Mbl35

Posted it from my phone. No internet svc. at home at the moment.

BBBIndustries.com has a free tsb and wire diagram database from early years to current. Nice.

Nevermind a dog defending you or your family. If you try to defend yourself now you can be charged. How did shit get so crazy Here in NY your duty is to run away, even if it means to jump out your window to get away from an intruder.

Just did a waterpump on an 04 gmc. Anyone ever see a cavitated housing on these? There was a crater and a smaller crater next to it in the housing.

Happened to me a few times at the ambulace company. Exactly how you described, the first time i had to be towed back to the shop and it started right up as soon as it rolled off the flatbed. The second one i had i let it sit until it started like 20 minutes later. Both times it was the fuelpump and no codes. The fuelpump was failing under load when it cooled down it will run again. But with the 336 and 341 sounds like it could be a harness concern, if you can get it to stall in or near the shop try pulling down on the cam and crank harness take outs and also behind the alternator area to see if it starts up. Actually could need a fuelpump and a harness-not uncommon from what i saw when i was there.

I think its 70-140-210. Pretty sure its that, you can call arp to verify. When you put the studs back only bottom them down and slightly snug, dont rail them down tight.

Im goung to go that route. If I dont like the spindle then I will send it back for another.

You said it ran hot, how does the oil filter stand pipe look. I had one that ran hot once and melted the injector o-rings and it overfueled. The oil filter stand pipe melted.

Another shop has me checking this out for them. This 03 focus with a 2.3l stalls at times. When it runs the pats light flashes then stops then some times just stays on. When you turn on the the a/c the theft light flashes instantly, it will surge and stall. No codes in the pcm, koer pass, koeo pass. No codes in the IC, battery voltage high and low codes in the abs and rcm and clear out and don't reapear. No check engine light or any other on. I never came across this before. All the grounds are good and powers, battery terminals are good. The shop replaced the transciever and disconnected the remote start that was on there. I did a wiggle test on the harness and it did'nt trigger anything. This shop initially called me to program keys for a used computuer from a salvage yard. I explained to them that it wont work becuase a new blank pcm is needed and an IDS to even try to blank out the pcm that they got. And im not even sure that is possible anymore with the latest IDS versions. I think they are right that it needs a pcm and they want to sell the customer a pcm from a company on ebay that puts all the info for you and you just got to program the keys-Is that possible . I did that with a ficm and it worked out very good but im not sure about a pcm. Also disconnected the alternator and still does it. It will do it when he a/c is off when you drive it. Before they sell a pcm they want me to find out any other info on this. Anyone see this before? If it is possible to program a pcm away from a vehicle then i will be programming the keys for them. If anyone can run oasis-1fafp36z93w330529 Thanks

Im afraid I might get one thats a little scored or worn. I was wondering if there was a company out there that puts new spindles on used knuckles like refurbished.

Yeah it has abs in the front. Its the same set up like an econoline cutaway.

I need a spindle for an 06 f350 rwd. Ford is way too expensive. Anyone know if there are any refurbished ones around? Im having trouble locating one.

The shop around the corner from my house had a truck with an external leak from one of the heads(so they say). I didnt beleive it becuase I never heard of it. Its an 05e350 box truck. I told.them the engine needs to come out-they thought it can be done without rnr the motor. Now they want to sell the customer a complete engine. The customer is not sure if he.wants to do the job now.

There even more fun to do on an ambulance that just drives into the shop after running all day in 95+ degree nyc heat. And if you ever get one with a rounded bolt head use the irwin brand round off sockets-they work like a charm.

Also check for power feed at the fuse, i think if it's like an impala then the ignition switch feeds power to the fuse. I had one with heater codes and a purge solenoid code and the ignition switch was bad. Also had a few with corosian in the switch connectors. Also i saw various gm models with crispy wireing.

Yeah, at the ambulance company they were too cheap to buy a press or a nice tool like this no matter how much I begged them. They just left a job like that for me and I had to get it done. So it was Hammer Time for me then sore back and shoulders. Its especially good for explorers-i hate taking those apart.

Tec time plus did a segment about this.

Yeah like a foreign car company that employs americans.

I just finished up a timeing belt and tuneup job on a 03 mitsubishi eclipse 3.0 24 valve.It ran great before I worked on it. After a few tries I got the marks and the tension perfect. I started it and it was sputering and running like crap wony get out of it's own way. Went over the fireing order and I crossed cyls. 3 and 5. Switched them and it accelerates perfectly. Now the idle fluctuates like crazy and has cam and crank sensor circuit codes. Can't find anything obvious. I think the distributor is on it's way out. I want this job done. I know the feeling.

Looking through the Hot Tools sale booklet my snapon dealer left and saw the data bus fault finder. It has 12 switchable data circuits and built in self test. Pretty cool.

Possibly synchronizer concern? Loose pin connection somwhere?

I miss them. No vmm needed. Just a pain to have to calibrate the screan all the time.

It is possible with the cab on. I did studs on an f350 a while back and didnt feel like lifting the cab due to all the extra ambulance crap on it. I posted for some help with getting the stud in on bank 2 bottom rear. On a tip from Mike Chan, I removed the tranny mount and I was able to get the stud in without a struggle. I prefer studs over bolts.

Bruce, the home made water manometer fits well into my curent tool budget. Is an adapter needed and what diameter hose?

Also from what i understand on that year it is possible for a cup to come loose and come out with an injector when removing it.