mchan68

Call in sick Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday....... LOL. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif All kidding aside, that bites the big one!!! I'm glad I'm not the only one getting hooped with bullshit work.

Can someone check to see if 4C2Z-9S296-AA is available, or stocked by any dealer in the US? We don't show it available anywhere on the Canadian side. Thanks in advance.

How was this air test carried out? Did you supply 12 volts directly to the IPR valve?

Although I haven't personally wrenched on any LCFs for this particular issue, I believe it is very similar to the setup used on 6.0L engines. If it were me, I would've commanded IPR to 100% (or closest to), and then air tested the high pressure oil system first to isolate the leak before disassembling anything, least of all pulling the transmission like you already have. STC fittings typically blow out, causing ICP system leaks. MOST of the time, branch tube replacement is not necessary. THe update fitting is a one-piece design that eliminates the STC fitting altogether, eliminating it as a possible leak source. Usually if the branch tube requires replacement, there would be engine rear cover damage as well. Out of the hundreds of STC fitting replacements I've done, I've only ever had to replace two branch tubes. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Is the 6.2L V8 another version of the 4.6/5.4/6.8 engine family, or an ALL-NEW engine?

I just did my first set of studs on an '06 this week. Pics will be forthcoming. BOTH heads were found to be warped greater than 0.002" in multiple locations when I checked them per the TSB specs. BTW Dwayne, I tried to call you yesterday, and the receptionist informed me that you are no longer with Fourlane Ford anymore. Did you move?

One of my buddies just had an '04 E-450 in for a long block. Upon initial startup, there was ZERO compression in cylinder #4. Can you say SERVICE REPLACEMENT?

I second that. Why in the hell would you want to poke around in there needlessly? The price of the harness itself is ridiculously cheap anyways.

Funny you should rant about that. Two weeks ago, an outside garage towed an '06 truck into our shop that they attempted a "tune-up" on. Three of eight plugs were broken off in the heads. You would think they would've stopped after breaking off the first one. One of the three plugs broken off was cylinder #8 no less. That's okay. I charged them a "good coin" to remove them. I CHARGE FOR STUPIDITY.

That was the point of this post. Yes, I too have come across more than my share of screens BLOWN OUT, which is why I replace them ANYTIME I'm pulling the oil cooler for whatever reason. I think by now, we all can pretty much tell if anything has been apart before or not. And I can tell you that this particular vehicle has NEVER had the intake removed, let alone the oil cooler, which is why I too, find it odd that there was never a screen installed in it from new.

A V10 3-valve engine is the other extreme, the plugs will seize up in the heads.

I meant the screen itself, NOT EVEN THERE altogether. This one has never been apart.

I had one guy that used to buy F-series trucks from the auction who would get me to fix the "minor imperfections" while it was under warranty, and he'd slip me $50.

I've got one here getting both coolers and a new turbo missing the screen. This vehicle still has the original EGR cooler (orange hose). OASIS reveals not too many past repairs (nothing that would require oil cooler removal). Has anyone of you ever come across this before? Have you ever had further issues?

Funny. That's exactly how I take MY coffee, with NOTHING in it. A childhood habit I picked up from an uncle of mine. To this day, everyone who knows me, and knows I take my coffee this way thinks it strange.

I 2nd that.

If it was me, I would've asked that the overhead obstruction be removed, failing which I would pass on the job.

Since you say it is a "CP" job, (to mean "CP" means c*u*n*t pays, if I'm not mistaken) what are you charging for labour hours if you don't mind me asking?

Hope it works out well for you bud. Damn, and I was hoping we could get together for the part of the Christmas holidays for a pint or two /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Best of luck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Did you regulate the pressure down to about 56 psi? I believe shop air pressure is about 120 to 150 in most shops.

You can add me to list of those, impressed by the decision you made, based upon your current situation. The question one has to ask oneself is, "What is the risk-to-reward ratio?". And the next question would be, "Is it a GOOD ratio?". Off topic, this reminds me of one very good piece of advice passed on to me by one whom I thought to be a very competent tech a long time ago, the very same advice I now pass on to those who care enough to seek my opinion. AFTER ANY REPAIR IS PERFORMED, IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE RELEASING THE VEHICLE FOR ANY GIVEN REASON, DON'T. This particular topic reminds me of one of the many stresses we face in this profession. I don't know about you folks south of us, but here in Canada whenever any vehicle changes hands, a certification is required before plates are issued, and the vehicle is legal to be operated on our streets. This means that a "licensed" tech has to sign a safety certificate for everything to be legal. Which brings me to one of my biggest pet peeves about being in this profession, "friends" with shitboxes coming to us, asking us to sign a safety for them. The next one being, relatives EXPECTING us to fix their rides FOR FREE. Thank God, all my relatives drive new BMWs, Volvos and other high priced vehicles, and do not require my "services", aside from the fact that I'm not on speaking terms with any of them, which is beside the point. Anyhoo, back on topic, it's nice to know that there is still some out there who have intregity in their profession. At least your setting a good example to your daughter, that she will just have to be patient and wait a little longer 'till you have money for shoes for. This is far better than conveying the message that you STEAL for a living. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

In order for fuel to enter the cooling system on a 6.0L, I believe that the injector cup(s) AND the lower o-ring(s) has to have failed, the likelihood of which are highly slim as illustrated in this photo: Below, is a more complete view of the 6.0L cutaway that gives you a better idea of which passages are for fuel and coolant:

Stupid question. WHY in the hell would you go to all that trouble and work to install an absolute piece of garbage engine like the 6.0L, if this vehicle was already equipped with the much more robust, not to mention RELIABLE 7.3L?

Kind of reminds me of a time when another tech came to ask me how to remove the crank pulley on a 4.2L (he was doing the front cover gasket) years ago. Apparently he spent 45 minutes with the puller trying to pull the pulley off without success. I asked him to show me the pulley bolt, looked at it and walked away. About another hour and a half later, I noticed he was finally able to remove it. So I walked over and said, "it helps when you remove the washer, doesn't it?"