joshbuys

Just posted this on the message boards under the 'new diesel engine' forum. has anyone heard if they are going to put out a 'coffee table book' for the 6.7? I love my 'coffee table books' for the 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4, use them all the time! I heard that since it's not being produced by navistar (navistar also produced the books) that we won't see one for the 6.7. I think this would be a shame since so many of us find them very valuable in learning about the engines and for a reference guide.

Comment from: Hotline Comment Date: 9/3/2009 4:12:58 PM Josh, Thanks for the updated information. Continue with oil pan removal as this will allow inspection of lower end components. If damage noted, record the engine hours from the Cluster and multiply this number by 33. This number will provide an accurate mileage for the vehicle. Also, obtain copies of the vehicle maintenance records to verify all services are up to date. Cab and cylinder head removal is then recommended to allow complete root cause/extent of damage inspections. Complete a cost cap analysis once inspections completed. Submit engine approval forms should cost to repair exceed the $10,000 cap. Comment from: technician Comment Date: 9/3/2009 4:47:25 PM WHEN DID WE SWITCH BACK TO 33 MILES/HOUR? THIS IS WHAT IT READS IN THE MARCH 30 2009 REVISION TO WARRANTY POLICY MANUAL HOW TO CALCULATE EXTENDED IDLE CONDITIONS Engine Hours vs. Vehicle Mileage Formula (Helpful to determine if "Extended Idle" condition exists) Record the engine hours from the vehicle and multiply the number by 25 (1 hour of engine running time is equal to approximately 25 miles). THE ENGINE HOURS ARE 970 WHICH EQUATES TO (25*970) 24250 OR (33*970) 32010 DEPENDING ON WHICH FORMULA YOU GO WITH, BUT EITHER WAY ITS LESS THAN THE 37524 THAT THE ODOMETER READS. Comment from: Hotline Comment Date: 9/3/2009 4:53:01 PM Joshua, The hours to mileage conversion is different from severe duty to regular duty. If the vehicle is considered severe duty, then the hours would get multiplied by 25. This is how the ever 200 hours or 5,000 miles in the maintenance manual is formulated. If the vehicle is not severe duty, then the 33 comes into play. WHY ARE WE USING 2 SEPERATE ENGINE HOUR TO MILE CONVERSIONS? MAKE UP YOUR MIND FORD!!!! GOT A DEAD HOLE - CYL 2 (0 PSI COMPRESSION) ON THIS TRUCK, WHAT IS PULLING THE OIL PAN GONNA DO FOR ME?!?! THE TIP OF THE GLOW PLUG IS MELTED, THERE IS 'WELDING' SPATTER ON THE GLOW PLUG, THERE IS METAL DEBRIS ALL OVER THE OIL DRAIN PLUG, OIL IN THE CAC - ALL COMMON SIGNS OF A BURNT PISTON. NO VALVE TRAIN DAMAGE, AND NOW I NEED TO PULL THE PAN TO 'FIND THE ROOT CAUSE'?!?! ROOT CAUSE IS CRAPPY DESIGN!

It does exist on pre 08 trucks, put a complete in an 06 last week, and reset the hours to 0. Truck really only needed headgaskets(120000) but the customer wanted a complete engine....I was happy to oblige!

http://www.greencarreports.com/blog/1034...-turbodiesel-v8 here's another article I ran across today with some decent pictures

Heard yesterday that Halliburton is supposed to be getting 2 prototypes in our area this October. I'm hoping to get a good look at one of them!

Just voted....up to 71, i've got 3 computers, and i'll try to vote from each one every day for ya. I looked through several pages of the dogs, and there were a few with over 200 votes...all ya all need to start voting!!!!

I've seen several without leaky injectors that have melted pistons. Hotline has you drain the oil and let it sit 'til it's stops dripping, then run the fuel pump for a couple hours and it's supposed to show any HP fuel system leaks. It'll leak out the drain hole if you have any leaks. I've seen some that do leak and some that don't. Melted pistons either way. I'm not sure what to make of it, but if you've got excess fuel in the oil and it goes through the cylinders, I'd imagine it would be similar to just over fueling with an injector.

Still getting engines off the line, takes at least a week to get one! The high oil level causes the crankshaft to aerate the oil and then suck the oil through the PCV system into the air filter housing, the oil goes through the engine, overheats the cylinders and melts the pistons - these are high idle time engines, the one I have in my stall now has around 86,000 miles, but has 4111 hours on it which equates to 103,000 miles. These oil field companies are changing the oil based on miles not on hours. It's normal for the oil level to increase 2-3 quarts between oil changes due to the regeneration characteristics of these engines. They're growing 2,3, and 4 times that between changes because of the high idle times.

