Mekanik

Same thing here. We have a customer that says his fuel ecomomy has dropped since the recall and his perception is that it is going through regen moree since the reprogram.

Topside creepers are really nice. Our shop has a couple. I used to have a big pad that I made from the protective material that bumper covers are shipped in. That thing was really comfortable to lay on. The only problem was one time I was laying on it, I broke off the little nipple on a 6.0L's radiator.

It will probably save a lot of transmissions. I don't know if that is a good thing or not. I bet the guys plowing will hate this.

I have had 2 2008 f250s in the last month with the MIL lamp on and a misfire dtc in memory. The one today was for cylinder #6. In both cases the engine ran fine, no wiring chaffes on the banjo bolt. I know there is a message about the connector going into the valve cover not being seated and wiring chaffes on the banjo bolt, but that was OK. Also there is a message about checking connectors for injectors under the valve cover, but my service writer didn't want me to did that deep into a vechicle that I cannot even reproduce the problem. Has anyone else has had misfire dtcs in memory and not been able to produce the problem?

The noise should basically stop when you close the IPR all the way. I think your on the right track. Do you know where in the engine the noise is coming from? Left bank, right bank? I think that if the noise changes when manipulating the IPR, it is probably OK, but follow the tsb. Also to simulate a warm engine, plug in the block heater.

IMO, I think you'll be fine. I like Keith's ides. Thats like performong open heart surgery. I think I rember reading on this site about draining the oil and then running the engine with a garden hose pouring water into the crankcase. Seriously though, I think the engine will be allright. There is only so much you can do in a driveway. Besides, these engines are pretty tough.

Well I guess in theory you don't even need a scan tool to reset the VGT learn, but you will not know if it has been done successfully. If you can monitor VGT_LRN, VGTCNC, EOT TEMP, then you will be able to do it.

That still is a lot.

What year? The bolts on 2003 and early 2004 are harder to remove than the newer ones. Late build 2004 and newer vehicles usally have missing turbo bolts. If it has inferred EBP, I would also perform the re-learn procedure.

That was a good one! The shorter CAC huh? Are there other factors that limit boost pressure like the calibration in the PCM, FICM? OHNO60- seriously? you have pulled 300 6.0l's? I have not pulled that many engines in my life.

Definition of Windmilling

Mike-Do you mean like not available?

Thanks for the replies. This thing is totally torn down and in the process of getting fixed. One interesting thing the tech found it that there are two valves bent on the cylinder that had the bad cam follower. Apparently when the roller came apart it made the valve open a little further than it was supposed to and kissed the piston. There are two valve marks on the #6 piston. They were not obvious. You had to look closely even after the piston was cleaned. Good thing he took the heads off.

+1The last one I did was like that. This was the one, where the guy took the truck after I diaged it and was plowing for over a month.

Well I'm not bruce. But if you just leave it unplugged or better yet, cut the vref wire from the connector and then put some heat shrink around it so it cannot possibly short to ground I think you would be fine. It just seems like a waste of money to put a sensor on this truck that the PCM does not even look at. I actually know a tech that always leave the EBP disconnected on trucks with inferred EBPs.

I think this thing has a few problems. I used to see a lot if FICM harnesses chafe on the valve cover bolt or stud right under the FICM. I don't think the p0231 or p0460 are related to the engine wiring harness. p0528, p0562 might be the fan clutch. the p0403 is probably an EGR valve. But if you can't duplicate anything, I wouldn't do anything. There is a link on the PTS website that shows pictures of wiring chafes on these engines. Good Luck

Thanks Bruce.

Bruce, Is it possible that the gasket under the high pressure resivoir housing is leaking internally back into the crankcase?

I'm just messing with you Aaron. Out of all the customers I deal with, the young Male, Mustang owner is my least favorite.

I'm not really into sports either. I was raised by my mother, so when most boys were watching football with thier dad's, I was watching soap operas with my mother. We actually had a superbowl party last night. The last 5 minutes were really cool, but I spent most of the night talking with my friends and neighbors. If I got free tickets to go see nascar, I would probably take my family there, but I deal enough with cars at work. I do watch a little bit of the Tour De France on tv when that is on, and I did watch both marathons when the olympics were happening. I'm into cycling and running, but I have never been good at team sports.

What about the UFC fight tonight? BJ Penn vs. George St.Pierre

Thats fine. Remebmber, you cannot fix a 6.0L. you can only treat it's symptoms. Kind of like herpes.

What did those guys think about your Chevette?

Rob, If you are using the new diesel fuel tester 310-193, with the valve open to simulate WOT, your minnimum spes is 45psi. If you do not have this tester you should check fuel pressure on the road starting from a stop up to 50MPH. Agian your minnimum spec is 45psi. If it is 45 psi at idle, then I would suspect you still have a problem. I have replaced a few regulators and a bunch of fuel pumps for this problem. Of course there could also be a restriction in the tank. You can test this by doing a restriction test, checking how much vacuum you have in the fuel line going to the pump from the fuel tank. BTW, I looked at my t30 socket. It is a "Truecraft". Sounds like it came from K Mart.

We have an 2003 f450 in the shop with a blown up cam follower kind of like the pictures of this one: Clich Here the truck has just over 200,000 miles on it. The DP wants the tech to take it apart and fix it. I think that could be done. It would just need a cam, lifters, front cover with a pump and maybe a set of bearings. The customer supposedly found a blog yesterday saying that this is an epedemic. Saying that there are 700 trucks in the country that are down and have this same problem. I have 2 questions: First of all it this really en epidemic? I highly doubt it because we have only seen a couple. I know there are some here that frequent many message boards. My second question is are you guys fixing theese or replacing with small blocks, or long blocks? Thanks!