Mbl35

Yea well it's leaking coolant and making the coolant level low thus causing the engine to get less cooled. That is why we changed it. Also i found out that it now lists for under a grand.

On an e it's easier to do 9-26-1 with the engine out,i tried doing it with the engine in with a snap on video boroscope and it's still a bitch to see whats going on in the injector cups. To me the soapy suds tend to make optical ilusions due to the fact that it's encaved the ligt in the boroscope acts more like a flashlite and the soap reflects the ligt in funky ways. I had to pull the engine out anyway so i got creative and sealed up the cooling system then pressurized the motor. With the motor out in the open it's alot easier to see whats going on in the cups. This motor had blown gaskets but i did the tsb just to be sure. You will be better off just pulling the motor, i thought about lifting the body but it just seems like a shitload of more work to do on a lance. Just mark all of the wires in the grill before you snip them-siren, flashing lights etc and you will be fine.

Yea i got to get a softer seat for my mountain bike cuz riding it six miles each way to works leaving my ass in pain

Ok, i will relay this to the director of service. Thanks.

We've been having some issues with our chevrolets lately. Anyway, does anyone know of an aftermarket fuel heater for an 07 chevy express van with a 6.6 duromax. They are pretty pricey, we replaced one on another unit some time back, it was leaking coolant and it was like 1500 for that little thing. If anyone knows of a company out there that makes them for a better price i would apreciate it. Thank you.

Yea thats like having stiff steering on a town car when it rains or just after a bad rainstorm, when the vaps module drys up all is well. Replace windsheld and stiff steering concern gone. Or 4x4 lt. on expedition flickering-same scenario.

^Had a few of them as well.

I'm driving a GT mountain bike 6miles to and from work ever since my Jeep cheerokee got smashed up. I'm keeping my eyes open for a 99-03 f250 4x4 with a 7.3. Oh yea.

yea i'm doing that.

Anyone know of any chevy dealer thats authorized to do warranty diesel repairs in the tristate area, or any reputable authorized shops? Preferably in north eastern nj or long island. Thanks.

Having a good boroscope helps when checking for coolant leaks on the 4.6l in the rovers. I had on that was tricky, it had a small but steady stream of coolant trickling down the bellhousing. I found it leaking from the back seal of the pipe that goes front to rear. I never touched or saw the new style v6 but i heard gm makes it.

Even when i remove an oil cooler with no concerns to change out the gasket for a leak, i find part of the screen busted-this is on 08's with 30k on the clock. But yea i just pump up the excurvator and let it suck till ther's just air.

We put 8 injectors in and started rite up and ran smooth. I test drove it the other nite, got 2 bocks and the turbo took a shit. I cracked it open and all the vanes were stuck on the pins and the unison ring was worn. Cleaned it up, changed the ring, updated vgt and oil flow tube. Drove it 45 miles and like new.

Me to. No-an ambulance company.

we got a fluid excurvator here, i just send the tube down the oil tunnel to the pump and let the vacuum suck it all out.

Overhere thats part of the shop rules. The oil and filter must be changed before starup.

Got one int the shop now, was not mixing coolant but the egr cooler was blown out and threw alot of coolant. Last sat. the tech who put the coolers in started it and ran fine in the shop-i stopped by and saw it running well at idle(it barely made it from the paking area to the bay-i drove it in). I come in monday morning and went to start it and will not start. You can't here the prcycle at all and the buzz test passes but you can't here the injectors maybe just one faint click, plug a new injector in to each plug and like a jack hammer. I had one a while back that came in running and needed coolers, after cooler replacement it would'nt start. I replaced all injectors and it fired right up.

Top fuel i feel your pain with your mechanic shortage/workflow-same here

Caps been changed. The heads are off, cyls 3, 5 and 7 are blown out pretty bad. The compression rings are gone on the bottom next to the water jackets.

Good stuff, sounds like melodic metal.

I thought it was the 05's that acted up at the quick connect fitting at the pump?

The Little Rascals Rule. I'm 36 but lucky enough to have watched them on wpix channel 11 as a kid .

The thing that sucks about the euro stuff is you got to have all sorts of bit sockets. Like head bolts on a vw 2.0, it looks like a tripple square bit but it's different and i think i saw some 5 point hex looking fasteners under the hood of an audi once. All those tools are expensive and special order. Thats why i prefer to wrench on the domestic stuff, they keep it simple with tooling for the most part.

Mike, it don't set fan codes or any codes. It has a yellow sudsy substance oozing from the cap and it never overheats. I was thinking of letting it go for a few days with the coolant level at 1/4 full in the bottle and see what occurs. Not sure what to make of the sudsy coolant, trace oil mixing? I just got one before, 05 e350 box, it had a wrench lite on tuesday but not on weds and no evident drivability symptoms. P012f eot/ect correlation and p0404-passes egr test. The bottle's not puking but it is expanding. I drove it good and 20 degee dif between the eot and ect, problobly going to need an oil cooler and egr cooler rite? The temp needle stays in the middle. Pcm is at the latest. Oh boy, the other tech whom shares the drivability and diag work with me is out sick and will be for quite a while and i'm overwhelmed with sick sixes and other stuff.

No, this one is fine. Has no dtc's and we get plenty like that to .