mchan68

Does anyone know the part numbers for two coolant hoses I can't seem to find in Microcrap. I have an '05 F-350 6.0L here that the oil cooler took a dump and swelled up all the rubber hoses. I have everything I need so far, except for the small hose that goes from the intake to the degas bottle, and the section of heater hose that junctions from the degas bottle to the engine front cover. I have the section that goes from the heater core through the metal tube to the other rubber section on the driver side. Thanks in advance.

Tried to run relative compression again this morning. Again, the engine started while in the middle of the countdown. Had a brainfart, and reattempted it, with FICM disabled. Tried to printscreen the results here, but was unable to. Not smart enough to figure out how to post IDS screen shots here. The results are cylinders #1, 4, 5, 6 & 8 are 0%. #2 & 7 are 1% which I can ignore, but #3 was down 5% and in the yellow. So, does this mean it's head(s) off?

Hey, I got potentially TWO on the go now. One on an '05 F-350 that I'm waiting for the owner to come in at 7AM to remove the utility rack in the bed, in order to enable cab removal, and of all things, an E-450 (see my post in 6.0L Discussion)!!!

Well gentlemen, rather than to start a new post, I thought it would be more appropriate to revive this one, since it pertains to this same vehicle. It appears that after I replaced both batteries RETAIL, the customer was happy enough to take the vehicle back and drive it, without returning a week later as promised to deal with the other issues.......................until today, 30,000kms. and 6 months later (unit now has 110,000kms.), when it now can't accelerate to get out of its own way, blows plumes of black out the tailpipe. After checking OASIS again, this vehicle hasn't since been to any other dealer for any other repairs. This time monitoring the EGR_VP PID revealed exactly as I suspected 3.3 volts, stuck wide open. So, after replacing the EGR valve I noticed crap that was lodged into the valve itself, is a lot harder and more greyish looking than I'm used to seeing, unlike the usual black sooty and sometimes moist consistency caused by poor fuel and/or EGR cooler failure. After replacing the valve, I proceeded to run the air management test which mandated bringing the EOT up to >185*F. Well, it didn't take 30 seconds while revving it at 3,700 RPM for it to skyrocket to 240*F and for plumes of white fumes to emit from the degas bottle, accompanied by the LOUDEST ever turbo flutter I have ever heard on any 6.0L before I tried to quickly shut it down, and the cap just shot right up out of there, showering myself and the truck with green coolant and brown shit in the process. The DTCs retrieved this time, are the same as those listed in my original post, with the exception of no more P0341, P0272 or P2291. After letting the engine cool down, I tried to do a relative compression with IDS about 5 times. All 5 of those times, the engine ended up starting while the timer was in the middle of the countdown, and up comes the error window prompting me that the test could not be completed due to "unexpected RPM change". Anyone ever have that happen before? After topping up the lost coolant from the "explosion", it didn't take long for ECT to shoot up to about 250ish*F while EOT shot up to about 220*F. It's funny how the TSB tells us to replace the oil cooler if the EOT is more than 25*F greater than ECT. Has anyone else ever had ECT increase to that much higher than EOT? Looking at the degas bottle, you see the brownish colour and smell to it, exactly like what you would see and smell on any '96 to'99 Taurus 3.0L OHV, unlike the greyish mud you find typically on any 6.0L where oil and coolant marry. Funny thing too, as I attempted to run a KOER test, it booted me out of it right away again, flagging the same P1284 as previously listed, but on the second attempt it went through with the same CMDTCs as listed above. So, I monitored the ICP/IPR/RPM PIDs for a couple minutes with wiggle testing the ICP/EBP connectors figuring maybe that recall for the two might have been poorly carried out. And wiggle testing failed to cause any type of reaction (ICP stayed steady at 580ish while IPR at 22% which is normal). SOOOOOOOOOO..........what do you think, am I pulling heads on this one gents? PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me no!!! Not on an E-450 cubevan /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif! All kidding aside, I'm thinking I should be fixing the turbo issues (clean or replace depending on what I find when I take it apart) and replacing both coolers FIRST, and then driving it with a pressure gauge connected to see if it still pukes coolant, which if it still does, it's heads off? Or, do you guys think I should be pulling heads right off the bat?

F0TZ-3070-A for the slinger as it's called in Microcat for the one that goes between the pinion seal and the outer pinion bearing. F0TZ-3070-C for the "baffle" as it's called in Microcat.

Yes. I believe they are four tamper proof Torx heads. And no, you don't need to touch the engine mount. If you were to be removing all injectors on that bank, cylinder #3 is the last injector to remove, and the first one to re-install.

It is cylinder #3. And yes I agree with that method. Look on the bright side, it's a 7.3L ambulance and not a 6.0L.

I couldn't agree more. The "added" time taken to re & re the cab is more than made up for, in the time subtracted once the cab is out of the way to enable access to properly torque the fasteners and re-install all the components without resorting to hackery. No more was this more evident, than when another tech (trying to prove to me that cab-removal was "unecessary") in my shop tried removing the heads from an F-150, eventually getting approval for a long block from Ford, and taking between double to TRIPLE the time I would've taken, if I had gotten the job. In the end, almost all the wiring and the firewall insulation was completely hacked up after the job was finished, not to mention the moaning, groaning and swearing that the whole shop had to endure while the job was being carried out.

