mchan68

I haven't heard of it YET. But I doubt that applies to us Canadian techs, since we are considered to be chopped liver in the eyes of FoMoCo.

I can't think of any vehicle that Continental brand tires last very long on. Tauruses with the Contitrac are another good example, as are Escapes. For 2009 model year Escapes, Ford has swtiched to Michelin as the OEM supplier. For this reason, any time I get a vehicle needing tires, I won't quote Continental brand tires.

Well, I just got finished one yesterday. So this is an interesting situation I have on my hands right now. Since the RO date is 04/13/09, but the TSB publication date for us Canadian dealers is 04/14/09, which TSB do I claim, since we no longer have access to link to 08-11-03 in the OASIS tab? Also, I noticed it lists a new part number 3C3Z-6A642-CA (oil cooler kit) versus 3C3Z-6A642-AA. What are the differences between the two?

Get your mirror in there with your flame wrench brazing tip and heat up the boss where the bolt threads into. Once heated up, loosen it with your 1/4" drive ratchet and short 10mm socket. Your mirror is going to be your friend here.

For what it's worth, I can count on my hands how EGR coolers (or cooler) I've ever replaced on any '03 model year (round style cooler), namely ONE. And that was a couple years ago, when the infamous orange hose coolant leak issue was just coming to light, before I was aware that the hose could be bought separately. With an ECT/EOT spread like that I would be inclined to replace the oil cooler (and EGR cooler too just by virtue of being "in there"). I would be more inclined to believe your white smoke issue to be caused by an injector or two, overfueling given that it's an '03. If the MAF reading fails on the Air Management Test, that would certainly impact turbo boost, again given that it's an '03 (assuming it has had the 06E17 reflash). Now, your coolant loss issue, have you ruled out the simple things like the water pump, or any other EXTERNAL leaks? How about DTCs? Does VGT_LRN indicate "yes"?

This reminds me of an '03 truck I had in the shop awhile back to change an injector or two. Nearly all of the 8mm bolts were completely rounded off. A quick look at the OASIS Warranty Claims History revealed that this particular truck had been to SEVERAL (at least four) other dealers for multiple injector replacements, before it landed in my hands. Just my .

...and this (in the photo below) wouldn't happen to be the manufacturer you speak of, would it by any chance? Just an update to this mess. Hotline still insists on a wiring issue being the cause of the problem. In one of my many strolls through the parts department I came across two 7.3L injector core returns. One was the original injector I replaced on the vehicle in question. The second one, is a core return from an outside parts sale. Just for shits and giggles, I borrowed the two cores and reran the buzz test. The original injector I replaced failed (no surprise). Connect the core return (illustrated above) from the outside sale, and what do you know? It passes. After much back and forth consultation between myself, my shop foreskin, Hotline and my SM, I was able to convince my parts department to pick up yet another injector and retest. I guess the third time is the charm!!! I'm driving this thing home tonight and I'll report my findings in the morning.

UPDATE: I have substituted BOTH the power wire (PK/Y) and ground wire (BN/LB) at the IDM connector and reran buzz test with the wires connected directly to an out-of-box injector BOTH from the IDM in-vehicle and out-of-box IDM. SAME FUCKING THING!!! P0270/P1274 doesn't go away. The injector out-of-box buzzes nice and strong. I don't know where else to go from here

Tried that already. SAME FUCKING THING!!! Here's a good one. Hotline's next instruction is to put a new engine harness in it, despite the fact that I verified and verified and reverified the circuit(s) are good!!!

Well, here's what I've so far. I've swapped the IDM with a new one ordered in for stock. Same DTCs. I've load tested the circuit on the high and low side by plugging in a headlamp bulb on the injector side of the harness, and a spare 12 volt battery at the IDM side of the harness. Bulb lights up nice and bright. I even powered it up through cylinder #2 side of the circuit with same results. I've flipped with VC 180 degrees as per Hotline instruction with the same results achieved. I've plugged in another new out-of-box injector (without actually installing it into its bore) with the same results. I've OVERLAYED circuit #558 (BN/LB) cylinder #4 low side straight from the IDM to the VC. SAME FUCKING THING!!! I've checked and double checked the UVC harness (even plugged a new one in with the SAME FUCKING THING!!!). What to do next!!!!

My concern is what happens if I replace another injector and get the same fucking thing happening again? Do I claim all the 6005 series labour ops along with the 9527AL under the SPW?

And what are the chances of having a bad-out-of-box injector? I swear this thing was running smooth after I replaced the injector initially. I road-tested it around the block a couple of times even letting it idle for a bit. I even cold-started it the next day before it was picked up with no problems. The customer says when he picked it up, it started to run rough again, to the point it where it wouldn't start. What bothers me most, is EVEN IF one cylinder is down, it should still be able to fire up shouldn't it?

