joshbuys

'FACTORY'? My understanding is factory doesn't install these, they send the kit in a box in the back of the car and have tech's install them......and they are a major pain in the arse! Model to model they're not the same, and they are very tempermental!!!! Just did one on thursday on a 2010 Sport Trac.

I don't take the turbo off when removing engine in chassis, remove the cab bolts at driver and front passenger floor boards, remove the front nuts by the radiator, jack front of body up high enough to put 4x4 between body and frame, remove oil pan and pick up tube, remove engine. Bedplate reseal normally takes me around 12 hours. To me, there's no reason to pull cab on 6.0. Head gaskets are easy enough, once you remove evaporator case(15 minutes) you can get all head bolts with impact, then just use the cherry picker to pull them out. That's my method, and maybe it's just 'cause I'm still young....there's always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Maybe as I get older I'll change my method, but for now.... Just my

DUE TO UNANTICIPATED DEMAND....(this is Ford's way of saying sorry, WE screwed up)!!!!! Funny how everytime a TSB tells us to replace something, that 'something' goes on backorder!

There are some independent shops in the area, there's a couple heavy truck shops behind the ford dealer and another at the other end of town. Rentals are pretty tough to find, but they're not bad as far as cost goes. It seems like alot of the apartments serve as student housing for the college here, and there aren't really that many apartments.

I'm in riverton, work at the ford dealer, we've got a full shop right now, don't forsee room in the near future. Fremont Motors owns a ford dealer in lander also, don't know what their outlook is, but i've heard they don't pay worth a crap.

Ahhh....That makes a little more sense now!

As well as fuel and air filters?

Not sure if it would be possible to do the pump that way, but the gasket isn't bad.

I work with my brother-in-law, and he used to work as an ornamental welder for his dad, so he generally does all my welding, unless he's busy, then I have my apprentice do it since he knows how to weld.

Here's the superceded number. Not sure why they changed the base?!?! 4C2Z-9F759-AA

Hope this helps. Looks like a 4C2Z-12B637-AAA was the original part

All done, did it all from the back and top after pulling transmission. Didn't have to pull turbos, took 7 hours today and a 20 mile test drive.....GOODBYE!!!! Yes we have a torch too, but i'm no welder, nor do I profess to be able to weld, I could cut it off no problem, but I'd have to convince someone else to weld it back on for me.

I don't mind them so much, Myself and one other guy at my old dealership did pretty much all the work on them. None of the other tech's wanted anything to do with them, but would take them if there wasn't anything else to do.

Don't see to many E-vans in these parts, sorry.

Alright, I mentioned that I had a second one to do now at the end of the other post, what I hadn't noticed 'til this morning was this truck has a spare tire rack - welded to the flatbed - that overhangs the cab. So this ones gonna be a cab ON deal. I was wondering what you guys thought of not pulling the turbos, but attempting to do it from the back after pulling the transmission? I can't decide if it's worth trying, cause I don't care to screw myself!

Well...gasket in, 20 mile test drive good to go....guys looking at trading it off already. Go to my box to see what got drug in over the weekend, next in que - 2008 F550, died while driving, cranks but won't start.....hmmmm sounds familiar - pull codes, do tests and wouldn't you know it.....here we go again!

if you put heat to the bolts and a little pressure on the cab(start lifting) you can usually get them out with a ..... half inch impact ssshhhhhhh don't tell anyone. don't use the impact on the front two....i don't know why, but i haven't had any luck with those, start them by hand and then use the 3/8 cordless to finish 'em off. if they do spin, bend a 22mm wrench at a 45 degree angle and you can easily hold the top after removing the headlamps. Heat the loctite on the new ones and run 'em all in with the impact. occasionally one spins coming out, but they're all easy to get to..

If I recall correctly, that TSB is regarding the delamination of the gauge and interferring with the needle causing it to stick....not necessarily be erratic.

Quote: This is an actual PERMANENT repair

We have a known good test FICM here also....it's brand new, so if it fixes the problem, it get's left in the truck and gets replaced by the new one from parts....only have to program it once that way!

At least all the 7.3's are out of warranty now, so when these IDIOTS break them they can't blame anyone but themselves. It always seems to amaze me how some customers come in cussing Ford for building a bad product when they admittedly haven't followed proper maintenance schedules, or have modified the truck causing the problems they're having.....but it's Quote: FORD'S FAULT!

typo....it says just replace the pump cover gasket. guess i got ahead of myself in my typing there.

08 F450, Died while idling, cranks but won't restart. FRP builds to 215 psi, Fuse 74 blown. Pump wiring shorted - chaffed. Pin 2 to ground - 1.7 ohms, pin 4 to ground - 4.2 ohms. TSB 07-26-02 says if one of the wires is shorted then just replace the pump. I'm good with that, but what if both are shorted? TSB states that the pumps are not being damaged. Hotline says regardless of chaffing, pump IS NOT DAMAGED. One of the guys I work with had one a while back that was chaffed on both wires, hotline said put just the gasket in. Truck died on test drive and guess what.....Cab comes back off for HPP....work twice....pay once..... What would you do???? I've got it apart now, and both solenoids measure proper specs - 2.7 ohms on one and 2.6 ohms on the other. According to PPT ME this is in spec - (1.5-8 ohms). I'm just worried I'm gonna have to pull it apart again to do the pump, but only get paid for it once!

i don't get sick.....or maybe it's just i still work when i'm sick.....can't afford not to!

P167F Non-OEM Calibration Detected TCM REFER to Section 307-01 (diesel engine only). It's in a 2008 F-250, but not a 2009 or 2010 F-250. Interesting!