Aaron

Man the F-harness is gettin' to be pretty cheap... the killer is the labor to put the damn thing on.

I don't have any kids. However. My kids would not be riding in the front seat of my super duty with the airbag enabled, and there's no off switch. So in the back till you're big enough.

That's how it looks, from all the resources I havee been able to find on the internets. Thanks for the replies, fellows!

The sheet says "DIESEL SPECIALTY TECHNICIAN"....doesn't it?

Customer has swapped a 4.10 gear into the car. I have tried to reprogram for the speedo/odo correction, to no avail. Contacted hotline, this was the reply: Hotline response: Aaron, This vehicle was built with a 3.27 axle ratio and tire size of and it is federally illegal to change axle ratio for over the road use. The ids tool will not be able to modify the axle ratio. We recommend returning the vehicle back to OEM to conform to emissions laws. Any ideas fellows? I kinda doubt this guy is going to want to swap back in a 3.27 sprocket to make the speedo right. Anyone know how I can 'override' the IDS so it can force a program? Thanks in advance!

What happens if you tell your significant other that the pie and or cake will go straight to her hips? Reference above song. LOL

Notorious Cherry Bombs. Good stuff, right there.

Maybe I should just take up that kinda lifestyle, that guy's got it happenin. Big monies for the viper, I bet.

That shoulda been the friggin' ET, not the RT! Typically my lights are in the .000 to .010 range. (.500 to .510 depending on how your timing equipment is set up) Deep stage the car and roll the thing so far forward it's almost outta the beam, and shit-can the throttle when the last yellow comes on

I was told at training that the DEF was 3/4 full. Which leads me to believe if the owner uses the IOLM, the truck may display the "DEF LOW" message, or run out completely before the first LOF.

She priced out yesterday. $5900 for the complete filter assembly. Hope they got that shit figured out, cause that'll get expensive, and probably be on the prior approval list, almost immediately. I like how the air filter has come substantially down in price, they are around $60 or so. The glow plugs are around $90 each, and the injectors (listed as Injector Kit) are $912 a piece. This is obviously all retail pricing. Oil filter retails for around $60 also. And the fuel filters I posted about before...almost three hundred bucks... Thankfully the LOW FUEL PRESSURE warning will FORCE people to change their filters.

Oh, the only thing I think the GM's got going for it is the downpipe injector. LOL. I drove a 6.2 truck last week, I was VERY impressed. It was a cab and chassis, so it was a little different than a pickup, but on a SRW F-350 cab and chassis, shit-canning the throttle at 60mph had the truck ALL over the road, with the traction control on. I am very impressed with the power this thing has. This will be an AWESOME replacement engine for the 5.4 and the 6.8 in my opinion. I can only imagine that engine in an F-150, or even more fun, a Mustang The dual plug thing is interesting, I would be interested to see what style of plug it uses, if it's like a 5.4 3v type plug, or a regular, old school plug, or one of each. Similar to the LS-series GM gasoline V-8, the plug wires will likely be about $300 a set. We have our first 6.7 in, it's a Lariat 250 ,and the sticker is $79k. The stupid...absolutely STUPIDEST thing I think I've seen so far yet, is the routing of the DEF line...it runs down the OUTSIDE of the frame, down at the BOTTOM of the frame rail...that is NEVER gonna cause problems, or get torn off in the mud in the patch. ((dripping with sarcasm))

Agreed Jim. I'm kinda old school on that shit though, I do my oil change every 5000km, sometimes sooner, I keep an eye on mileage, hours, and watch the level (6.4). If any of those things are not to my liking, I dump the oil and filter. The concern I have with the 6.7 is the pricing of the fuel filters -- people are NOT gonna wanna change the filters every 20k at $300 a pair for 'em, plus whatever one particular shop charges to put 'em on. Like we talked about on the phone the last time we spoke, I think GM has got it figured out with the injector in the downpipe to do the regeneration stuff. I realize it adds a myriad of extra fuel lines that could have leak potential, but ultimately it would keep the oil from coming fuel diluted, which would definitely be a benefit.

