Matt Saunoras Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Hotline nailed it on my 6.4. That's why I ask questions, I'm still learning. One of the turbos(my guess is high) is putting oil in the intake and pressure in the crankcase. #8 ran 30psi low on manual compression and 1% on relative. All the rest came out 390psi and 0%. Finally got a chance to pull the left head off this evening. All the pistons on that bank are starting to round edges right under the intake valves. #2 is actually the worst with very noticable damage, #8 is second. There is a pretty good amount of metal transfer to the cylinder head all around the intake valves. I am going to pull the other head tomorrow. All my 6.4 failures up until this point have been catastropic. This one is borderline. I'm wondering if I'll have to put pistons and heads in this thing? during normal working hours I put EGR coolers and a rad in a 6.7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Got my at home bobcat job all wrapped up, now in my shop at home I have a 1937 f-1 pickup. I will post pics. A buddy of mine bought it to build a rat rod, but its in too good of shape to butcher, so we may restore it. Currently trying to get it running. Leaks (rotten) gas from everything, and has no spark. Power to coil ok, points are functioning ok. Fixed a few bad plug wires but are otherwise ok. I suspect coil, but have never even seen, let alone wrenched on a flathead v-8. Parts and info availabiltiy is becomeing a concern. Any tips and tricks? (Jim? ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 You can likely update that points and condenser garbage with electronic, google 'Pertronix'. Should be able to run just about any coil, also, once you update the points to the electronic. Don't forget to source out and remove the ballast resistor. Alternatively, yank the drivetrain and put something modern in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I am seriously digging my own grave. This 6.4 is annihilating me. It's way beyond what me or our shithole shop can handle. I was going to put pistons in it and found some heavy scores in the #1 and #3 rod bearing. sure enough the crank journal has a few marks in it that can easily be caught with a finger nail. Hotline says I need to put a crank in it and hone the cylinder walls. One problem. I don't have a fucking engine stand, cylinder hone or even a damn bore gauge. I admit, I could have easily purchased my own hone and gauge several years ago in preparation for this exact moment in time. Just like I've got my small tool box jammed with essential shop tools that came on my dime. So I approach the appropriate higher ups with the good news. I need an engine stand....and I need it yesterday. What does this accompish? I don't know yet, but there's no engine stand on order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 You definitely need a stand to work on these engines. If your company wants to be a truck dealer they have to get the gear to support the product. You probably want to contact the Hot-Line at this point and explain that you are not current equipped with the proper equipment and seek a short block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I am seriously digging my own grave. This 6.4 is annihilating me. It's way beyond what me or our shithole shop can handle. I was going to put pistons in it and found some heavy scores in the #1 and #3 rod bearing. sure enough the crank journal has a few marks in it that can easily be caught with a finger nail. Hotline says I need to put a crank in it and hone the cylinder walls. One problem. I don't have a fucking engine stand, cylinder hone or even a damn bore gauge. I admit, I could have easily purchased my own hone and gauge several years ago in preparation for this exact moment in time. Just like I've got my small tool box jammed with essential shop tools that came on my dime. So I approach the appropriate higher ups with the good news. I need an engine stand....and I need it yesterday. What does this accompish? I don't know yet, but there's no engine stand on order. Fuck that noise. Get P/A for a short block. Put on the P/A form the gouges in the cylinder wall are 30-40 thou deep. IMO, there's too much other shit to go wrong if you're going to be instructed to band-aid a motor together like that. Why the fuck did Ford release an 'enhanced short block' but then instruct guys to fucking hone marks out of the cylinder walls and change crankshafts?! Because now what happens, if say 2000 miles down the road it throws a rod because an EGR cooler fails... Customer PERCEPTION is, you just had the motor apart, completely, and now there's a rod hanging out of the block. Just my .02, your results may vary but I'd be wary of putting a band-aid on a shotgun wound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Alright, lucky for me, the situation has been temporarily resolved. My contact with hotline has been flawless the entire time and I think that may have saved my ass. I told them yesterday I didn't have the appropriate measuring tools for evaluating the cylinder bore and I believe that bought me some time, I feel like such a jerk for using that as an excuse but it's the truth. thankfully I am in constant contact with other "real" diesel techs in the area a was able to borrow a bore gauge over night. #8 was over spec by .002" right at the top of ring travel at the 12/6 o'clock position. it was barely in for taper but it became pretty obvious that #8 bore diameter was several thousandths larger than the other cylinders. I couldn't come near duplicating #8s diameter in any other cylinder. I spend most of the afternoon talking to hotline and filling out prior approval. They approved a 6007 which I think is a complete. Our engine stand woes will be solved too. The problem actually made it to the owner and we have ordered the norco 2 post engine stand with 6.0/6.4 adapters. Now all I have to do is get warranty to pay for this. Believe me, there will be plenty of pictures taken before this thing is tossed in the crate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbudge Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 I can't believe you guys fool around