Mekanik

I work on hybrids too, and have only done minor 'repairs'. I'm curious to see how much better fuel economy these things will get in 10-15 years.

Tourqing that nut is SUCH a bitch.

Aaron, I was thinking the exact same thing when I got the memo on my toolbox. I can kind of understand the need to have prior approval for injectors because I have seen too many 'techs' replace injectors without EVER checking fuel pressure. But on the other hand, I performed my diag thoroughly and accurately and they tried to tell me it was normal after making me jump through hoops.

I'm not sure if this applies to you guys up in Canada, but for us, as of November 1st, prior approval is required for injectors. I think they dropped the prior approval for EGR coolers though.

Has anyone else had problems getting prior approval for 6.0L fuel injectors? I had my first experience with injector prior approval this morning. I’m working on a 2007 F250 that is dropping two cylinders after a cold start. I go through the diag, fix a fuel pressure problem and then try to get prior approval. I have to say that I'm really specific in my explanation of my diag and why I am replacing said parts. They message me asking how long the engine is misfiring after starting cold. Well I didn't have my stopwatch with me, but my best guess is 60-90 seconds. They message me back saying that it is normal for this engine to misfire for 90 seconds. Prior approval for injectors is DENIED!!! I made sure to describe the misfire as dropping all the way to the bottom of the power balance screen, and they tell me that it is normal to do this for a minute and a half? I call hotline and explain my situation to an engineer. The guy totally agreed with me and said there must be a 'communication problem'. He told me that there wasn't anything wrong with the information or the details that I sent in. I got my approval and the truck is fixed, but I felt like I really had to jump through some hoops. This is going to be a really long winter if this is how it is going to be with injector replacements. Anyone else have this problem?

I thought you were going to add that all five of the trucks had this problem before this "heater" was installed.

Pretty funny.

The truck came back in. Coolant level was full and the oil level was down 1 quart. There wasn't any oil in the downpipe, but when I remover the turbo, I looked really closely at the turbine wheel and could see some oil behind it. It was more evident with the turbo dis-assembled. I put a new center-section on it and it is fixed.

I have a customer coming in tomorrow that had a injector recall with a re-program done at another dealer. His complaint is that during regen at a stop the engine runs rough and surges. He is also complaining that there is no message that comes up automaticly when it goes into regen. His third complaint is that the regen lasts longer. He told me that he has a short 15 minute drive to work and it has been stuck in regen for two days. I told him that if that is the way the new software is, than that is how it is. Anyway the truck is coming back in tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any input on this. Thanks

I was sold a long time ago when I couldn't drill through a stud that I already heated up. I borrowed a Thunder Bit and it cut through like I was drilling through a soft piece of wood. That's awesome that someone can do that to a drill bit.

I haven't seen any early failures, but don't work on many econolines anymore. They used to pay much more and I think it was econoline ball joints that paid for my wedding nine years ago.

I was thinking the exact same thing, because I was thinking of a 4.0l SOHC.

It really takes that long to build fuel pressure? I have seen many fuel systems leak down to 5-10psi, but I think that as long as there is some pressure it will start fine. I battled a Taurus that had a long crank intermitently that was caused by no injector pulse. That was a nightmare. Long story short, if you don't have a good crank signal it could cause a long crank.

I agree with everything that has been said. Are you sure that those are the cylinders that are misfiring and not just what the power balance tells you? I saw a vehicle once where the CMP was not installed properly, and the power balance was showing cylinder #4 misfiring, but it was actually a cylinder on the other side of the engine that was misfiring. Is this a steady misfire or does it come and go? Manual compression test?

I was drilling through studs that several other techs attempted to weld a nut to. The studs were really hard to drill through. I tried the drill doctor, but the bits just aren't the same.

The best drill bits I have used are Snap-On 'Thunderbits'. I use them mostly for drilling out broken exaust studs in 4.6l, 5.4l, 6.8l engines. I think I have gotten my money's worth from this set and they have become a little dull. I think I'm due for a new set. I wanted to know if there was a better drill bit out there. Any suggestions?

Dwayne, I understand what you're saying about laying the turbo on the side. I didn't have the turbo apart the first time I had the engine apart. I didn't see the oil in the turbo until the back of the vehicle was raised two feet in the air, with the engine running at 2000RPM for five minutes. I figured that was because the turbo drain was pointing up and causing the oil to back up. Isn't there a hole in the back of the muffler that the coolant or oil could drip out from? Greg H, I'm not totally sure what to make of the smoke. At first I thought it was oil, but a co=worker said it was steam. Keith, <Cough-cough> Greg K, I was kind of thinking it was a turbo. I had it apart and cleaned it. There was oil behind the turbine wheel, but I thought that was from having the back of the truck up so high. Maybe it was leaking all along and raising the back end just made it worse. I didn't want to put a part on the truck that it didn't need. Mutter, I actually ran the truck out of fuel when I was road testing it (35 miles to empty, my ass!). So the truck has good fuel in it. I didn't do a crankcase pressure test. It runs like a raped ape.

