mchan68

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Just curious. Have you verified water pump flow? I know I definitely WOULDN'T be pulling head(s)/engine assembly on an E-series unless I HAD TO with 100% certainty!

That is correct. 9438A 2.0. Whether or not that is actually fair is another story.

That's what I meant, yes. As in, NO LONGER SERVICED.

EBP, EGR and ICP all share the same v-ref circuit if I'm not mistaken. Take a look at your wiring diagram.

Did I read right? 7C3Z-5H221-CA indicates NOT REPLACED on the Ford side. So what happens if I break off another EGT_13 sensor or the DPF itself does actually need replacing?

Is there a way to verify this BEFORE replacing the HPOP?

Are those the ones with TWO timing belts, one for the cam at the front of the engine, and one for the fuel injection pump at the rear? This was the engine offered some time in eighties on Escort/Lynx, Tempo/Topaz and Rangers ONLY IN THE SATES, correct?

Well guys, I have a 2003 here as well. This one I replaced the long block back in July 2007 at 120,000 kms. (around 70,000 miles) after two injectors let go, hydrolocking it. Fast forward to last week, and 80,000 kms. (about 50,000 miles) later to around 200,000 kms. (120,000 miles), it comes in with a cracked water pump impeller and cylinders #2 and #7 low. Owner is needless to say, PISSED beyond my ability to describe. Just as I am in the middle of discussing options with the owner about how to get out of this mess, my SM runs out into the shop and says to the owner, "you must have horseshoes up your ass. Ford says it's covered!". He then directs to ME, "Mike, tear it apart 'till you get to the failed part". Not wanting to take my SM's word, I call up one of my former co-workers and he informs me just as I am thinking, NO WAY Ford is going to cover it. Later that evening, my SA and I stayed 'till almost 10pm brainstorming the warranty and policy manual just to make sure (I didn't begin tearing it down at that point YET). The next day, I approach my SM first thing in the morning to press him to confirm or get some kind of iron clad approval for teardown. He later comes out into the shop and says, "tear it apart". So I do, and just as I suspect, the water pump is done. I pull bank #1 cylinder head to find the other three cylinders appear normal. #7 piston looks clean and the cylinder head itself shows a very clear imprint of the piston top. Turning the engine over by hand reveals slack in movement on piston #7 which tells me either the rod bearing has let go, or the wrist pin. At this point it is when I decide that there is no need to disassemble further. Draining the oil revealed metallic particles (probably bearing material). Now the waiting game begins, with this guy's truck in my bay, cab up in the air and engine apart somewhat, disabling my bay. The next day, I am told that it WON'T be covered!!! After couple of days and now word on what the next course of action is, I get fed up with waiting, and lowered the body back on using 4 of the 8 cab bolts to resecure. Hooked up the steering, brakes and shifter, and pushed this pile of scrap metal outside. It took me more time pricing engine parts, long block and scrapyard engine than the actual wrench time on this vehicle, while other work was piling outside, waiting for me to get to. Now comes the next big joke of the day. My SM asked me yesterday how much it would cost, and what would be involved with putting in a GAS engine into this guy's truck?

Like already mentioned above, FICM failures can cause numerous symptoms from no-starts to "runs like a bag of shit". I too, have had FICM failures that have set NO DTCs, to having all eight injector circuit and contribution codes and/or P0611 and P1378 set, but most important of all, when monitoring FICM_L/FICM_M/FICM_V PIDs and see all three dropping as I attempt to start the engine and/or increase engine RPM, to me that's a telltale sign of a FICM failure. This is provided that battery voltage is good, as well as all circuits associated. As far as the two TX-30 high pressure oil rail bolts are concerned, my Blue Point angled bit driver works just fine.

If it is in any way similar to a Fusion, it's actually not bad at all. I did a head gasket on a Fusion about over a year ago, and actually MADE time on it, even being the first one (and the only one).

It could be worse. I am currently awaiting approval for ANOTHER engine on a 2003 truck that I replaced the first engine at 120,000 kms. and drove 80,000 kms. without further issue until two days ago. Now, this truck is stuck in my bay with the cab up in the air awaiting approval (at 202,000 kms. !!!), which even if granted, I won't be able to get it for at least 6 to 7 business days (no stock)!!! Like your truck, mine too is a salter and plow truck about to lose his contracts because of this mess, while I'm about to lose my shirt for the next week or two, scrambling to find other bays to work out of!!!

I lift the cab and pull the tranny, leaving the engine in the chassis. So far, I haven't had any issues with doing it using this method.

2003 F-350 that I replaced the FQR engine at 120,000 kms. for a hydrolock, 16 months ago now back at 203,000 kms. for a water pump failure and cylinders #2 and #7 rod bearings wiped out, with the cab in the air (downing my bay) waiting for an approval for replacement which will take 6 to 7 days to arrive if I get the "green light" from Ford. 2008 F-250 growing plants outside waiting for an EGR valve and housing to arrive. 2006 F-350 City Of Toronto truck for an EBP and reflash. 2004 F-350 from an outside garage in for unknown starting issues cold. And in rolls a 2000 Lincoln LS V8 that sounds louder than a 6.0L diesel cold started in -30 degree temperatures.

Just curious. What was that priced at? Does it actually work?

Speaking of bore scopes, I just purchased this model from Snap-On: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?...mp;dir=catalog. Does anyone else have any experience with using this particular tool? Is it useful for 6.0L or 6.4L applications?