with trying to fix these engines if Ford is paying the bills. I won't even change a cam if Ford is paying. Time is money, and I don't get rewarded for trying to save a buck for someone else. They are all ticking time bombs, and I refuse to be held responsible when it undoubtably blows up again. Enhanced short block, no question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 We have the local machine shop come over and measure cylinder bores for us and then charge Ford for outside labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I'm going to get the appropriate tools to make accurate engine measurements. I've got a feeling this won't be the last time I encounter this. (unless I leave the profession) My complete will be in tomorrow, I'll probably go in sat to try and finish up.In the meantime I'm still building my cart. Welded on some cord hangers tonight. Almost ready for paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I will post a pic of the distributor when I get a minute Aaron, it is mounted on the front of the camshaft, has 2 dist caps, one on either side, and a dual pole rotor, with a sliding contact to the coil in between them. The coil makes up the top of the distributor body. Crazy ass setup if you consider the technology of the time. I have used pertronix parts in other setups, but I cant find any for this one. His long term plan is to build a rat rod out of this thing. We have already sourced a full rolling chassis with corvette rear suspension, and I'm pushing him for a 6-71 blown big cube small block, or a supercharged 5.0l coyote powertrain, both with electronic trans and fuel injection. We'll see I guess. Right now just trying to get it running(just for fun), and replacing all the glass, interior, door seals etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 bah! someone walked off with the chain for the engine crane! so guess who had to go to the hardware store and buy a $30 length of chain!? I pulled the shortblock with the 6.0 headbolt method. Not sure I wanna try that with a complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Umm...heh.... I watched a guy lift a 6.4 complete less turbos out with the turbo hold down bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Nothing in my bay except a new Norco 2 post engine stand with a 6.4 ready to be "reassembled". Looks like the oil pan can hold quite a few parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 I just put studs in the 07 im working on. I did not remove the evaporator box. I remived the left engine mount, with me and an asistant, we held the head up with a chain across the top and i slid the 3 lower studs in-(ones next to the evap box) held together with rubber bands and down on to the dowels. For the lower stud in bank 2 i pulled the trans miunt out to get clearance. Now im still waiting for the owner to get me a few more parts-suposedly on order. This is the last time i let people supply there own parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Three 6.0s. Two E-Series, one getting a set of coolers. The other an STC and dummy rail plugs as well as an F-Series getting an STC and dummy rail plugs. CHA-CHING!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 2001 International with a Labrie service body on the back with a leaking packer cylinder. Pin seized in the cylinder. This oughta be fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Umm...heh.... I watched a guy lift a 6.4 complete less turbos out with the turbo hold down bolt. I lift out complete 6.4L's with the both turbos this way. Put the turbo lifting tool in place first as to not disturb the turbo seals, then remove one bolt, attach the chain and re-torque it, then the next. Have the hook directly above the front bolt and it lifts out at a real nice angle. I tilt the cab enough to get a 4x4 between the front body mount. Works real nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 7.3 absolutely pouring fuel from the rh line. If I ever thought there was a chance of diesel catching fire it was this one. I couldn't see in the engine bay for 10 minutes while it smoked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 -40 this morning out at the homestead - that magical line where it doesn't matter if that's in celsius or farenheit. it's brisk outside. today has brought me all kinds of ice cubes ... - couple frozen batteries on an old 7.3 - snapped 4x vacuum harness and a frozen 4x solenoid on a 1/2 ton - 09 F150 for no heat from the driver's side. passenger side blend works but not so much on the left side. this is the fun one where you have to take out the floor vent from the bottom of the plenum in order to get the l/front blend actuator. shoot me now. can't wait to see what the afternoon brings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 6.7 with a P0401 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbl35 Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 02 f550 7.3 for very intermittant loss of power and stalls out when hot and hard starts at times. 03 f350 wrecker 6.0 for crank no start that the guy wants fixed yesterday so i told him to tow it away. 05 Saturn View with the honda v6 for a timing belt on friday. 09 fusian coming for a tuneup and some services. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 another 6.7 with a P0401. That's 3 in a week and a half. All are from the same company and have around 10,000 miles but over a thousand hours of runtime. 2 of the 3 needed radiators too. All 3 had ranch hands on the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 08 f-450, camshaft, all rockers, and #3 cylinder wall scored from bent rod. 07 GMC Duramax water pump and brakes. Chevy Aveo 16 bent valves from timing belt failure. 2001 Duramax Left head gasket leaking coolant externally and injectors. 08 6.4 leaking coolant, front crank seal, rear pinion seal and maintenance. 2008 yukon, ball joints, other front end work and some wiring. 2007 Suburban with a lock cylinder case binding. 2004 Medium Duty Chevrolet with an ABS problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 That's a big bay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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