Hey guys, I'm sorry I haven't posted on a while. I have been very busy. I'm working on a 2007 F250 that is equipped with a Banks tuner. The customer's concern is that it blows white smoke out the tailpipe on accel. The engine ran really good when it came in and the only DTC it had been for the EGR throttle plate. I blew the DTC off because it isn't even equipped with a EGR throttle plate. Anyway, I performed the coolant loss tsb. The ECT/ EOT split was 17 degrees difference, and the cooling system pressure was 15psi (with the cap venting at 14psi). I bench tested the EGR cooler OVERNIGHT in the sink, with no bubbles. I tried to get head gasket approval and they told me to lift the back of the truck two feet, open EGR valve wide open, 2000 RPM for five minutes. They messaged me that head gaskets will not cause white smoke(I think I have seen white smoke from head gaskets on a chipped 6.0l). I did the oil cooler kit and re-assembled the truck. Then I re-checked the coolant pressure and performed the wacked-out test that they wanted me to do. Then I pulled the EGR valve out to inspect for coolant as instructed-No coolant. The next day I have authorization for head gaskets... I tear the engine apart and find three of four cylinders on the right side leaking very badly. I clean and perform the head warpage check per workshop manual and re-assemble the engine. It still smokes on accel from a stop. Now here is where it gets a little weird. The second time I had this thing apart, I noticed that the exhaust turbo outlet was soaked with oil( The very first thing I did to this truck was disconnect the downpipe and inspect for oil from a leaking turbo, and it was dry. I figured with the truck on such a huge decline for five minutes, the oil drain was pointing up and the oil was probably getting backed-up, thus causing it to leak out of the center section seal. After a long hard road test and the truck still smoking, I disconnected the downpipe and found that it was dry. I had a turbo doing this before, but there was a nice trail of oil on the inside of the downpipe. I re-checked the ECT/ EOT split-5 degrees. I re-checked the cooling system pressure- 5psi. I feel like the problem is not in the cooling system and it only smokes when you take off from a stop or if you are driving really slowly and accel a little bit. It will also do it if you give it a slight brake torque. I disconnected the Banks tuner with no difference. I'm taking a few days off and the guy took the truck to drive for the weekend. Any ideas? I really think I drove it long enough to burn off all the coolant and oil from the exhaust, and the truck runs great.

Yeah I guess it includes a lot of people that happen to be in the bottom of the barrel. Not to look down on people, because I used to work at a quick-lube place when I was 15. I hope I'm dead before I'm old and shitting on myself. I can't even imagine dealing with those old people.

I kept the car for 4 days and it appears to be fixed. The car wouldn't start when the customer came to pick-up the car. He was trying to use an un-programmed key from his keyring and NOT one that I programmed when I replaced the PCM. My effing service writer didn't tell him about that and to topp it off, he lost one of the keys that I programmed. Then I had to go throught the process to program the customer's other key. He paid me for it though.

I can't believe auto mechanic was in this list. Click Here

Dentists piss me off. We(I) spend so much money for my wife's never ending dental work. The rotten thing is dental insurance pays for so little of the cost. Total effing rip-off!

Well the redundant grounds for the PCM didn't fix the car either. I talked to a third engineer at hotline and he had me taking a very close look at the CKP circut. He told me thet the PCM sends 1.5v down each CKP wire to the sensor with KOEO. I checked the voltage KOEO, and found that at one wire I had a steady 2.5V and the other it was 2.5V, but if I bent the wire back and forth at the CKP connector it would fluctuate beetween 2.5V and about 50mv. This voltage is used to bring up the voltage so RFI won't mess up the CKP circut. The engineer was thinking I had a weak voltage reading at the CKP circuts. I replaced the CKP connector and so far so good. I want to keep it for a while to see if it is fixed or not. If it is not fixed my next step will be to measure the CKP voltage while cranking. I'm open to other ideas though if anyone has any suggestions.

The forum on this site?

It didn't fix the problem. Even though I load tested the ground curcuts to the PCM and they tested good, I made redundant ground curcuts to the PCM. We'll see what happens.