Cab off is the best and ONLY way to go for me if I'm pulling heads or the engine.

Well guys, I finally got this thing all buttoned up today and drove it home with IDS hooked up, paying particular attention to my ECT/EOT PIDs. Even under HARD acceleration, neither went higher than 206*F, so I guess it's fixed. Hallelujah !!! Here is what was found on the NEW screen that I replaced with the cooler ...and here are two shots of what the IPR valve looked like after I replaced the cooler, the first time around. Now, can you just imagine what would happen if this were a RETAIL oil cooler replacement, and this happened? Who would be paying for the labour and subsequent parts failure?

Here you go guys, more spy photos and interesting write-up. http://jalopnik.com/398842/20095-ford-f+150-diesel-spotted-could-produce-350-hp

Well, apparently it hasn't been corrected. After tearing it apart and draining the reservoir (while making a huge mess of my bay in the process), there was very little if any grit on the new screen that I had replaced. After consulting with one of my "go to" guys on the phone, he suggested cranking the engine over with the IPR removed, and the turbo oil feed tube blocked off, to try and purge the residual crap left inside. When I cranked the engine over, virtually nothing came out of the IPR port, which I guess means the HPOP is trashed. Can't wait 'till Tuesday to get back to this (Monday is a holiday for us).

Now, the next question goes: Who or how am I going to get paid for tearing this thing apart again? Who's paying for the expensive new synthetic oil that I just changed, expecting to have it up and running?

What little injector adventure? Now you got me curious.

I would be replacing it, if it were pushed out far enough to damage the rear cover.

Well, after being on and off this vehicle several times throughout the course of the day. I was finally able to air-test is again, this time PROPERLY (the laptop was DEAD after the other guys used it throughout the course of the day). No air leak. Tore it down to where I could access and remove the IPR. The screen was completely sucked in with LOTS of metal (or sand) particles. Got on the phone to coldline, and was told that there have been some cases of "casting material" left in the oil coolers out-of-box. Here is the call log:

Jim would love me for this, but I would definitely call this RTFM, or as Jim would call it, "the world's most expensive unread book".

Well, I changed both coolers as well as the STC fitting update. As soon as I fired her up, it started idling erratically, but calmed down. As soon as I drove it out the door, it quit and would not restart. ICP now goes up to 3 psi while cranking. Pushed it back into the shop. Re-air tested. Slight leak heard from right bank. Another injector blew its top? It is worthy to mention it won't hold residual pressure. As soon as key is shut down, fuel pressure drops almost immediately. The fuel filters were dirty, but nothing out of the ordinary. This is after I already drove it home last night with no issues. I guess it's coming back apart in the morning.

That's only on automatic equipped trucks. Manual transmission models didn't use the adapter plate on 7.3L engines. On the 6.0L, the rear engine cover IS the adapter plate for both automatic and stick.

Cylinders #6 and #8 are next to each other on the driver side bank, at the very back. On relative compression, anything up to 5% loss I can ignore, but more than that there is definitely a base engine issue. How does power balance look?

Well, after catching up with a few of my other "appointments", I finally had the chance to go and view the actual PIDs while trying to get this thing to fire cold. For this first time (for me), I was unable to start it using an "alternative fuel source" and noticed ICP would only climb as high as 13 psi with IPR# maxed out at 85%. Rather than chance overheating the starter, I told my SM to arrange to have it towed into my bay. I thought okay, another badly blown STC. As soon as I pressured it up, I heard a LOUD leak from bank #1, so I thought, okay another dummy rail plug. NOT! Came across my first injector to blow its top just like you see in the photos in the articles under ICP leaks. That explains why the ICP leak issues on this vehicle at such low mileage (47,650 kms.). Replaced the injector, air tested again, this time no leak. Get it all buttoned up. Onto repair #2, complaint of coolant blowing out of degas bottle. Pressure tested the cooling system, no sign of pressure loss even after 45 minutes with the pressure tester hooked up. Check and adjusted coolant to proper level. Drove the vehicle home and noticed the fan clutch cycling off and on through a couple stretches of the highway portion of the journey. Sure enough, as soon as I arrived home to check the coolant, man oh man did that cap ever make a loud POP!!! My question is, can an EGR/oil cooler fail at such low mileage, let alone head/gasket issues? I remember reading a thread somewhere, where someone here mentioned the possibility of the EGR cooler passing a visual and pressure test, but would fail when up to operating temperature. Could this be the case here? If it is an EGR cooler tomorrow, should I also replace the STC fitting with the update since I'm "in there" already?

Well, guys I got yet another coming in on the hook. What catches my attention is that it's an '07 model year. I thought that all '07 model years come from the factory already equipped with the one-piece HPOP outlet. Another thing that I find interesting is he also requested to have an oil change done with 5W40 synthetic. Is there any possibility that oil might be too thin to run in these ambient temperatures during this time of year? Could that contribute to the no-start due to being too thin of a grade, making it more difficult to build and maintain ICP?

I would be more inclined to agree with that.