mchan68

I wasn't too sure if I was going to post this in the Parts section or the 6.0L section, but since it obviously pertains to 6.0L engines I guess I'll post it here. It seems like we have been having A LOT of 6.0L owners buying these like hot cakes lately. Just curious if anyone has any opinions to express. Here's the link: http://www.swampsdiesel.com/xtcommerce/index.php?cat=c83_Custom-Electronics.html Notice that you have a choice between a 48 volt FICM and a 58 volt FICM.

NOPE.

In the driveway, with the bumper about less than an 1/8" from touching the garage door handle, and the rear of the bumper overhanging half of the sidewalk. The roof of the cab was less than an inch from touching under the balcony.

Thanks for the info guys. Due to the physical size of this vehicle, it is impossible for me to bring into the shop to do further testing on. The parts manager asks me, "so what do I TELL them to replace?" I just looked at him and said, "look, they obviously want this truck fixed, so they need to follow the pinpoint tests that I printed off for them". I even loaned out my block-off tools for them, if they want to go through with it. I'd be leaning more toward the IPR according to what I saw in the pinpoint test, since I did notice the IPR duty cycle reaching up close to 65% a couple of times. But oh well, I'll leave it up to them.

I have nothing against E-Series vans. As long as they don't come equipped with a 6.0L. I hardly think the Transit is EVER going to be able to handle the same loads as the E-series. A Focus wagon could haul heavier loads than those POS in my opinion.

Okay, they finally brought this piece of shit to us. I scanned it. And yes, it IS P1211. I was granted permission to drive this vehicle home for the night with IDS connected (due to the fact the MIL only illuminates when highway speeds are reached). After running a self-test I erased the DTC, and made my merry way home with the vehicle, and as I entered the freeway on-ramp the MIL illuminated. As I glanced over my at my PIDs, I did happen to notice IPR duty cycle up at 64 and change %. Once up to highway speeds between 100 to 120 km/h (that's about 62 to 70 mph for you U.S. folks), I noticed ICP hovering around 2300 or so psi while IPR duty cycle would hover between 25 to 50 % under various throttle inputs. Intermittently, they would increase to around 64 and change when under WOT acceleration. After I exitted the freeway, I did notice IPR duty cycle at a steady 8.98% at idle (EOT at 198*F). ICP psi PIDs (and there are two of them) would fluctuate around 470 or so. The only thing I will say though, is this thing is GUTLESS. Off the line city acceleration is "adequate", but at highway speeds it SUCKS (maybe I'm too used to 6.0L/6.4L trucks, or it's unique to E-550 trucks being it was my first time behind the wheel of one). At about 80 km/h (about 50 mph), you floor it and this thing will take decades to accelerate to 110 or 120 km/h (around 70 to 75 mph). Looking through pinpoint tests KE I notice there are two different fuel pressure specs listed. I tend to believe the 45psi MINIMUM spec at idle and 45 to 80 under WOT full load. Revving the engine to redline for three minutes, ICP never exceeds 1500psi which puts it well below the 1800 limit. But, what I did notice was the absence of a spec for high pressure oil pump output with both high pressure oil lines removed and the pump dead-headed. Is there a spec for this? Also, there seems to be two ICP psi PIDs on these. Is there a reason for this? At KOEO, I get ICP volts at 0.24 and one ICP psi PID reads 0, but the other reads about 10? Vehicle is a 2003 E-550 with 372,000 kms. (about 250,000 miles) that just had a new drop-in 6007 engine replaced a couple weeks ago.

Okay, I was strolling through our parts department today to look for a hardware part (it's self-serve for me), and when I happened upon a bin full of dummy rail plugs -W302195 (I make our parts manager stock a few of those), I also happened upon another set of dummy rail plugs I hadn't seen before. These are the exact same looking dummy rail plugs as aforementioned, except that they have a white plastic seal beneath each d-ring with part number -W302908 I believe it is. Is this some sort of change up that I'm unaware of?

Well, after testing those two sensors, with the 150 to 190 Hz readings for CKP and 1.1 to 1.9 Hz that Hotline gave me, I ended up with CKP readings of 150 and change, and 1.2 and change for the CMP, dead smack within those specs listed. I checked those readings with both my own CKP and CMP pigtails, as well as at pins 30, 31, 41 and 43 at C1381C achieving similar readings. Shooting it with Brake Clean managed to get it fired up and stay running on its own accord. A little wiggling of the harness at the ICP sensor area caused it to sputter, fart and quit. Soooooo, a harness, FICM and MAP sensor later, life is all good again. Meanwhile, Hotline was almost insistent upon me pulling the pan (which would've ended up being wasted time).

I used to just raise the front of the vehicle up in air just to the point where the rear bumper was about less than an 1/8" from touching the ground with a funnel inserted into the rad filler neck. I just didn't have the patience to mess with the bleeder screw on the intake or the five page WSM procedure. Worked every time too.

F-350 Regular Cab 4x4.

