joshbuys

What is wrong with you?!?! Americanized Chinese food is the best!!!!

Sounds like a classic egr cooler 'cept for the lack of wet intake. Pull a vacuum on the cooling system - if it leaks off, you've got a cooler blown. Make sure you do the oil cooler at the same time.

Hadn't even heard about it! I WANT IN!!!!

Warranty pays 1.2 for alternator - reasonable to go up from there!

do you remove the heads for this repair or do it in chassis? we had a plate at my old dealer that one of the guys mocked up to remove the back ones that are under the cowl. drop a dime or penny in the bottom before running the tap in, then pull the fronts with a slide hammer and the rears with the plate. saves SOOOOOO much time. Next time I have the 'pleasure' of doing this repair, i'm gonna make the tool we had at my old dealer.

Not sure what you're doing over there, but there's nothing 'gentle' about my air hammer procedure! Most get broke and won't come all the way out so I claim .8 tenths or so m-time to replace the housing.

WE CHARGE 2.0 FOR ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT AND 2.0 FOR BELT REPLACEMENT.

Why not include the 6.4 in this? I haven't seen any issues yet, but I'm sure I WILL! Same connectors!

Ran accross this and just had to throw it in here!

Refer to TSB 03-21-39. The different injector in cylinder 8 is for a 'cackle' concern. NOT a misfire!

I don't use google.....so I'm in the clear! October 23.....that's all I'll say

DIAG - (WE CHARGE 1.3), FICM REPLACEMENT - 1.0, REPROGRAM - 1.0.

Inspect the plastic tube that goes to the heater core return - runs along the rh valve cover back to just in front of the glow plug module - those crack - usually not really obvious - check previous work history to see if anyone's had that area apart as that's generally when they get cracked.

In all the reading I've done on it, I did read somewhere that this was a new option Ford has developed for the 2011 model year, Don't remember where I saw that....

Well said Jim! On that note, we had this guy tow his 2004 F350 in (800 dollar tow bill) 78k on it, he heard a 'pop' and then a 'grinding' from the rear end. He had his in bed camper on the truck when this happened, and the tow company could only pull it off the hill he was on by hooking up to the front and let the rear wheels roll. They towed it at 25 mph for 50 miles to the customers house where he could unload his camper, then to their yard to put it on a flat bed and then to us. Tear down found that one of the carrier bearing cap bolts had sheared off and gone through the gears, damage to housing and all internals. Gave the guy a price on a new unit - around 11k, and went through the trouble of locating a used unit that needed bearings - around 5k. Guy proceeds to try and blame everyone else for the problem (he's owned the truck since new and has never serviced the differentials). Price was given 3 days after truck showed up - it's been in our yard for 3 weeks now. Customer contacted tow company trying to tell them it was their fault for towing it with the back wheels on the ground.....SERIOUSLY?!?! Why was it being towed in the first place?!?! Customer filed a CUDL - lies strewn all over his contact, after my SM talked to Ford, they told the guy no dice! We decided the used unit was no longer an option for us to install for this particular customer. Customer finally towed his truck out on thursday to another independent shop where they are going to install a used unit..... Best part - He thinks he's gonna save money, but the guy working on his truck now.....happens to be my SM's brother, and is basically gonna charge the guy a little more than we were for the used unit install....all I can say is GOOD RIDDENS and SUCKER!!!!

+1, seen a few with the chaffed wire on column.

Pretty impressive!

We charge 10 hours for coolers (including diag) can be done in about 4-5. Steam clean the intake while you have it out, remove IAT2 sensor and clean while you're there, Install the updated turbo oil drain tube - good parts guy should know the one. EGR cooler comes with intake gaskets and new turbo bolts/seals. *DON'T* forget to install the big black o-ring between the intake and front cover....did this on my first one back in the day and it sucked having to take the intake up again! Carefully inspect screen under oil cooler - replace if torn. CLEAN EVERYTHING AROUND THE OIL COOLER BEFORE REMOVING - Under the oil cooler is the high pressure oil pump reservoir and any debris that gets in there *WILL* destroy the IPR - not if - but WHEN it gets past the screen! Motorcraft PM-2 Carb cleaner is excellent for cleaning intake and turbo. Recommend seperating and cleaning turbo while it's off - EGR Cooler failure generally leads to turbo rusting/seizing. We charge an extra hour for this.

+1 I have seen this (with the drain tube disconnected) more than once! Pouring from bellhousing as you described it.

Logic Dwayne....you can't use it with Ford!!!! Haven't you figured that out yet....It cost 'less' to fix it twice!

^^^^IIRC this is the EGRT SENSOR A

That makes sense....thanks for clarification

Would love to take that for a spin!

Off subject, but I have to know....How many did you get to? I had one last year about the same time, Hotline told me same thing, I went through 27 valves on one truck. After about the 12th one, I stole a valve from a stock unit to give the customer his truck back, and then proceeded to go through every valve we could get over the next few days until I found one that 1. still didn't pass the egr test. 2. didn't cause any driveability issues. and 3. didn't set any codes! Hotline said that was ok.

I access the front nuts by the radiator(since i'm allready pulling everything out of the front this doesn't take any extra time). And then the bolts at the driver/passenger floorboards. The front of the cab easily lifts with a floor jack and a 4x4 at that point. I've never felt any resistance from the cab at the center bolts and since it's all by hand, I never thought it might be putting any extra 'stress' on those rear bolts/body. I'll check a little closer next time I do one (it's been a while....seems like almost everything I'm working on lately is a 6.4L). The front bolts are easy to get to, I just don't care to tear all the rear seats out to access the back 4 bolts as most the trucks I see are either caked in mud (inside and out) or full of other crap in the rear.