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What's In Your Bay - Part V

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Keith Browning

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Second of the two 2014 6.7L oil pan leaks. Again, it looks like the silicone didn't bond to the upper oil pan. Plus it has a torque converter seal leaking as well as transfer case rear output seal leak. 

 

Just coming off a 4 day run of PDI's and used car inspections. Good to have some diesel work in my bay, even if it is a PITA oil pan job.

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2005 6L that I diagnosed a FICM on a few weeks ago that left so his "Buddy" could do the FICM. Now it's back with an aftermarket performance FICM, aftermarket oil cooler, which is covered in oil, and some billet filter and oil fill caps with lines running all over the place. One oil line is pushing on the engine harness and jammed the air inlet hose up into the degas bottle. Has a few stripped out valve cover bolt holes, the MAP sensor hose is not attached to the intake, P0611 even though the FICM_mpwr is at 54 volts steady( maybe the cause). #2 injector circuit and contribution, found the connector pushed down into the housing so I guess it's not connected. Told the guy I want an open VISA or I am not touching it. 

Not sure where it's been since it left, but it's back and the owner is not happy with the botch job done to this thing by others. So I get to "Make it right", then continue my original diagnosis of it stalling hot.

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I just finished re-installing an engine in a 2012 that the company towed in as a no start after they "installed" a new engine, fuel system, and turbo.  I have never in my life seen a truck so fucked up.  I billed a total of 30 hours on it repairing everything I could find wrong front to back.  Truck has just over 385,000 miles on her.

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Got an 04 F-550 here towed in for a no start. Dragged it in the shop and it started and died 3 times before it stayed running. Captured a good recording of IPR ramping up while ICP couldn't maintain. Now it won't not restart. Even this morning after it sat a whole day it still fired right up.

 

I guess I'm going to stick my tester IPR in it and go drive it around. Hopefully I won't have to get towed back

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My 6L keeps getting better. Found #2 injector side connector busted up and not plugged in, explains why it's running on 7 cylinders now. While waiting for the ok to replace the injector I let it run to see why it stalls. Turns out it dropped FICM sync right before it stalled and set a CMP circuit code. Checked the CMP harness and found both wires at the CMP connector bared and the taped used to seal them falling off. Fixed up that end of the harness and put in a new CMP sensor to be safe. Still waiting on the injector so I decide to properly route his Bulletproof oil cooler lines, in doing so I unplugged the engine harness from the PCM and found both CKP sensor wires also bared and poorly retaped, plus the CMP wires had been cut and had a small piece of wire spliced in on each. Fixed those wires up too. Now I have the go ahead on the injector. Found only 2 valve cover bolts that weren't stripped and the far back oil rail bolt hole was stripped too. A quick look at the right side reveals a few more stripped out threads. Now I am in the process of lifting the cab to fix all the messed up holes.

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Wow that sounds like fun.

 

The 6.0 here got a tester IPR and whatever I did disturbed something because now it's a plain no start with no sync or ficm sync. Our power was out for about an hour and just came back on.

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Worked on my own 6.0 all day. Taking it back to stock as much as possible. Put back in a stock turbo, FICM, calibrations, front driveshaft, trans pan and air filter.All ready to sell it and daily drive this.

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That's a damn nice looking truck Matt. You're making me jealous and tempted to pull the trigger on a '15 truck myself. Not sure what colour I would go with though. Either Tuxedo Black or Vermillion Red (no price difference between the two colours).

 

If I were to do this though, I guess I wouldn't be planning on EGR/oil cooler, FICM, injector replace on my 6.0 anymore. One thing would be for damn sure though. If I were to pull the trigger on a 6.7, I sure as hell will miss the hell out of my 6.0 when it goes. NOTHING beats the sound of a good running 6.0  :cry:

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The 6.0 has that classic diesel sound we've all grown to love.  I will miss mine for sure, it was a good truck that ran every day I owned it.  Did everything I could preventative and never really had a major issue thankfully. Tested out at least 6 turbo configurations on it.  Hopefully the new one will be fine without all the work.  I haven't seen a nice gray truck around yet, everyone seems to have black or white around here. Magnetic was hard to find, had to go over 300 miles away to get one.  My second option would have been Caribou but that was even more rare. 

 

For my 6.0 I have machined heads, high tensile strength head studs, every gasket you can imagine, main engine harness, lifter kits, etc all saved up for it that I can now unload and pocket the money.

