Matt Saunoras Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 It's an XLT with the premium packageSpent a good part of the day putting a coat of wax on it and cleaning the wheels with a clay bar. There was quite a bit of grime built up on them I didn't notice at first. Not anymore though. The plan for the 18s is to use them as my winter wheels. Since the tires are basically new they should be fine for a season worth of snow around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 I wonder what the policy is with new vehicle purchases for employees in most dealerships. The reason I ask is because I priced out both an XLT and Lariat trucks online a while ago, and the Lariat truck works out to about $6000 more than the XLT truck at MSRP. From what little I heard, it's usually about $500 above dead cost isn't it? One thing is for damn sure. I am not getting into an F-150. They are priced way high. I might as well get into an F-250 6.7 for what the F-150 trucks are priced at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 My XLT with D-plan pricing and the $4000 super duty rebate (if you finance through Ford credit) wound up being slightly more than $10k off MSRP. It was well equipped though. Obviously the more you spend the more you get off for D-plan. I'm with you, even though the F-150 would be plenty of truck for what I need it just doesn't do it for me. Have you ever been to the D-plan site? Under super duties it will give examples of MSRP vs D-plan pricing. You can also search dealer inventories for your area or anywhere really. Find a truck you like, give the vin to your sales dept and they can get you what your price will be. For example I searched a zip code near Washington DC and found a truck that was ordered at a dealer in Maryland. It was outside my extended inventory range but certainly not outside our range for dealer trades. My truck was showing in dealer inventory but in fact it was ordered but hadn't even been built yet. I got lucky and found a truck that was only 3 weeks old when it finally showed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 2014 F550 that had a turbo replaced elsewhere and they forgot to check the CAC hose oring at the turbo because it's missing and setting a MAF code when it tries to go into regen. May be false regen though because of inaccurate MAF readings. Waiting for oring to come in. Meanwhile have another 2014 F350 with a bad turbo because of poor air filter maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Leaf springs on a SRW F-350 with a utility body on the back. Never occurred to me the body is so close to the springs that the bolts wont come out. That was a fun interesting adventure. May have involved a few pole stands and a hole saw. I had that hot side cac duct o-ring fall out on me one time. One of those things you usually learn the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 'Moonlighting' on my own stuff at home. Testing out my ancient (new to me) pneumatic bumper lift while rigging up a new 7-pin trailer plug on the headache rack for the camper, mounting the light bar, mounting the lamps and wiring them via upfitter 1 and a high beam triggered relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 2003 6L, 90,000 kms. Blown out ICP and oil soaked pigtail. Don't see too many of these anymore. Wires were full of oil, had to cut the harness back about 2 feet before I found some clean,dry wires to crimp to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Getting killed by a high miles 6.0 auction truck bought by my best fleet customer. Rebuilt the whole front end, balljoints, inner axle seals, steering box, did rear leafs plus fixed a few small coolant leaks (suspicious). Found it odd that its here for all that stuff being they're quite capable of the work themselves. Whatever, fixed it the best I could and flushed the cooling system clean as a whistle. Driving it post repair, almost ready to let it go and it dies on me after pulling a long hill. No base oil registering on the IC so we tow it back to the shop with my old truck and a chain. Noticed it's dripping coolant again too. Pulled the regulator and its free but the oil is scalding hot and really runny. Pull the pump gears and they look not terrible but not perfect so I put a set in, pack it with vasoline and it fires right up. No idea what's going on but the coolant leak is the lower rad tank seperated from the core. It definitely wasnt like that before. Something weird is going on here but I'm not sure what yet. I'm waiting for a call back to see if they put whatever oil is in this thing. May not even be the right grade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 That damn truck was overfilled with oil by about 5-6 quarts. As hot as it was yesterday I can only imagine how frothed up and aerated it got after I pulled that big hill right before it died. It makes sense though, when I pulled the pressure regulator out I swore up and down I never saw so much oil come out. So I nailed that concern (maybe) and now I've got the lingering cooling system pressure concern. Built a total of 11 psi while running normally. No pressure spikes under hard throttle, dropped down to about 10 psi once I got back to the shop. ECT is running 200-205 all the time with EOT about 10-15 degrees hotter. The new rad and new coolant definitely helped it some. Not sure what I'm going to tell them yet. The truck already has head studs and some kind of welded up EGR cooler but that doesn't mean anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 My killer 6.0 came in with a boost leak and a P0299. Turbo was sticking,I could get the boost up to 29 PSI if I wanted. Vanes had some wear, so I replaced the turbo with a non Ford reman(bad idea, more about that later) Both manifolds were leaking so I had them planed and installed gaskets. After I got it back together the over boost was gone but still had a boost leak. I find that the left manifold to up pipe was still leaking, just figured the new bolts I used when I did the