Yeah, it ran, totally missed, but drove into shop, I've done 3 6.4 engines (2 completes and 1 short block) in the last 6 weeks, actually, the third one (melted piston 8, not as much oil as the other that I posted but it filled the 5 gallon drain pan to the brim.) is waiting for the complete to show up, should be here tommorow, the old engine is sitting on the floor next to the truck right now.

I have had 3-5 quarts out the CAC and filled a 5 gallon drain pan almost to the brim and a second 5 gallon drain pan about 1/4 full. So that's about 26 - 30 quarts (24.6 - 28.4 for all you metric types up there in Canada). The drain plug was covered with 'fuzzies' and cylinder 2 was melted pretty bad on that one.

I was not aware that these hour meters could be reset. Is this something you are doing when you put in a new engine? I've just been noting the hours on the repair orders. Where do I access this reset so I can turn it to 0 on a complete or shortblock installation.

Is this possible to do without pulling the transmission? I couldn't get the downpipe out of my way to get the 'y' pipe out without pulling the trans. WS says pull trans, pays 6.2 and the trans r&i should only take 2 - 2.5 so you've got another 3.5 - 4.0 to swap the pipe at that point.

+1! Don't touch the manifold bolts, more work for same pay....the bracket has 'grooves' for the clamps and the pins are just for ease of installation at the factory.

I also have been asked hours several times on vehicles for prior approval, but I've never once been denied a claim based on hours even when the hours exceed '100,000' miles. I currently have a 6.4 in my bay with 4111 hours or '102,775' miles on it, the odometer reads somewhere around 86,600 and Ford prior approval just approved me for a complete engine assembly on thursday. And they knew the hours on the truck.

you should be able to access them yourself on the main fmcdealer page.

http://cms2.fmcdealer.dealerconnection.com/Ford_LM/Sales/Communications/Division+Communications/March+2009/EFC0201020DC.htm?BRAND=FORD&ROLE=SVCTEC&REGIONS=FORD%2D56%2EFCSD%2DA1%2EFMCC%2DLA&PACODE=09049>As of March 2009 - Revision to waranty policy manual. To my knowledge Ford has not yet based warranty on hours - just mileage, but I say be prepared cause it won't be long before they do. One of the things that gets me with a lot of the trucks we see here is that they are owned by oil companies. These companies run all the maintenance on their rig equipment by operating hours, but they can't seem to understand that these trucks are the same way....if they idle more than they drive you need to maintain accordingly! IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!!!!

Ah....I found it....It's in section 303-04D under General Procedures/Turbo Charger Reconditioning. Thank You Everybody For All Your Help!!!!

I looked in the workshop manual earlier beings the latest tsb sends you to the manual, but I didn't see the updated tube in the turbo removal/installation section....which section did you find the tube in?

And 08-16-13 has been superceded by 09-12-2 as of June 5, 2009. Gotta love Ford and all their supercessions!!!! Thank you for your help!

Excellent question Mekanik, please do post your findings on that one. I had thought about that once when I was installing a new style seal, but I haven't had the pleasure of needing to remove one yet so I didn't care to take the time to look at it too closely.

Does anybody know off hand the ssm/tsb# for the updated turbo oil drain tube, it's been a while since i've had to state it and can seem to find the info.

the new black bracket they are sending works well, it's about 2 times thicker than the flimsy white one. Not sure if it's a harder plastic also? Haven't had any trouble using the new black plastic brackets.

I got a couple sitting here, maybe when I find some spare time I'll cut one up.

Here is a picture of a broken 6.0 crankshaft that my brother-in-law sent me last year, i believe he said it was the #4 main, not sure what year. Said he drove it into the shop, had to put a transmission in it also.

I can't dispute that since I'm not completely sure and can't find any documentation supporting one way or the other. I can say that we do Wynn's Diesel Injection flushes on occasion and have to unplug the fuel pump at the pump or pump harness because we found that when the inertia switch is tripped or fuel pump fuse removed the truck will just crank over and not start. but once we left the inertia switch and fuse alone and unplugged the pump it starts and runs fine on the injection flush machine. An open fuel pump won't cause this issue since it parallels the FPM circuit but opening the circuit previous to this seems to have that affect in my experiences.