Mekanik

Well if I remmember right, the p0676 will turn the MIL on. The P1298 is for a failed IDM. I can't remember if that one will turn the MIL light on. If DTC P1663 and P1667 are set together, with or without DTC P1668, GO to FJ6 . If DTC P1298 is also present REPLACE the IDM. If DTC P1662 is also present, GO to NC1 . The pinpoint test flat out says to replace the IDM. I know its expensive and it would be nice to have another IDM to plug in just to make sure , but for what its worth a new IDM has always taken care of that DTC for me. We have a lot of 7.3s that get towed in and won't start because of the IDM. Even if the P1298 won't turn the MIL on, it may save your customer a tow bill and some inconvenience.

I'm sorry. I was thinking P0442 which is a small leak detected. I looked at the definition of P0443: The PCM monitors the state of the EVAP canister purge valve circuit output driver. The test fails when the signal moves outside the minimum or maximum limit for the commanded state. Are you looking at the canister purge or the vapor managment valve? The canister purge is under the vehicle toward the rear, and the VMV is either under the hood ou tucked in a fenderwell. Like Jim said, if you are trying to manipulate an output device and there is a -!- instead of a -#- it is because for whatever reason the conditions are not right for IDS to control the actuator. For example if the engine is running and the transmission is not in park or the wheels are spinning a little bit in neutral, the PCM will not let you control the actuator.

Have you done the evap test with IDS? Can you manipulate the canister purge valve and the vapor managment valve with IDS while monitoring the FTP voltage? I believe the PCM provides the ground for the VMV, so you would need to activate the VMV with IDS to test the ground circut. I have replaced many fuel caps and canister purge valves for p0443 and p0455. I have also had many others that I test and do not find a leak.

This tool was from Matco. I thought just the idea of pushing the porcelian down was a great idea. I was about to buy one too. I couldn't believe the thing would break the first time it was used. Is the current Ford tool different than the first one that came out? the reason I ask is because The ford tool has always worked pretty good for me. I should mention that I have only had to remove three broken plugs in a 5.4L 3V. I'm usally too buried in other stuff to do tune-ups.

The day I got back from my first transmission class I get a 97 F350 with the same problem. It also had a 4R100 or E4OD. Someone put a re-man trans in it probably for the same problem, but the service writer didn't ask why the trans was replaced in the first place. my first transmission job and a total cluster-fuck. It didn't take long to figure out that I had a chaffed wire in the steering column. The O/D light on the shifter was not working, so the customer didn't know that the overdrive was being commanded off and on. There is no way to say what it is at this point

Thats why I buy my tools own my own on the internet. The last time I bought an impact gun, I bought it for less that the tool guy's cost. Look what i found: CLICK HERE

I'll definately try it next time. I guess it would impossible to do it in chassis right?

I never thought about using it for cranking the headbolts 90 degrees 3 times. It just seems like you would be turning it forever. You never knopw unless you try. Maybe I'll try it next time. From what I understand the studs don't have to be that tight that you would need a torque multiplier.

How tight do the studs need to be tourqued? The only time I use the torque multiplier is when I am torquing a pinnion nut.

This is an Air Force truck that pulls planes? Like in that 6.4L superbowl commercial?

That looks awful.

I wonder if you removed the glowplugs and cranked the engine if you might be able to see anything.

Is this engine using coolant?

Thanks for all the feedback guys. The guy I work next to managed to get the broken EGR Valve out. The guy is good. His air chisel is like an extension of his right arm. This is the same guy last week that was removing a broken plug in a 3 valve 5.4L and broke the tool off in the spark plug. He was able to extract the broken tool and then remove the spark plug. When you guys break the Ford puller, does your dealer have to buy another one or is there a warranty on the puller? Because if the shop is going to have to spend $300.00, we might as well order the elbow too. I can totally see a revised removal procedure with a WAN in the furure.

Maybe I should have mentioned that I move the body around a little bit so it is in the exact spot it was when it came in before I tighten the bolts. I think that is the biggest problem getting the bolts to go in straight. If it is in the right sopt I should be able to drop the bolt and start it by hand. Also those bolts under the carpet are the last ones that I put in. I think its also important to take a good look at those mounts that the bolt threads into. If it is not in the right posioion it will not go all the way up to the body.

The guy working next to me is replacing the EGR Valve. He was having a really hard time using Ford's puller and then the valve broke off and is still stuck in the housing. Any tricks? Anyone else here run into this problem? I have never had to do a EGR Valve in a 6.4L yet.

I have never had a problem getting the bolts to go in straight and I always turn them a few turns by hand to make sure they are not cross-threaded.

Oh WPI. Its a company that does our warranty tickets. I really have no complaints about them. I have worked in shops that have a warranty clerk, or the service manager, director is doing the warranty tickets.

I know there is always more than one way to do things but I always just remove the trim piece on the floor and squeeze my arm and air ratchet under the carpet.

I always thought so. I just write down everything I do...

I replace the intake gaskets and HP oil pump cover gasket too in addition to front cover, front crank seal, rear main, rear cover. I usally end up getting 19-20hrs. We sent out our warranty tickets to WPI.

I'm Tommy Torque-Stick and Lance.

Aaron, you didn't think that my reply was sarcastic?

LMAO

Maybe I'm just getting weak, but lately I have been having the hardest time getting that black CAC tube back on the intake.