mchan68

So, far I've been fortunate. ALL but only ONE truck so far has only needed heads. And this truck had only just had the EGR cooler replaced less than two weeks ago at White Oak (or is that White Joke?) Ford/Lincoln, before it landed on my doorstep needing heads and BOTH coolers. The rest have all only needed either only the EGR or both coolers. And so far, NONE have come back. Mind you, I always request authorization from the customer to drive the vehicle home after the repair, in order to burn off all the residual coolant left in the exhaust system. BTW, I know this may sound like a stupid question, but I'm assuming that EVERYONE here replaces that oil screen under the cooler, whenever you have it out, RIGHT?

Yes, Keith I know it was a little "excessive" on my part to use the term "meatball" in my original reply that Aaron copied and pasted in this thread. What got under my skin was how this poster had the nerve to come to a public forum, accusing the dealer for reflashing his PCM, when his wife brought his truck in for an oil change, and then going on to ask for "help" from the very same people he bashed with his "$85 an hour rip-off mechanic" comment. THAT, was what spoke very loudly and clearly of this guy, and most guys attitude that you can see when you make eye contact with them as they are interacting with you.

Was that retail or warranty? What is the warranty for hydrid components for you guys down south anyways? It's 8 years/160,000 kms. for us. I just replaced an electric coolant pump about two weeks ago. Couldn't believe it wasn't covered.

I've had TWO so far, that have had issues after the CMP replacement. One caused a no-start right away. The other was on a cubevan, where the guy brought the truck back screaming bloody murder that his truck wouldn't accelerate past 40 km/h (about 25 mph for you guys down south). Both times replacing with the original sensor fixed the problems.

Do my eyes deceive me, but looking more closely at the picture, it seems like the exhaust exits on the INBOARD side (between the "VEE"), and then out the back of the engine to where the turbos seem to be located on the outboard side of the cylinder heads? That's a weird setup if you ask me.

It's nice to know I'm not the only one in that same boat. Things have gotten so bad at my shop, that 9 times out of 10, I don't even bother answering my page for phone calls anymore. I find it interesting that Aaron would start a thread about this topic. Luckily, one of our SA has taken to "screening" all my phone calls. The straw that broke the camel's back for me was on one job where I had the high pressure oil rail removed on an E-series (for an injector I think). I got paged to take a call. It was one of "those" calls. Got back to my job, buttoned up the valve cover, started reinstalling the CAC and inlet hoses, and there I see all nine of those TX-30 bolts for the rail sitting on my bench laughing at me. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

YUP, just like the EGR valve TSB thing. First they tell us NOT to replace them without trying to clean and retest first. Now, they just tell us to replace. And then, as Aaron's signature reads, "Hotline recommended: Keep replacing egr valves until one passes the test or stops setting egr codes." So what's next?

Just like 04F250harley is a meatball? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif

What kind of engines were they equipped with? I heard they were all gassers. 477/534 cu. in.? I would hate to have to pay for the fuel to keep one of those monsters gassed up at today's fuel prices!

I had one leak A LOT of oil from the front cover area a few months back. This too was an '04 model year 6.0L. This was one of the rare retail 6.0L jobs I had.

I had an '05 F-350 about two years ago, that took two visits for me to verify and identify the symptom and the cause. The complaint and symptom was exactly as you describe. And just like yours, it was very intermittent in nature, leaving no DTCs to look at and very difficult to recreate. After some wiggle testing, I finally found it at the FICM harness. I guess the harness was shorting out on one of the intake bolts. Replacing the 9D930 injector harness fixed it. Like Keith, I highly doubt an STC fitting failure would cause what you describe. Shows how little hotline knows. Hope this helps.

Funny you should say that Alex, because after I managed to get it started and up to operating temperature, I couldn't get it to NOT restart. In so doing, during several attempts to recreate the no-start, I did notice IPR duty cycle ramp up to 59% and ran like a bag of shit, like it was misfiring. When going WOT, this thing would puff out so much black smoke you could blind the whole city in miles. Anyhoo, I'm not interested in raping this guy for every part in the book. Now that you mention it though, the wire going to the IPR didn't look like it was in the greatest shape. A 12B637 harness prices out at only $238! At that price, I would at least like to add that to the list. I'm just waiting until the morning to see if this thing will not start.

I should mention that it won't run a KOER test because it flags a hard P1408. Fails test #1 of the air management test. I know it's not uncommon for repeat EGR valve failure. Now, it seems to start quite fine. I guess I'll try again in the morning after the engine has cooled down.

I got an '03 F-350 just came in on the hook no-start. Unit has 212,429 kms. on the clock. The codes I got are P0401, P0404, P2290, P2291, P2614, P2617 and P2623 in that exact order. Funny thing is, it looks like someone has already replaced the EGR valve just recently. The P2614 & P2617 I'm assuming are just due to the engine not firing. Now P2623 IPR open is something I've never seen on a 6.0L before. The ICP sensor looks pretty dry. While monitoring PIDs ICP only climbed up to 180. I managed to start it with brake clean, and let it run up to engine operating temperature. Just for shits and giggles I took it for a run up and down the street. Boy did this thing ever have the LOUDEST turbo fart or flutter that I've ever heard on a 6.0L, also consistent with plumes of black smoke puffing out the pipe. I'm used to air testing '05 and up models for ICP issues. This is the first '03/'04 I've had to deal with a low ICP no-start. Being retail, I like to spend the customer's money WISELY. Any ideas?

Hey good luck! If you managed to impress a few engineers, and he took the time to seek you out, GO FOR IT! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

On the topic of lifting cabs, I just had a brainfart. Would you guys lift the cab for engine repairs in this?: /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

No paper trail? What about a parts purchase receipt? If the defective new part is what caused the subsequent failure of other components, wouldn't Ford be picking up the tab?

Yes. I have done all my cab-offs like that so far without issue.

TSB# 08-09-09

Speaking of heavy truck shops, that reminds me of the days when I used to work at a Ford Truck store (pre-6.0L days), where there was this one heavy truck tech who had a real attitude apparently. Him and this one parts guy would be at each others' throats almost on a day-to-day basis. Well, one day this tech was working on something in a bent over position. Apparently this tech had "plumber's butt", meaning his butt cheeks were exposed when he was bent over. The parts guy grasped the opportunity and took a can of Brake Clean and nearly emptied the whole can into the tech's "orifice". Apparently the resulting sound emitted by the tech was unbearably priceless. This malicious act, earned the parts guy a reprimand, 2 week suspension, and a written apology to said co-worker. I would've paid money to have actually witnessed this.

I did that once on a 5.4L E-series truck. The only difference was, it WASN'T a joke!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gifFrom that moment on, I ALWAYS leave the crank trigger wheel right on top of the timing cover whenever I do any form of disassembly work..

ANYTIME there is a concern immediately after a repair, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS retrace your steps. It's something I've learned many times. I know it sucks royally, but it looks like he's going to have to start with pulling the valve covers and HP rails off. He may luck out and find one of the rocker arm bridges not seated properly on top of the valves or the plastic fulcrum(s) either broken, or not seating the rocker arm(s) properly. Failing that, I guess he's going to have to pull the heads off again. Good luck.

Yeah, well then WHO pays? US? FUCK THAT!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

Look closely at the right/rear corner below the valve cover. Looks like an ARP stud to me. Someone has deep pockets!!!