Well, I had our parts manager order an IDM in for stock. Plugged it in, and low and behold it still flags a hard P0270 when running a KOEO injector buzz test. I have double checked and triple checked wiring between the IDM connector pin #7 and the connector at the VC. I even checked cylinder #2 circuit white wire between pin #22 on the IDM and the VC connector with the exact same fucking readings. Funny thing is, this truck now won't start!!! I checked fuel pressure and quality. Both are good. The truck will fire up initially, but won't stay running. ICP volts and pressure are well within specs. I even tried a known good CMP just for shits and giggles (that's what the customer blames it on). Same fucking thing!!! What next?

The vehicle isn't here now. It was in Saturday, but I was busy fixing another one that was towed in at the time. I just pulled the VIN off the vehicle and sure enough, this truck IS built after 10/25/99 which calls for the DY-876 module you guys speak of. And yes, I've have couple that have only flagged one specific cylinder for a glow plug fault that ended up being the GPCM. Luckily, I have a tester GPCM in my arsenal to verify that with. I'm only missing a 7.3L IDM. Like I said, this truck is owned by a Chinaman (surprised this thing doesn't have a Honda or Toyota badge?)who speaks as good as no English, so I sure as hell have no intention of trying to go into too much technical detail explaining what these parts are and their purposes. I think the guy only cares about why his MIL light is on, and how much it will cost to fix it.

That's my point. I'm getting a P1298 WITHOUT P1662/P1663/P1667/P1668 DTCs. At $1500, I want to be DAMN sure that the IDM is needing replacement. This truck is owned and driven by Chinaman (isn't that unusual?), and there is DEFINITELY a language barrier. I don't think money is an issue, but not having any pinpoint test to go by doesn't help either. P0676 is for a cylinder #6 glow plug circuit. This vehicle doesn't have any difficulty cold-starting apparently, nor any driveability complaint, so I'm not too concerned about that, mainly the MIL light.

Now, I'm really wishing I had a known good IDM to play with. I got one here that flags P1298 on-demand on KOEO on-demand and KOEO injector buzz. P0470 & P0676 in CM on both KOEO and KOER on-demand. Vehicle exhibits no driveability issues. I'm guessing the P0470 is because it needs an EBP due to 13.99 volts reading @ KOEO. The P0676 doesn't bother me too much, but I'm guessing P1298 is the reason for the MIL light on. Pinpoint test KA is of no help, since I'm not getting a P1667. It just says replace IDM. Any thoughts? Damn, I wish I had more 7.3L experience.

I got one here with the two DTCs listed in the thread title. When vehicle first came in, it also flagged those two DTCs on the buzz test. Injector #4 sounded faint compared to the other seven. Replaced injector and reran self-test. Engine ran smooth and DTCs didn't return.........until today. Also showing a P1316 in memory. An IDM wouldn't cause this would it? This is one of those moments I'm wishing I had a tester IDM to play with. Unit has 745,000 kms. Truck looks clean under the hood, like it's been maintained well. UVC wiring looked good when I had the valve cover off.

WTF is going on over there? Now, he has moved the thread about the "Powerstroke Mob" back to the F-series forum. I'm guessing this thread sat in "V8 Cafe" for awhile. I'm not allowed in there but who gives a rat's fuck.

I can relate to that very well, believe me.

That's exactly the problem I'm having. The shop foreman and I spent hours trying to get the tool to work without success. It doesn't even appear to compress the spring 1mm.

I have one here that I can't seem to compress the valve spring enough to save my life. This would be tool number 303-1039 for a 5.4L 3-valve V8. Cylinder #5 exhaust valve decided to break. Now, the vehicle sits in my bay until I can figure out a way to compress the spring far enough to install the keepers.

When removing the body mount bolts on these puppies, you have to heat up the nut with the "flame wrench" a little. If not, the rubber pucks absorb the impact blows and laugh at you. Yes, the front seats have to come out to access the back two, but seat removal is very easy.

You CAN remove the right side engine mount to do the job, if you wish. To me, it just seems to be more of a pain in the ass. At least if you remove the cab mount bolts, the front seats will be out already, making for extra working space. Just make sure if you do by this method you jack the body up at the channel underneath with a block of wood between the jack and the body. Don't forget too remove the ICP sensor of course.

Remove the six body mount bolts, and jack the body up a couple of inches to get the necessary clearance.

I feel for you bud. I've had the pleasure of replacing two with the aftermarket refrigeration compressors bolted to them too. Hence my signature.