Way it all comes down to it though is it's a federally mandated emissions device, and whether we like it or not we've gotta maintain the attitude of it's gotta be on there. I agree with you the EGR system is problematic, but it does also lower NOx emissions and help alleviate smog. Your statement about the dirt in the engine is correct also, and removal of this stuff DOES help with some dirt issues. I worked at a place where all of the emissions controls are deleted for the factor of reliability, due to CONSTANT idle time. Stuff would carbon up so bad it wouldn't even run. As Jim and some others have said on a hot rod or something that isn't driven every day emissions controls are not really of a huge concern. If a guy can write a tune for a truck, with emissions controls defeated/removed so the emissions are comparable to a truck with all the controls intact, then that's all good, but I'm not a hundred percent sure it's possible. As for the head studs, I think it's widely accepted that that's THE fix for the 6.0. Except, of course, for Ralph. I also think that with a little bit of a change in the principles of system operation on the 6.0's EGR system, a lot of the problems could be avoided. EGR should NOT be on at idle. EGR should also not be on when the EGT is below a certain range. Also, the ONLY coolers that should be used are the early style 03 coolers that are a lot less prone to failure than the later style ones. I'm not trying to start any pissing matches, I know some guys are pretty passionate about removing emissions controls, but a lot of times it's for all the wrong reasons. I have a lot less problems with a guy that is tampering with emissions devices from a reliability or maintenance standpoint, rather than adding a 350hp tune to make the thing huff out so much black smoke you can't see around it at an intersection.

I have been bestowed the honor of being known from this day forth as... CAPTAIN OBVIOUS. Hey. Yer shoe's untied....

I deep staged my car once, and looked over my shoulder to see what the fuck was going on in the other lane....next thing I knew the starter was knocking on the window. I looked up and she was FULL GREEN..... R/T: 6.809 LOL

Clean power...like the others said. Where is the PCM located on this heap? I haven't worked on a gasoline E-series in quite some time?

I saw that. I really wish however they would pick an hour to mileage conversion, and stick with it. It used to be 40, then 35, then 33, now it's 25. Makes you wonder, how many vehicles got flagged for having too many hours, but now would have been under on the new calculation. Also, does this change the want/need for service? I mean at 200 hours for LOF... let's do the math: 200 hours at 40/miles per hour = 8000mi 200 hours at 35/miles per hour = 7000mi 200 hours at 33/miles per hour = 6600mi 200 hours at 25/miles per hour = 5000mi We have a difference of 3000 miles just in LOF services, just by the spec changing. In my opinion, 5000mi is too long to run the oil in any Powerstroke, anyway. At Diavik, on a 6.0 truck a full PM service (which included a LOF and Fuel Filters as well as an air filter) was done at 300 hours. On a 6.4 truck this PM service was completed at 200 hours. Since they have gone to Spartan tuners to eliminate the regeneration, and theoretically elimintated the fuel dilution, I wonder if the PM on a 6.4 truck has been moved to 300 hours as well. This is confusing information, since there is nothing set in stone regarding the hours to miles conversion, and since it changes at the drop of a hat, it will be hard to base decisions on it regarding warranty coverage, or what the decision will be from higher up if a warranty decision is based on hours. I think the idle engine hour meter is a very valuable tool for us on the technician end of things, especially for instance in a frequent regeneration concern. Customer states vehicle regenerates very frequently. Ask customer do you idle the truck a lot, he says no, and the idle timer is at 500hrs and the Total hours is at 580 hours...we know it idles. My next question though, is the Engine Hours timer a TOTAL? Or is it the amount of hours that the engine has NOT spent at idle? Do you need to add them up, or is it Total less Idle hours to get the actual "moving" hours reading?

Greg, we like to call that, you got 'Treed'

Look at 'em, fuck it, it's gettin' a cover, it's gettin' stats. Changing those stats is a prick, I'm not chancing it when I'm in that far

Front cover pounded out of it.

I talked to him last week on a Freightliner I was wrenching on trying to find a capacity for the air conditioning.

Yup. Rarely claimed labor op or a fastner that is stripped/rounded or required replacement as per workshop manual.

Ours had ~50mi on it when I got in it to do the PDI. When I got in it when it arrived, it had less than 10mi on it.

There's some differences internally but from what I have seen the later ones will bolt up and work with no issues. I had one a while back that was an 05 and someone had put a MY 04 turbo on it, or something to that effect I don't remember the exact details, but the CHRA specified for the truck wouldn't fit, and a search of teh warranty history showed it had the wrong turbocharger on it, so a CHRA was orderd for the turbo that was ON the truck and all was well.