manifold gaskets would have taken care of that. Nope it needed a manifold because the flange surface was not true anymore. Get it back together and it was better but I still thought I could hear a boost leak. So I had the customer drive it and he said he thought it sounded normal, ok I must be hearing things. He takes and drives it for a month then calls and says it seems to have low power when towing and some kind of air noise. There is that boost leak, I find the reman turbo leaking around the VGT shaft housing, get the turbo warrantied. I smoke test the warranty turbo before I install it no leaks. I put the truck back together and I still have a boost leak, I find the the plastic CAC tube has a crack in it that probably gets worse when the engine is torqued. Well that was the last leak and now that truck runs fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Those plastic cac boots suck. I upsell the metal tube version whenever possible. I've been burned by more than a few that had a small leak. Usually don't know anything is amiss until the air filter comes out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 First thing I do when a 6L comes in with a lack of power issue is push on that tube while it's running, guaranteed to find a leak if it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 I'm shipping my latest nightmare truck. Threw a rad in it and found the fan clutch wiring not cut but actually sucked into the blades keeping them from turning at all. Once I swapped the clutch out and put some more miles on it my ECT and EOT stabilized to a normal range. Also my cooling system pressure dropped down to 8 psi and stayed there for 25 miles. That's going to have to be good enough for now. Putting the correct grade and amount of oil in it helped a lot too I'm sure. Now that the air is all worked out it runs like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 2008 F350 6.4L, another retail oil cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 I'm looking at an 04 6.0 that definitely needs a turbo cleaning plus EBP sensor and pigtail. Also has a rotted away rear backing plate causing a bunch of noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 2005 F450 highway maintenance, gravel, sweeper truck with fuel in coolant. #8 misfire, going loosen the fuel lines at the filter housing to see if it's the left head. The truck is from out of province and these guys want to get home. Edit, pulled cac tube and air inlet, both full of oil. Checked crankcase pressure, high enough to not be worth a new head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 They okay'd a 6006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Picked up 4 285/60/r20 tires for my 09 f350. 2 have 14/32nds and 2 have 9/32nds firestone transforce a/t load range e. 200 bucks. Considering I drive less than 10k miles a year they should last quite a while. Now I have to put a left front axle seal in my daily driver, a 2002 trailblazer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Matt, how's your new ride for MPGs compared to your old 6.0? I've been looking at a couple 6.7s and looking at some numbers. I can only manage 12 MPGs with my 2007 F-250 CCSB truck. Although I admit I do have a pretty heavy right foot. Just yesterday, at another dealer I was offered pretty decent $$$ to trade mine in. Makes me kind of wonder how much I can or should get selling it privately. I have about 210000 kms. (130000 miles) on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Damn, only 12 mpg. I drove 70 to 75mph to Idaho and averaged 13.7 in my v10. Brought home a 7500 lb camper, over Teton pass which is a 10 percent grade for 20 miles. Over 1 other big pass, and on the return trip I averaged 10.3 mpg. Back on track, I see anywhere from 15 to 19 mpg on the 6.7 4x4 f350 and f250 Trucks. I have a friend who drives 4 hours from Denver every other week and he is right at 18 mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Every tank fill up is usually just less than 95 litres. I get about 500 kms out of each fill up. By my math, that equates to about 12 MPGs unless I'm doing something wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 With my 6.0 I could go about 400 miles on 30 gallons. 12-13 mpg seems about right. I can already tell the 6.7 is much better, it's still showing 18.0 mpg on the instrument cluster. They offered me $6k on trade in at my dealer which I why I still own my old truck. I need to get at least $8k for it. The body is the issue, can't hide the rust anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I got offered $10K to trade mine in on Saturday. With that amount for a trade, that would put me at $320 bi-weekly for payments for 6 years. I was paying $270 bi-weekly for my 6.0 that I bought used, for four years. How are you calculating MPGs? I hope you're not actually believing the MPG meter. I calculate it by zeroing the trip odometer at every fill up and diving the distance travelled by the amount of fuel dispensed on fill up to give me an actual figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech03 Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 2013 F450 with the tank delaminating, low fuel rail pressure. Here we go again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 I got offered $10K to trade mine in on Saturday. With that amount for a trade, that would put me at $320 bi-weekly for payments for 6 years. I was paying $270 bi-weekly for my 6.0 that I bought used, for four years. How are you calculating MPGs? I hope you're not actually believing the MPG meter. I calculate it by zeroing the trip odometer at every fill up and diving the distance travelled by the amount of fuel dispensed on fill up to give me an actual figure. The dash is pretty close but not accurate. I would say its within 2-3mpg of the had caculated numbers for me at least. I always check it at time of fill up and its been pretty much the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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