Mbl35

While removing the oil filter adapter tubes from the adapter on top of the oil cooler i just found a washer with a small hole in it, looks like some kind of restricter. It was in the left tube driver side. I have never seen this before. Is this some kind of remidy for somthing?? It fits in the tube almost perfectly with one part of it a little distorted. I'm not surprised at anything i find on these units here, also i should mention there was blue bearing grease on the cam sensor and yesterday when i changed the oil there was some metal on the drain plug. It was in last month for a blown out egr cooler, had all injectors replaced but has original oil cooler. Also i found one port on cyl.6 intake gasket melted.

I usually take a stretcher sheet and fold it up a few times and place it on the cowl lip when i'm wrenching back there.

no but Purple Sage is good stuff though.

All Thrash Metal all the time with the exeption of Iron Maiden, Manowar and OZZY. My shops got good acoustics and i play it loud!

I just had to go over a rebuilt engine a dealer recently put in for us, it was smoking out the tailpipe like crazy.Fuel pressure was up to 60 psi and the needle was fluctuating. Had 2 cyls missing intermitantly, took off both valve covers and i found cyls 2,4,6,8 and 3 all loose, so loose i turned the torx socket by hand to get the injectors out. Cyl 6 injector compression washer disintegrated and burned up the cup. When i put in a rebuilt i check to make sure the injectors were installed properly. and we had a few other engine installs done at the dealer where it came in shotly after with a mis on more than 1 cyl due to loose injectors. I wouldnt be surprised if the high pressure pumps are loose or over tight on these rebuilds. I have seen that cause premature pump failures on recently installed pumps from other tecss, but i got my suspiscions with these rebuilds.

We got one bus here with all kinds of crap blocking the dog house and all kinds of auxilary crap all over. After i work on that thing my girlfriend got to give me a 2 hour massage because i'm all cramped up. Also the emergency units are no picnic, you got to squeeze yourself in betwwen the computer pedistal and the back of the motor when working back there and we constantly get them in for leaky cooler gaskets.

You should go to a fleet shop, youl be working on diesels all day every day. If it's a decent shop there would be factory scantools and access to factory repair info plus training. Also you wont care about what tickets are on the dispatch desk. You get your hourly pay for the time you work and usually there is some overtime. I recall you posting something about a fleetshop that was hireing with a bunch of 6.4's, thats sure to keep you busy.

One of our Duramaxes had this last september, when i took it for a blast on the highway it had alot of power but you could hear a very slight hissing sound on accelerations and felt like the trans was slipping on heavy accelerations a bit. When i got back to the shop i took apart the air ducts cac tubes etc. to have a look and found on the cac tube going to the throttlebody-on the bottom just a smal portion of the cac hose folded under the clamp and it goes over a sleeve. I resecured all of the hoses. Make sure those cac tubes are very dry where they clamp-intercooler etc. because any little bit of trace oil will make them blow right off from what i've seen. It's been good ever since. And i think there is some kind of recalibration or something for a glowplug issue, the service manager at the chevy dealer we deal with won't give me specifics on it. We sent one over there for a glow plug dtc issue(warrenty) and all the invoice stated was emmisions recall and that was it.

I would check the fuel pressure. Could you borrow the tester from sombody you know? I would test fp cold then let it warm up and take it on a nice whirl and moniter fuel pressure. I work on lots of e-banger ambulances and had to replace a few fuel pumps lately. If the fuel pump is bad it's a good idea to put in the updated fuel pressure regulaltor. Also before we had the fuel pressure tester i was on a test drive in an 06 bus that ran fine cold but after like a mile or so started running like crap and just shut off in the middle of the road and after ten minutes or so started up again and i was able to make it back to the shop, the fuel pump was failing when it got hot but the engine ran nice and smooth on cold start ups.

Jim the samething happened to me 12 years ago. I walked into the old wantaugh ford in long island to pick up a belt tensioner for a ford tempo. The service manager saw me standing there at the shop entrance just being nosey and asked me if i wanted a job, when i told him no thanks he kind of nagged me a bit. Problobly was a mistake, they were swamped with work and it was a pretty large shop.

Yeah im waiting for a vcm to toughbook cable and thats all thats left in the process before the vcm or the laptop. I don't think it's the laptop though.

