mchan68

Okay, am I reading this right? I'm trying to look up a complete 6K682 for an '05 E-350. According to Microcrap, it lists only a 4C3Z-9G489-AARM CHRA assembly available. WTF? Are 6.0L turbos going obsolete already? The VIN for the vehicle in question is 1FTSS34P25HA27124, BTW if that matters.

That doesn't surprise me in the least bit. Given that any job that rolls into our shop that presents ANY kind of "challenge" always seems to migrate into my hands. I guess that's how I got weasled into being the "diesel bitch" at my store. For the record, I won't refuse to work on any vehicle that I have reasonable access to, and when I say reasonable access, I don't necessarily mean a vehicle that I can lift on my hoist. If a vehicle is impossible to bring inside the shop due to its length, I don't mind changing a drive belt or battery outside, but ask me to pull cylinder head(s) on said vehicle THAT is another story..... Hmmmm, let me guess, this wouldn't happen to have been Formula Ford would it, given its close proximity to your doorstep? And for the record, I have never said I REFUSE to work on E-Series PERIOD. I just said that I don't enjoy working on them.

Aaaahhhhh, the devil is in the details. Now that we have clarified that it is an F-Series NOT an E-Series, that changes the spin on things a little. YES, I believe it IS possible on an F-Series (I've just never done it that way personally), but it's TIGHT from what I've read.

As far as I could tell, the ARP product number for 6.0L head studs is 250-4202: As far as installing in cab, if I read correctly, you are referring to an E-Series, correct? If so, I can't imagine why you would want to put yourself through the torture of even THINKING about attempting this in cab (which is impossible by the way). At the very least, if you choose to leave the cab bolted to the chassis, you will have to do it the "dirty way" pulling the engine out the front, doing it out of vehicle.

I don't mind working on the floor. That's how I had to work on motorhomes, replacing cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds on the old 460s that would warp and crack. I actually got pretty good at doing them too, before the dealer closed down. Now, if the vehicle is too LONG to bring inside the shop, that's a whole 'nother story .....

Well, I didn't realize how simple it was to replace this pump. After replacement, I grounded pin #72 at the PCM to verify pump operation. Let it warm up outside, and life is good so far. I'm still curious as to why this part failed. I didn't have to refill the system much more than a very slight top-up. Given the fact that NOTHING was disturbed during rad replacement, it still leaves me wondering.

That is EXACTLY what this truck is doing. Thanks Chris. And boy what a smoke show this thing sure puts out when it's doing it's thing.

Why not go to autotrend.us and ask good old Rex, since he's the "expert" on Mercedes stuff?

Hey GENTS. I have one here, a late-build 2004 that I replaced a long block about two years ago at 138,000 kms. under warranty for a catastrophic oil into coolant contamination. Vehicle is now back at 173,000 kms. complaining of intermittent bogging down during acceleration. Got codes P0299, P0407, P0488, P0603 and P1334 in CM, both on KOEO and KOER. Passes IDS EGR test. Only out-of-spec PID noticed was a slightly higher EBP reading at KOEO, but still within acceptable range. I know there's a TSB for a reflash to address P0407 and P0488 (for which one is available for this particular truck). Carried out pinpoint test AX, and all seems to point to replacing the EGR throttle plate assembly. I did notice that at KOEO, the throttle plate does seem to randomly sweep between FULL open and FULL close uncommanded. This makes sense that the truck would bog down if the throttle plate were to close uncommanded, setting DTC P0299. While monitoring PIDs, I did notice that EBP and MAP/MGP go wonkers when it bogs down as the engine revs up. Just curious if anyone else has ever run into this, or had to replace an EGR throttle plate for this concern before? Only reason for asking, is because it's now retail.

Sorry to hear about your luck. Did you think about my offer? We are moving into a MUCH bigger place where you can crash while you recover, if need be.

Okay, so it's not just me. I've had SEVERAL 6.0L trucks for weekend road tests. The majority of them were autos, and maybe three or four that I recall were manuals. I always thought that the manual versions SHOULD be peppier, but I've actually felt the opposite. It seems like all the manual trucks had for weekends actually felt quite sluggish off the line when compared to the auto trucks. Could this be due to the extremely low gearing of 1st and 2nd gears perhaps?

I checked the level. It was full. Nothing on that system was touched (except maybe the cooler itself moved out of the way).

Okay. Here's the situation. I have one here that I was told by my SM to replace the radiator on (despite the fact it wasn't leaking). Apparently, the owner has a fleet of 2008s that he will be looking into trading in for 2011s. The vehicle has 62,000 kms. on the clock. Despite the fact that he's over on kms. I was told to put it through warranty (and again, despite the fact that it didn't show any signs of leaking). After following that TSB while monitoring ECT/EOT, there was nothing to indicate any issue with the T-STAT. As I pointed this out to my SM, he says, "just put a rad in it". Okay, fast forward a couple days after the repair, the vehicle comes back, with the owner complaining of a howling noise which I quickly pinpointed to the fuel/turbo VGT actuator coolant pump as the source. Of course, the owner is blaming this problem on me, and claims that "it wasn't like that before the repair". Just curious, but has anyone else ever run into this issue before after a rad replacement? After checking the base part number of the pump, I noticed that it is NOT covered under warranty for this particular truck. All this because the SM wants to kiss this guy's ass (or suck his dick depending on how you want to see it), AT MY EXPENSE.

I don't even want to go there.

.....and can handle corners like a go-kart at previously unthinkable speeds, get 20 mpg CITY, and produce almost ZERO on HC/CO/NOx emissions, ALL IN THE SAME SENTENCE.

Penis Extension.

Jim, you don't remember these trucks do you, by any chance since we're on this topic?http://dodge-semis.com/Brochures/1966COE/cover.jpg

Just make sure that when you attempt to remove the sensor, have that bung on the DPF glowing cherry red as you work it loose. Several techs (myself included) have ended up replacing the DPF being unable to remove it without damaging it.

There is a TSB for the cage nut spinning that you claim MT time on, as well as the 6005PA labour op.

I'm kind of curious myself, as to what the purpose is, to have two different exhaust and turbo setups on cab & chassis models versus pickups.

.....and how many late '04 to '07 6.0Ls do we have out there with '03 turbos on it, just for the whistle?

Perhaps he figures he'll be able to get more boost utilizing this setup, albeit a hack job at that?

THANKS FOR THE HINT. I'll have to remember that one, when I go to class in May. Just kidding. So was it Dave Young who instructed the course for you?