GregKneupper

Does anyone have a copy of tsb 07-23-14? It has been superseeded and I cannot access it anymore. Thanks.

If they built one I would buy it.

Check your tp mode pid and make sure that it reads c/t at idle. If it reads p/t then you may have a bad tp sensor. Try reseting kam after verifying the pid and see what happens.

I had an lcf that kicked my ass for that exact concern. The starter had an rfi issue and would knock out the crank signal but only after about a 30 minute hot soak.

I have never gotten one off. I have always ended up breaking the lever off of the turbo and have had to replace both of them. I would be interested in knowing how to remove them as well.

Just read on fmc dealer that transit sales were 70% higher than expected. I guess it is doing rather well.

I am pretty impressed with this engine so far. It looks and sounds real good. But they did tell us the same things about the 6.4. I am not getting my hopes all the way up this time. Time will tell if it can hold up.

Man I am glad that I live down south. I would not know where to begin to fix something like that.

I have only seen 1 7.3 blow a headgasket and it would blow coolant out the bottle on a cold engine big time. All you had to do was rev the engine and coolant would start to blow out from under the cap. It was the rh head on a e series bus. New head gaskets fixed it right up.

Check the map port on the intake manifold or the map hose for being clogged.

We have only seen a couple of repeat head gasket failures here as well and they were ones that we did not do the first time.

I actually like doing injectors in the e series. They pay alot better than the f series. Lucky for me though we do not work on any ambulances or any other kind of modified e series usually. 95% of them are regular panel vans with no add ons.

Well I finally just got around to trying the 6.0 icp sensor, and guess what, it did not work. It appears that the threads are different. It did screw into the head but when I tried to tighten it it popped back out. Yes the cylinder head is ok but my good icp sensor threads are now fucked up. Any ways I found an older 7.3 icp sensor and installed it for the guy. Let him know what was up and he took the truck. I have checked all the chafe points and did not see anything. I am praying this takes care of this truck. This guy has spent oodles of money on this thing over the past year at another dealer for all sorts of problems.

I think that this has been discussed before but I am not sure. Any ways here is the situation. I have a customer in here with a stalling complaint. I have only duplicated it once in 150 miles of test driving. When the concern happened the cel came on and the trans started shifting real hard. The codes that I retrieved were a p1211, p1212, and a p1280. The fuel pressure is good. During the concern the icp pressure was at 2100 psi at idle and the voltage was around 2.5 volts. The pcm would default the desired pressure to 750. I can unplug the sensor and it would go to 0 volts. Plug it back in and it would read normal icp for about 25 seconds then go right back to what it was doing. The ipr would stay at 14.1 percent during the concern. I have wiggle tested the pigtail and it would not change. Then the truck went back to running fine and I have not duplicated the concern since. I feel that the icp is bad but I cannot prove it. Any ways I do not just want to sell this guy an $250 part unless I know it is bad. My question is will and icp sensor from an 03 6.0 work on a 1997 7.3. They look the same but they have different part numbers. I would like to know if anyone has tried this. I have a sensor for an 03 6.o that I would like to put on his truck as a test part for him and see if the concern goes away. Appreciate any feed back.

I do hope that is the case. I would sure like to learn a little about it before I have to work on it.

I spoke to our fse about traing on the 6.7 and he informed me that we would not be any classes until after launch. I expressed some dissapointment in this as I thought that the 6.4 training really helped me out with the 6.4 when it came out. He also said that the 6.0 and 6.4 will become one class. I guess that we will be winging this one just like the 6.0.

Keith, thank you very much that did help quite a bit. The concern we are having is actually on a 6.4 but I assume that the 6.0 and the 6.4 have the same wave pattern. We have a 6.4 here that will not start and has an erratic crank signal. Do you know of a pattern on here while cranking? Sometimes we have one and sometimes we dont. It looks like a bent or damaged trigger wheel. The engine sounds funny while cranking and has a funny knock noise to it. We are tearing the oil pan off now to rule out the wheel. Feel free to move this to the 6.4 forum of course.

I thought that I saw a picture on here one time of what a good cmp and ckp waveform looked like on the ids. does anyone know of one? I need to see it. Thanks.

Why dont you just flag r&i valve cover and then replace the sensor?

Sorry Bruce, that was not my intention. I was directing that statement toward ford, not at you. I found it funny that they said it did not matter in texas because it is so hot. Truth is that it does matter. It is part of the truck and needs to be fixed and fixed correctly. That includes diagnosis.

We in texas are quite aware that you do not need glow plugs in july but I still get check engine lights all the time in the summer for faulty glow plugs. And yes I do charge for the glow plug diag and have never had a problem. It should not matter whether you need them or not. They are part of the engine controls and are monitored by the pcm and the gpcm. The only way to tell what the problem is is to perform glow plug diag. I guess next time just tell the customer that he does not need them in the summer and not worry about it until the winter time.

I know that a while back there was a bad batch of bad egr valves fresh out of the box. I wonder if you possibly got one. I think that there may still be a few of them out there. I had an econoline that I put 5 valves in before a guy at ford just sent me one off of his desk. I still occasionaly will get one that will not pass the test brand new. I would try another one and see what it does.

I though about that but I did not think that this was an issue on these older trucks. We do not have alot of issues like that around here and I was told that a delaminating tanks will show silver flakes in the filter. But I guess it is always a possibility. I replaced the fuel filter and now the fuel pressure is perfect. I do not know for sure if this is the only problem but the fuel pressure is much better looking. It will only go down to 35 wot and fluctate a few pounds which is in spec. It does not bounce around near as bad as it was and it now looks like I would expect it to.

vin is 3frml55z36v377339

Bruce, thanks for the pointer on the fuel hose. Worked like a champ. Now that I can get a better fuel pressure reading the fuel pressure is about 40 psi wot which is a little low. So I decided to pull the fuel filter and this thing has what looks like gray latex paint coating the filter. I have never seen anything like this before. It is very smooth and there are no large particles or chunks in it. It looks like someone just dipped it in a gallon of paint. Kind of smells like it to. I took another fuel sample and I do not see any traces of this stuff in the fuel. Anyone have any idea what this stuff could be? I am going to put another fuel filter in it and see if the fuel pressure comes up to normal.