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I love my 6.7 everytime I get behind the wheel. I do miss the 7.3 classic diesel noise but I am also enjoying the quite cab of a 6.7 too. I can finally hit a drive thru without shutting the truck off everytime and talk to my passangers without yelling to them!

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DITTO on that!!! I used to read about guys having to go through that a lot, until I bought my own. It sure is inconvenient having to shut the engine off at the drive-thru. Yes, the power is what really attracts me to the 6.7.

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Well still off topic I found a guy selling a set of 20" wheels and tires from a 2013 platinum. For $800 I think I'm making the 2 hour drive this weekend. Tires are 12-13/32.

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My 6L nightmare is running again. Last night it had no FICM SYNC, no SYNC and no RPM signal cranking. Came in this morning and rechecked my initial repair at the PCM, all looked good, plugged in the PCM and she fired right up. After re-pinning the CKP and CMP wires at the PCM, then changing out the engine harness hardshell at the PCM because one lock tab broke(we have an old 6L engine harness on hand) it is now running, and stays running. Pin fit must have been my final issue, most likely due to a few attempts by other techs to figure this one out. Now comes the task of figuring out what to charge the customer.

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Let me know if you can change the programmable parameter for the tire size when you do the swap. On my truck, I have a set of Lariat Outlaw five spoke rims with the LT275/65R20 tires which I switch out to my steel rims with snow tires and LT275/70R18 tires for the winter. I also change the parameters during the swap, just for the sake of perfection.

 

$800 is DIRT cheap if it's for four rims with tires on them, and in that condition too. Just one new rim alone will set you back more than that.

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I know, I can't pass them up but I'm going to hate buying new tires for 20" wheels when the time comes (same size as your outlaws). I need to check on the tire size parameters in IDS. Weren't there issues changing sizes on some new super duties?

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If you change the tire size you will get a check engine light. I've been told to try on a handful of trucks and everyone of them fails. Even if you change the gear ratio to match what would have come with the bigger tires.

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What was the code? The other guy I work with changed his tire size on his 14 and it was okay. I believe it just needed a BCM relearn for a P160A.He switched his tires from a 275/70R18 to a 295/70R18 and told me it didn't change his speed hardly at all. Switched to 275/65R20 in the IDS and the speedo was off even more than before he changed it so he changed it back.The difference between the tire size I have and what I'm going to is less than 1" in diameter. Not drastic at all.

 

Also Zack, we both have 3.55 rear ends with factory 275/70R18 tire size.  The only difference is mines a 250 and his a 350.  I will at least try it and see.  If it doesn't work I'll be the first to admit you were right. 

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What was the code? The other guy I work with changed his tire size on his 14 and it was okay. I believe it just needed a BCM relearn for a P160A.He switched his tires from a 275/70R18 to a 295/70R18 and told me it didn't change his speed hardly at all. Switched to 275/65R20 in the IDS and the speedo was off even more than before he changed it so he changed it back.The difference between the tire size I have and what I'm going to is less than 1" in diameter. Not drastic at all.Also Zack, we both have 3.55 rear ends with factory 275/70R18 tire size. The only difference is mines a 250 and his a 350. I will at least try it and see. If it doesn't work I'll be the first to admit you were right.

I have seen the bcm relearn. The 2 diesels I had didn't have that option. I also know there is that ssm about the bcm relearn. I don't remember what the code was, but the only way to clear it was to program as-built into the pcm and bcm.
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An early 2000s super duty conveniently dropped its rear driveshaft right outside the dealership today. I took that out while traffic whizzed by my head and drove it in the shop in fwd mode.

 

Then looked at a brand new 15 explorer for an airbag light. Found a bent pin for the LF crash sensor in one of the inline connectors. No one said a word about it on the prep. Of course it's being delivered tomorrow.

 

In my one bay is a 6.0 F350 that needs rear leafs and a steering box plus some other stuff. Gonna try to get that one done this weekend. Outside is a 6.4 that needs turbos.

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Went and picked up those wheels and tires today. Definitely what I would call good shape, only had 12k miles on them.

 

Then I made my way back to the shop to put them on. Surprisingly went off without a hitch. I was able to program the correct tire size, perform a "vehicle relearn" and clear the P160A. Put about 30 miles on them so far and they're great.

 

Never even set a tire pressure light which I found odd. The tire training tool is locked in the parts room and I won't have access to it until Monday.

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Those rims look nice on your new ride Matt. Is your new truck an XLT or Lariat? What are you going to do with your 18s?

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