Brad Clayton

Most of the "T" tests are just common sense. If you decide to take L2, take the composite vehicle portion first, it will answer nearly half of the multiple guess questions on the other test.

The cam signal falling that far behind the ckp signal sounds like the ckp trigger wheel is slipping badly on the crankshaft.

Quote: One memorable occasion was a 6.4, according to OASIS it had never had a wrench on it before. Seven torque converter nuts was all there was to be found. Had 3 of those back, to back, to back. Notice the brown shading around the torque convertor bolt hole at the 9 o-clock position? disregard the red arrow, it was showing a right hand up pipe replacement with the trans out.

Looks like good times.

Don't pay me any attention, I am a disgruntled Southern transplant who is still adjusting after a decade in the Northeast!

Well that takes care of any 24 hour dealies. On a side note todays stuff doesn't hold a candle to the friction modifier from the 80's. That shit could make you puke. We used to hide rags soaked in it under guys tool boxes for a few laughs.

Quote: We see around us that there are no old techs I hear ya on that, I'm the oldest in my shop at 41.

Well, I just checked the 2012 Mustang and it calls for friction modifier with you guessed it 75w-140. I guess the hotline's oil being better idea is questionable. Maybe the clutch material in the Super-Duty's are different which would delete the modifier.

Looking at the shop manual procedures, 2007 was the last year model which mentions using friction modifier, although it doesn't mention one word about 75w-140. It also states to soak the friction elements in friction modifier before installing them. So I guess the '08 up don't need XL-3 but I would still wet the clutches with the correct gear oil before installing them.

75 and a wonderfully pleasant breeze, never broke a sweat. Of course the snow will be flying before I know it though.

Quote: Are you making this dispute simply based on what we have become accustomed to doing? I say that because I have seen them tell me one thing and then next week tell me another when the vehicle was not redesigned in that amount of time. In my eyes, some of their decisions are cost driven and not what is necessarily good for the longevity of the vehicle and customer retention.

It 'tis beautiful up here, but you gotta like snow and an extremely high cost of living. I have never paid so much money in my life to be in the wilderness, down South it's free.

I want out of Vermont and you want to move to Vermont.

The hotline is off there rocker on a lot of new stuff. They have been drinking way too much of Ford's "Kool Aid". I would run friction modifier in a clutched limited slip and if it's a big unit such as a 10.5" or Dana 80 then it gets two bottles.

I dabbled in the ski industry and now I work for USPS delivering mail on my days off. I thought about hanging up the wrench and pursuing either of those professions but they just can't pay the bills like the dealership can. I want out of the flat rate portion of it but I still enjoy working on vehicles.

It just happened a few minutes ago in out shop.

Welcome aboard, that's a good one. I think everyone would agree that your avitar is worthy of the members ride section. I for one would like to see some bigger pics. Here is the link to get it put in members rides: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=37943#Post37943

Quote: unless their IDS level and calibrations are not up to date. Tried to reprogram a 6.0 yesterday and IDS absolutely would not go any further until i updated to whatever the heck it's at, at the moment.

Can't say that I have. Any idea what the speed was when the event occurred? You probably already do this, but I always drop the sensor speed range down from 99mph to around 20mph so I can get a better view of any glitches in the signal.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubb...=true#Post28691

Quote: For those of you that have done this before what is going to be cavitated in the cover? Old cover on the left, revised (new) cover on the right.

"No alignment needed" dowels in use.

I have installed reman FICM's that have almost immediately caused the scenario Bruce described. Thankfully I took the time to make up one of them fancy noid light testers.

Ah, don't take my word for it, if the car is running as designed and the register temp is acceptable then I consider the vehicle not broke. I would bet that if you had a big ass fan in front of the vehicle the high side pressures would be much lower than what you have been experiencing. There again the car is going to talk to you if there is a problem. Honda is a strange vehicle in the nature of.....well, I wouldn't use it as a yard stick to measure up how well other makes and models are working.