Mekanik

Bruce, What about opening the relief valve on the fuel system tester to see if the engine starts or runs better as a test? I had a 7.3l a long time ago that would barely run because the injectors were all damaged by contaminated fuel. If I opened the fuel drain, the engine would smooth out and actually run pretty decent. The way it was explained to me was that the barrel and plungers did not want to move up and down and they got fuel from the side of the injector. So if the fuel pressure drops it will be easier for the barrel and plungers to move up and down.

It sounds like I have a lot of good advice so far. I never really had time to look at it before I was taken off of it to look at something else. I have been working on other stuff since. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to bring it back in and take a good look at the IPR wiring. Thanks.

Mike, maybe open the valve for the fuel tester while trying to start the engine. I know that with a 7.3l if the injectors are scored it will run better with the fuel drain open because there is less pressure in the inside of the injector allowing it to open and close properly. I have never tried it on a 6.0L, but what do you have to lose.

Maybe thats a problem. That seems a little fast. Is'nt cranking speed usally around 150RPM? low compression = fast cranking speed

The heads are torqued down and I just need to put the intake back on. Torquing the headbolts was really not that bad. I removed that heat shield on the firewall just so it dosen't get damaged and it gave me a little more room with one headbolt. I stood on my stool, used my 1/2 breaker bar with a pipe. I'm way more beat up from replacing a mode door actuator on a Ford Five-Hundred earlier this week than I am from this headgasket job. I also use a topside creeper. I think that helps a lot.

Take the belt off the crank and see if it starts. We have had a couple with A/C clutches that were frozen and wouldn't let the engine turn fast enough to start.

Mike, are you sure you read that right? Your the last person that I would think would want to do headgaskets in-vehicle.

I'm curious, when you hook up IDS, does it recognize that it is an E350 and not a F350?

Hotline Response- Jim, check your connection at the 4X4 switch. We have had concerns of this. Is it possible that they have been swapping PCMs and this truck has a PCM from a 4X4 vehicle?

I'm working on a 2006 F350 that would not start on two occasions. One time was after a hot soak and the second was after sitting for several hours. On both occasions the engine started after letting it sit for 40 min. This truck was at another dealer that just cleared the codes and then charged $100.00. The funny thing is that it is still under the diesel warranty. The customer brought it to our shop. It hasn't acted up since and there are no DTCs. I looked at the reciept from the other dealer and supposedly there was a P0299 and P2263. I'm not too worried about the P0299, but I don't think I have ever dealt with a p2263. It is for the IPR circut. I graphed the ICP and IPR a coulpe times today after I got it really hot and then shut it off for a couple minutes. The graph looks fine and it starts right up. That makes me think that it might either be a bad IPR or something with that circut. I have not had time to really dive into it yet. Anyone run into this DTC before?

I still use a coworker to install the heads while using the engine hoist. I just think there is less of a struggle than trying to work around the tire, cooling fan stator, fuel lines, ect... The heads are back on the engine waiting for me to torque the headbolts. The job has been going pretty good so far. I'll see how I feel after the 90x3 shoulder workout.

Thats too bad. I have found that even with the body removed, an engine hoist to lift the heads makes the job a lot easier.

I have a set-up kind of like that. Removing the battery is pretty easy. I was just wondering about removing the covers in-vehicle to save a little time.

Oh I get it. Your standing inside the engine compartment. Do you always do headgaskets in the vehicle?

You take the radiator and intercooler out?

I have decided to do headgaskets in-vehicle on this F350 that I'm working on. There are so many aftermarket lights, wiring, crap, ect... I don't want to spend several hours dealing with all this add on crap and end up not getting paid for it. I decided to just bite the bullet. Who knows, I may end up doing it faster in the vecicle. I did this once a long time ago, and I think it was actually my first 6.0L headgasket job. Does anyone have any tips? Anything besides just pull the body off?

I actually take those out anyway. It seems like a tight fit and I would hate to damage one of those trim pieces. The next one I get I think I might give it a try.

Have you re-done the power balance test? I'm thinking you just have another bad injector. If it is belching as much smoke as you say it is then it probably has a leaking tip. I would think that would give you a inaccurate relative compression test result. It may be trying to fire the cylinder during the test. Definately do the fuel system test. I do that every time I replace an injector.

Has anyone ever done one without removing the battery? I have done 2 so far exactly the way the book says to do it with removing the battery. It looks like it could be done. It might just be a little tricky removing the torx and allen bolts on the left side. Anyone???

I'm sure he wouldn't like to get followed by some Big Anrgy Hillbilly.

Thats great!!!

When you did the rear cover did you leave the HP oil pump cover bolted on? I have done it succesfully, but you need to be really careful. I have seen a few HP oil cover gaskets leaking after the rear cover was re-sealed. Has anyone ever dropped the bolts in the engine when removing the HP oil pump cover? The 2 bolts that are right under the egr cooler. Just curious. I will remove them as soon as I get the cover tilted up so they don't fall in the engine.

I don't think I have had any luck removing the HP oil pump cover without at least loosening the up-pipe flanges. I have seen several covers where the ear that bolt for the rear heat shield is mounted to. What is the trick to removing it?

Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech ....who works at a dealership that employs the most hideous looking female employees ....but loves hot women with big boobies ....and hates working on E-Series with 6.0L ....that is really into golden showers LOL I couldn't resist Back to the topic... I filled out a DRR a long time ago and never heard anything and I don't think the labor time changed. I lost faith in the system very quickly. We had a guy from SLTS visit the shop I was at a long time ago and he attended our shop meeting. This was around 1998 when we were doing many sub-frame nut and bolt recalls on Taurus/Sable and Continentals. For those of you that aren't familiar with this recall, we drilled 2 holes in the floor, replaced both rear sub-frame nuts and bolts for a mere .6hr. Back in 1992-1993 we had a similar recall on the same vehicle line. This recall was a little different. We would replace the 2 rear sub-frame bolts only for .6hr. If the nuts spun, then we would replace those too and I think we got paid 1.2-1.5 to replace both rear bolts with the nuts. basically the same recall but for half the time. We asked this gentleman(total fucking asshole)from SLTS why such a difference. Did the procedure get easier over the years? He didn't really have a straight answer. He claimed that with the use of air tools to remove the bolts the procedure became faster. 36 Minutes faster? I still remember one of the techs getting loud with him, "What did the guy use a fucking hand auger to drill the hole in the floor back in 92? " This was around the same time period that I filled out the DRR. I realised that it was smoke and mirrors. Don't ever forget that if they actually do review a labor operation, there is a possibility that it will get cut. They make us aware of this to make us think twice about filling out a DRR.

That is really disappointing news.