mchan68

Quote: "The 7.3 pan changes can be done in 4- 6 hours. I have done them buy jacking up the cab about 6 inches. This gives enough room to jack the engine/trans up to remove the oil pan without taking off the pick-up tube." I wonder how many comebacks this guy has. Would YOU do this job for 4 to 6 hours pay? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

You say you replaced cylinder #6 injector, but what about #2 and #7? That power balance screen shot to me, indicates cylinder #6 is not pulling its weight (or not enough fuel), and #5 and #8 are reacting due to being adjacent in the engine firing order. To me, it seems like #2 and #7 are giving you more (or too much) bang for the buck. What does relative compression look like? Don't know if this is relevant, but I had an '03 6.0L in two weeks ago smoking white, running rough and losing coolant. The customer was all panicked thinking his head gaskets were blown. Did a power balance, and cylinder #4 looked virtually identical to what #2 and #7 looked like, in your screen shot. Relative compression revealed cylinder #5 down 8 to 10% in the yellow. Turned out the coolant loss was external due to leaking water pump. Replaced the water pump and cylinder #4 injector and all was well after that. Cylinder #5 also showed 0% (like all the other seven cylinders) on relative compression after the injector replacement on cylinder #4. My theory is that #5 indicating low, was due to being the adjacent cylinder in the firing order with the cylinder that had the issue.

I use a steel hollow jack handle over my johnson bar for extra leverage during the final torquing sequence.

Funny you should start a thread about this very issue. I just had TWO last week, that I ran into this very situation you mention. And like yours, the customers weren't happy campers about having to pay the $87.00 for the cap that we didn't have in stock. I have since instructed our parts department to keep at least one on hand.

AGREED. The question isn't how long it takes pulling the heads off. It's HOW do you torque the bolts PROPERLY. The last time I was ever taught the proper method for torquing bolts that are torque-to-yield specs, you are NOT supposed to stop in the middle of tightening step. I can't conceive in my mind how this would even be possible with the cab in the way.

Are you referring to E-series or F-series? If this were a situation I came across, I would tell my SM to arrange to have the overhead obstruction(s) removed, to enable cab removal (and I don't who pays or how much it costs and to whom) failing which I refuse to do the work.

With those kind of readings it's almost a given that the FICM is done. To replace requires IDS reprogramming of the new FICM, so I think it's safe to say you're better off sending it to the dealer. You may as well put an ICP sensor in it as well.

The Ford part number for an ICP sensor, for 2003 model years, is 3C3Z-9F838-EA. I have one in front of me right now. The Navistar number stamped reads as follows: 1845274 C92. Try cross referencing that with a Navistar dealer to see if anything comes up.

It is actually very easy to do, since the starter is bolted to the adapter as you are already aware. I did this awhile back, when one came in on the hook from a garage that misdiagnosed a failed starter. Removed the transmission and found the flexplate completely torn off the mating flange to the crank. Replace the flexplate, and ran the engine without the transmission bolted to it, to verify there wasn't any further damage done to it, before reinstalling the transmission.

Can you upload a video clip of this sound with the engine running and the belt off?

I seem to be getting quite a few off-make vehicles coming in for various maintenance work lately. In my years with Ford, the only tool I've figured out how to use, would be the NGS with the green card, which we all know is now obsolete. Is there anyone out there, in the know, about using IDS as such a tool, if it is even in fact possible?

Is it just me, or has anyone else encountered difficulty removing EGT 13? My first one here, and I've had to maintain cherry red heat around it, for the damn thing to even turn.

UPDATE. Customer came to pick it up this morning, despite being told that it WILL leave him stranded until the sensor is replaced. When he tried to start it, it wouldn't crank! No DTCs other than the P242D and E coming up again. WTF? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

Thanks Keith. You don't know how relieved I am after reading your post. I kind of figured that EGT 13 was definitely faulty, due to the way it would just randomly skyrocket when monitoring the three EGT PIDs. My theory with EGT 13 being the one that fails the most frequently, would be that it's the one that gets the hottest. I guess that also explains why they delay in the part to arrive. In the meantime, I did reflash the modules to the latest calibration level, which if I understand correctly, will now alert the owner that the truck is in regen, when it occurs. I really don't want to do any more than I absolutely have to, with this vehicle. He seems impatient. Thanks again for the info.

P2291/P242D/P242E in memory. Truck is also in for a coolant leak. Replace rad and install venturi tee as per SSM, easy enough. Monitor PIDs, and EGT 13 readings do seem to go wonky, so I got one on order. P2291 is what bothers me most. The complaint goes that this truck quit on the owner two days ago. He called a two truck and waited for an hour. Before the hour was up, he was able to restart the vehicle, and continue on his merry way. Oil was overfull (I know this seems to be a known concern with these vehicles), but didn't smell like fuel in it. I know I read there are issues with the HPFP cover gasket wiring. But how do you actually diagnose that? I drove this thing HARD, and couldn't get it to quit on me. FRP appears to be in specs. I know I'm green with 6.4s, so don't laugh.

Stupid question(s). WHO was the one that did this "abortion"? WHERE were parts obtained from? WHY wasn't the PCM/main engine harness "pirated" from the donor vehicle, if that's where the tranny came from? WHY didn't he just dump the truck and buy something more reliable? For the price of four tranny failures, he could easily haven gotten himself into something else for around the same /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif.

I think where the confusion lies, is in the fact that Ford calls their "locking" differentials "TRACTION-LOK", leading many to believe that they are locking units while those in the know, know very well that they're not. Generous Motors OTOH, have always used "Posi-Traction", which appears to be the more commonly used jargon for all makes. And what those "Torsen" differentials.....?

Don't know if this will help much. I had one that came in, about three years ago for an ABS light on and speedometer inop. This was on a 2000 F-350 with a 7.3L six-speed manual with rear ABS if it matters. This was a vehicle that came in from a "garage" that couldn't fix the problem before it landed in my hands. Dash was already partially disassembled, the main harness connector to the module had multiple backprobe marks on various wires. The problem in the end, was a loose main ground connection on the body fenderwell. Tightened the ground eyelet bolt, and voila, problem was fixed!

Thanks Keith, that was the one.

Does anybody know what happened to the picture of the homemade 6.0L injector tool with the bulbs? I was searching through the photos and couldn't find it. Thanks in advance.

Actually, 6E7Z-12A581-CF changes up to 6E7Z-12A581-K. The 6E7Z-9D930-BA will also have to be ordered from the US to add my /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

AMEN TO THAT!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

I haven't had time to post this week because I've had not ONE, NOT two, but FOUR cab-off repairs to carry out, two F-series and TWO E-series cubevans!!! I just finished replacing TWO engines, rads, heater cores and all rubbers this week alone. I'm not sulking, but I'm also not a particularly happy camper either.

What is the model year, 2004 I'm assuming?

What is the difference between 3C3Z-6049-CARM and 3C3Z-6049-DA? The first one changes up the other, but both are still available. The latter of the two is more than double the price.