RPM increases only to 35 MAX RPM and intermittently drops to ZERO (even though the shop already replaced a CKP and CMP sensor). FICM SYNC and SYNC fail to switch from 'NO' to 'YES' despite good battery voltage Which I call bullshit on. I had two booster sources hooked up while cranking the engine over, and I can tell you that it's easily cranking better than 150 RPMs if not more. I have a couple of old 12B637 harnesses laying around that I might snip the CKP pigtail and the PCM female pins out of, to overlay the circuit on Monday before I dig into the pan. Even though both the CKP and CMP circuits check out good, I guess it's something else I can check quickly. I just have this awful feeling that pulling the pan isn't going to reveal much if anything.

Hello gents. I have one here sent to us by a good parts customer. They've borrowed my 'tester' FICM and it failed to start. They've replaced the CMP and CKP sensor without success. When I got to it, I monitored my usual favourite 6.0L no-start PIDs and found the following: MAP reading at 13.95 psi (lower than the other two, but insignificant) ICP psi and volts well within specs at KOEO and while cranking, even though P2285 and P2286 were set FICM PIDs dropping out as weak. (I ran a buzz test and got all eight injector circuit low DTCs typical of that of a FICM failure. Plugged mine in, and I hear a good strong buzzing and passes buzz test) RPM increases only to 35 MAX RPM and intermittently drops to ZERO (even though the shop already replaced a CKP and CMP sensor). FICM SYNC and SYNC fail to switch from 'NO' to 'YES' despite good battery voltage I ohmed out both the CMP and CKP circuits at C1381C (PCM connector) with 839 ohms on the CMP and 369 ohms on the CKP (WELL WITHIN SPECS) I even swapped a known good PCM temporarily for shits and giggles and got the same readings My question now, is where do I go with this? I know that '04 model years are pretty notorious for engine harness failures, but this would contradict the fact that I have GOOD ohm readings wouldn't it? This leaves the crank sensor tone ring as the only thing possible that could be suspect, correct? There is a P0336 set in memory, which is consistent with the erratic RPM readings while cranking the engine over. Vehicle is a late-build 2004 with 87,000 kms. on it (about 50,000 and change miles).

I kind of suspected it to be snake oil too. Thanks for your input gents. I guess these guys should be "kicked to the curb" just like Jehovah's Witnesses.

Hi gents. My parts manager is hounding me on this one now too. I've been too busy at work this last couple of weeks to take on any more BS jobs, so here it goes. Apparently, our parts department sold this shop 6007 drop-in engine assembly for a bus. Ever since installation, apparently the MIL illuminates and sets a P1212. No driveability issues, just the MIL. Apparently, it only sets at speeds over 100km/h (62mph). I told the parts manager to tell them to monitor the ICP volts PID at KOEO. I don't quite remember what the spec is. Is there anything else I should be telling them to do? This thing is too long to bring to our shop, and quite frankly, I don't feel like doing any warranty on any job that someone else did retail.

THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT.

Okay, call me an idiot if you will. But what (if any) is the benefit to removing the fan stator (other than making it easier for DIYers to change a drive belt on the side of the road)? Funny enough, I just had one such truck darken my doorstep yesterday. http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73075&highlight=remove+fan+shroud

My parts manager approached me today, on the idea of moving this product on all diesels that darken our doorstep, as a means of "generating potential income". Before I gave him my blessing, I thought I'd pass this onto all of you for your opinion. This is the product: http://www.tunap.com/en/ranges/automotive/service.html Apparently, one of the additives is added to the fuel tank, while the other is added elsewhere (where escapes me for the moment). I've heard of horror stories with using some aftermarket additives, or other non-Ford approved services being tried, so I now seek the opinions of my fellow experts. Any and all are welcomed and greatly appreciated.

Okay gents. Let's have a show of hands. Do you rate the 2011 Ford Police Interceptor a thumbs UP or thumbs DOWN? http://www.fordvehicles.com/fordpoliceinterceptor/ I give it a HUGE thumbs DOWN. NOTHING will ever replace a v8 propelling the REAR wheels in my opinion.

For 6.4L, I believe there's a part number change to FD-4617.

Regarding #2, I've replaced more than my share of CMP sensors and synchros on 3.8L Windstars for driveability issues. And yes they will squeel exactly like a belt when they fail. The 4.2L V6 is just same as the 3.8L in a Windstar so I think a CMP sensor and syncho will fix it. Regarding #1, I agree with Buddy_M's method for retrieving the boot.

It looks like you're SOL if it's the older style with the two connectors into the valve cover gasket, because no such pigtail exists, according to the information I have.

What is the model year?

Are you sure it's not the primary drive belt tensioner we are talking about? I don't get too many 6.4Ls (Thank God), but on nearly all that have darkened my doorstep lately, ALL have become misaligned with more than a few that have skewered the belts (kinda like the 7.3Ls used to).

LOL. Yup Aaron, you remembered didn't you? That particular truck was an '03 that racked up about 80,000 kms. (50,000 miles) after the reman engine installation before it came in with the water pump impeller shot. If you want to try something quick, you can disconnect hose from the intake manifold to the degas bottle, at the bottle. Start the engine to check for coolant exiting the hose. If you see coolant exiting right away, in a good steady flow, then the water pump is working as it should.