of the TSB. This means the customer doesn't have to pay for them?

Ummmmmm.................I don't think that's going to happen anytime soon, given that Ford has scrapped plans for the 4.4L. After much tinkering with numbers, I guess the beancounters at FoMoCo figured out that offering the 4.4L wouldn't be cost effective, neither to the consumer nor to FoMoCo to put into production.

Now, why in the hell would you want to waste good parts to throw at this meatclown? I say we gather a whole collection of discarded 7.3L CMPs to throw at him instead. I know Keith at least has a jar full of them. What about the rest of us?