joshbuys

WHAT KIND OF TIMES ARE YOU CHARGING FOR THIS?

SPEED FROM THE HOUSE - LAPTOP ON THE WIRELESS NETWORK.

HOLY CRAP!!!! I HOPE YOU TOLD HIM YES!

I LOOKED THROUGH THE DOCUMENTS YOU HAVE LINKED ON HERE, AND THINK I CAN GET IT WIRED IN - CAN I USE AN UPFITTER SWITCH TO ACHEIVE THE IDLE UP RATHER THAN THE PARK BRAKE - IT NEEDS TO MAINTAIN THE HIGHER IDLE WHILE MOVING SLOWLY THROUGH THE FIELDS.

2006, SINGLE ALTERNATOR, IT IS A BELT DRIVEN PTO.

I HAVE A TRUCK HERE THAT HAS A HAY BAIL LIFT/ROLLER ON THE BACK OF IT - IT HAS A BELT DRIVEN PTO, BUT NO ELEVATED IDLE CONTROL - KEEPS GOING THROUGH ALTERNATORS - PARTLY BECAUSE SOMEONE HAS PUT A 110A ALTERNATOR ON IT, BUT I SUSPECT ALSO DUE TO THE FACT IT'S GOT ALL THE EXTRA LOAD ON IT AND STILL ONLY RUNNING AROUND 700 RPM. I'VE NEVER MESSED WITH ELEVATED IDLE CONTROLS, AND WAS WONDERING WHAT COULD BE DONE FOR THIS TRUCK, IT IS OFTEN USED TO ROLL OUT THE ROUND HAY BAILS, SO NEEDS TO WORK BOTH STATIONARY AND AT SLOW SPEEDS - 5 - 15 MPH. ANY HELP/SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

THIS IS FROM WORK....I'LL HAVE TO CHECK HOME - SHOULD BE FASTER!

I have done one through the back after removing the transmission - can torque the lines from the top laying over the engine, and from the backside. Little bit of a pain, but it can be done. And how bout that picture!?

What was the price tag on that set? My old shop had a set of the lifts that are 'portable' like those, but they went on each of the 4 tires and had a lifting capacity of 60,000. Been trying to convince them here that we need a set, but we really don't have room for them....

YOU CANNOT GET RH VALVE COVER OFF WITHOUT REMOVING UPPER HALF OF LH MOTOR SUPPORT - HAVE FUN IT'S REALLY NOT THAT BAD - JUST SOMEWHAT PAINFUL ON THE FOREARMS - BUT YOU GET USED TO THE PAIN AFTER AWHILE

I was wondering why the back side of that compressor wheel looked smooth and not a second wheel like the press release says.

I dropped an 8mm wobly - made it to the pan - bought a set of locking extensions the next day - hasn't happened again!

Good call Bruce!!!! Flip the tail pipe back over....that should fix it!!!!

Ahhhhh.....now I get it!!!!

Very nice Bruce, I'm gonna have to try that one!

It was on fmcdealer a week or 2 ago in the messages, I saved the pdf. Is there somewhere I can upload the pdf file to here for easy access in the future? I tried uploading one before in the photopost, but it said it couldn't because it was the wrong format.

If you add water to the powder wouldn't it get to be a bit muddy?

GOODLUCK!

Model Year Application Kit Description Ford Service # 1994-2003 7.3L DIT Standard Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-A 1994-2003 7.3L DIT .010 Oversized Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-B 1994-2003 7.3L DIT .020 Oversized Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-C 1994-2003 7.3L DIT .030 Oversized Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-D 1988-94 7.3L IDI (Excluding turbo) Standard Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-EB 1988-94 7.3L IDI (Excluding turbo) .030 Oversized Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-FB 1983-87 6.9L IDI Standard Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-GB 1983-87 6.9L IDI .030 Oversized Piston & Rings 2C3Z-6R007-HB

SOMETIMES?!?!

Yes...You will NEVER get that bolt out/in with the head sitting in place - I use a piece of rubber hose to hold the bolt up from interferring when I'm installing the head (I do heads in cab). But I don't think I would try doing ARP studs in cab.

Sooo.....how bout them powdered metal rod thingys?

Don't touch it unless replacing head gaskets - then lift cab!

pull the upper fan shroud, pull the vertical cooler, pull horizontal cooler out front - no need for pulling radiator, pull the degas bottle out to - only takes a couple minutes and SOOO much room!!!!