It's been a rough week. I just finished a two day classroom course for the the Escape Hybrid in Mississauga. On Tuesday, one of my classmates got a phone call from his workplace. Apparently parts guy, in the process of unloading their daily order also sustained serious injury. A cage full of E-series DRW hub and rotor assemblies caught the rear tailgate of the truck as it was being lowered and fell on top of the guy. Injuries sustained were ALL ribs broken, collar bone broken and internal organ(s) punctured causing internal bleeding. This is just one day before the incident in the above post occured. Then yesterday morning, one of my other fellow classmate's Taurus ruptured his brake line of his way into school. It couldn't have happened at a worse time, when it was/is -15 degrees where we are right now.

Well, today an E-450 came in on the hook as a no-start. CMDTCs P0678, P0683, P0611, P1378, P0275. Unit is an '07 with only 54,263 kms. (33,717 miles). Only clicks when I went to try to start it. So, I go to boost it. Miraculously, I was able to fire it up. Once it fired up, I monitored all the PIDs and FICM_L/FICM_M/FICM_V all remained nice and steady at 13/48/13. When doing the KOER test, I noticed that after the engine RPM decrease back to engine idle speed, it didn't give me the usual "hiccup" just before the test concluded. IIRC, that "hiccup" is the glow plug system running a test? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. So, just for shits and giggles I ran a glow plug system monitoring KOER test, and sure enough, P0678 and P0683 were the hard faults. After following pinpoint test AF, it led me to replace the GPCM. My question is, can a bad GPCM also set P0611 and P1378 DTCs, even if the FICM checks out GOOD?

Explain to customer that this is a normal strategy used by the PCM to bring TFT up quicker during cold soak (lower TCC duty cycle, trans. cooler bypass, harsher shifts etc.). As for the hard start cold. Isn't any diesel hard to start when it's cold? If there are no DTCs and everything else is within specs., do you really want to dig into an E-series, worst of all and E-series ambulance?

Hang in there and don't be discouraged or lose your cool. You're not alone. The situation you describe sounds very similar to a couple of situations I've been in myself. You just keep on doing what you're doing, fixing the problems that you can DUPLICATE. If it so happens, that it comes back AFTER the warranty expires and you are able to recreate the complaint, it is CUSTOMER PAY, PERIOD. REFUSE to work for free! It's not your fault if you were unable to recreate the symptom or complaint when the vehicle was brought in prior, as long as you did in fact, put in a concerted effort to do so. This is something that either you or your SM should be explaing to the customer. And if your SA and SM refuses to stand behind you, that's why your toolbox has wheels on it.

Not to get too far off topic again, but my biggest pet peeve of all this, is that the TSB pays the SAME, whether you replace the EGR cooler AND/OR the oil cooler OR BOTH. Maybe it's just me, but to me it seems a lot more work to replace the oil cooler, due to the need for intake manifold removal for access, on top of the messy cleanup of all residual oil in the "valley". For this reason, I suspect there are A LOT of trucks out there that techs are shortcutting the customers by replacing only the EGR cooler since a lot less work is involved, oil cooler needed or not. For me personally, I don't like seeing a vehicle back with more than one EGR cooler replacement in the Warranty Claim Report in OASIS.

Not sure if this is on topic or not, but I am curious if anyone has ever had repeat EGR/oil cooler failures? I know every truck I've replaced both coolers on so far, has never come back with a repeat failure, which makes me wonder if it's just the crap from the engine block casting making its way into the oil cooler that's causing the original failures to begin with. What about coolant filters? I know that F-650/F-750 and VT365 use them. I've never seen them myself, but often wonder if installing one would cure the failures on these trucks.

http://jalopnik.com/photogallery/10dief150spy/1002842636 I'm not terribly familiar with diesels in general, but I don't recall ever seeing any with a tachometer that reads higher than 4,000 RPM. Just my /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Merry Christmas Keith, Jim, Dwayne and all members of DTS.

This Friday past, I was approached by one of our apprentices inquiring about an old recall, 00S31 in particular. Looking at it, and the RO that was written up for it, I promptly informed him that this particular campaign had been updated shortly after its release with 01B85. For those of you who haven't been with Ford that long, 00S31 was a campaign released that involved drilling a hole in the left/rear axle spindle, to be followed by installing a wheel bearing retaining nut cap, and a left hand threaded bolt into the drilled hole. Shortly after its release, it was superceded by 01B85, which involved replacing both rear wheel bearings and installing sleeves onto the drums and seals onto the spindles. In this campaign, it CLEARLY stated that it supercedes the previously released 00S31. I pointed this out to the apprentice. Now, since these are old campaigns I was wondering exactly why this particular vehicle never had them carried out, so I took the time to run the VIN through OASIS, and low and behold I see that other recalls were just carried out recently (00S20, 00S41 to be exact). I turns out that this vehicle was involved in a front end collision a while ago, after which it sat in limbo from used car lot to used car lot. The vehicle was never written off, but remained unused for a few years and that's why these campaigns were never carried out, until some poor sucker just bought this vehicle by a shady seller, who apparently "misled" the buyer into believing there was still Ford "warranty" which applied. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif Anyhoo, I am well aware that "S" campaigns have no mileage or time limitations, and I'm pretty sure that "B" do. With that in mind, I stressed it VERY clearly to the apprentice that he should check with our warranty clerk (who wasn't in at the time) and the advisor before proceeding, just because of this. Well, the story goes that the advisor told him to go ahead with it, since this is the updated fix. Fast forward to today, apparently the claim won't go through and the apprentice is pissed that he might be getting debitted (he is flat rate), and rightfully so. I later hear a rumour that the warranty clerk has the intention of debitting ME instead, for trying to "help" the apprentice. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif One of my many questions would be WHY Ford would issue an "S" campaign, only to be superceded by a "B" campaign? And if I do get debitted, should I be punching this woman? Apparently she has it in for me, for reasons that I can't quite determine. Sorry for the rant.