You aint kidden

We got about 5mos. to go before the vcm subscription expires. But for a few months now the vcm loses comunication. Sometimes it happens constantly and sometimes not every day. I notice it occurs more on gassers. I blanked out a pcm while reprogramming a v-10 after throttlebody replacement and had to go to the otherside of town to our bus shop to borrow there ids to get it going. Shortly after that i had to install a ficm and i warned my boss, he said to put it in and see what occurs, it installed successfully and did a another after that. It seems it mostly screws up on the gassers and especially escapes because i can hardly use it on escapes. Only on testdrives on the diesels it would lose comunication but you hit tic and get it back again. I put a new dlc cable on it and a new usb jumper and deleted the jumper to see if it made a difference and no difference. Innitially i thought it was the usb jumper that was causing the problem. I did not swap the inner cable from the vcm that plugs into the usb. So im not sure what it could be. Anyone else having concerns like this. Also updating the database did'nt help either.

+1

Any of you guys strugle with glowplug harnesses? Later models are never a problem. The 05 and below suck. I was changing out the harness on bank 2 and could not get cyls. 4 and 6 to come out for the life of me. Good thing i was doing some injectors on the same bank. I was able to get them out by sneaking a wrench on the glowplugs and just moving it a little got the harness plug to twist, then i got the the glowplug harness remover tool and yankked it up and out from the inside. It really sucked! The last 2 times this happened to me on 04's, they would not come out and broke clean flat, i sharpened an 8 inch skinny flatblade craftsman screwdriver and heated it red hot and tapped them out but that way takes more time. Anybody have a way of pulling out these glowplug harnesses out sucessfully?

How many miles are on it?

Recently had an 02 where the brown crap was sitting above the two filters. If we don't have any sending units in stock, i don't let it tie up my stall i just clean the screens and it's fine.

Oh, i was able to get one in there. That was from the "Head Studs in an e-series post". I'm worse at computers than i am at fixing shit.

I put up some photos in the photo section. Some of these i wanted to put in previous posts but could not due to computer and software. I don't know how to put them in a post.

I'm right behind you. When i finish the engine job i'm doing now, there's an 05 escape 3liter with blown head gaskets and a clogged heater core waiting for me. I shall be dropping the complete powertrain to do it. Because the last one i did'nt and it did a real # on my back.

Thanks. My boss could'nt get the stuff today and told me just to put the heads on, seal the pan and reinstall. The injector cups were leaking and there was some diesel in the coolant actually, when i first checked it there was no trace of diesel in the bottle. I just wanted to be sure that there's no other problemsthat i don't se because i would hate to be pulling this engine out again. I'll just document everything on the RO.

Nevermind. My boss just called me and said that rings are not available so im just going to slap heads on it. Going to reseal the pan for a leak and change the oil pickup tube gasket while im in there. Still want to check for cavitation. Ohwell i'll just leave it up to my boss to get me the stuff. If not i'll put it together and see what happens.-And we still never got our compression guage yet.

The engine is out and the heads are off. I have 2 brand new cylinder heads in the parts room. But before i put them on im going to change the piston rings-also check for any slightly bent rods(problobly none-all the pisons apear to be at the same height at the top of there stroke). Before i change the rings i want to check for cavitation, I dont see any visible tiny cracks but some slight discoloration in cys. 4 and 8 on the top and not next to any waterjackets. Anyway-i want to check for microscopic cracks using the method in the ws manual:25%kerosine, 75% light engine oil, wipe all off dry and then apply zinc oxide disolved in wood alcohal. Ok, i got the oil and kerosine, got rubbing alcohal but where would i get wood alcohal and zincoxide?? I went to Lowes and they had no clue. Is there another method of checking for microscopic cracks??

Yea, working on an 04 e350 5.4 with a noise at idle- think it's refered to as whooping or hooting and caused by the iac snorkel getting cracks on the inside or somthing-seen this on towncars. Also this bus has 240+ miles on it and there's 1 busted stud on the exaust manifold and i'm leavin it alone. I've done them on expeditions and navis and there pretty easy but never did one on an eseries and it looks pretty tight to do plus all that milleage on it.