Brad Clayton

I think it's worse when the friggin trans mount stud spins in the rubber and then your stuck with mount and cross member being "one".

Ah hell no, that one or any other like it would get a harness for sure.

How many cross member bolts broke on ya?

The best fit is a craftsman 8 or 5/16, they don't have the shoulder in them that keeps the socket from going all the way on the glow plug.

Your definitely not the only one seeing this: Quote: 22040 6.7L - FUEL DELIVERY PRESSURE SWITCH CONNECTOR PIGTAIL F-SUPER DUTY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 6.7L DIESEL ENGINE MAY EXPERIENCE CONTAMINATION OR DAMAGE TO THE FUEL DELIVERY PRESSURE SWITCH CONNECTOR. A PIGTAIL (8U2Z-14S411-ZB) IS NOW AVAILABLE FOR THE FUEL DELIVERY PRESSURE SWITCH. FUEL DELIVERY PRESSURE SWITCH CONNECTOR DAMAGE NO LONGER REQUIRES THE ENGINE HARNESS TO BE REPLACED. EFFECTIVE DATE: 09/09/2011

That is impressive! Looks like pretty good visibilty out the windshield too.

Gotta heli-coil in my 5.0 Explorer left manifold, but she don't make nowhere near the heat energy. So I can't say one way or the other.

We have a plasma cutter, and with delicate surgeon like hands, broken bits can be "blown out" without damage to the threads.

Quote: Quote: 99 f-350 bucket truck.Says will stall at half a tank.brings it in with a full tank.any ideas? Anyway,this was a test to see what kind of response I would recieve from members for such a lame question. You jokester, you were looking for someone to jump your shit, but we know you to well around here.

Glad to hear you got it out without having to monkey with head removal. It's always good to be able to breathe a sigh of relief when an exhaust manifold job works out.

I gotta say that the V-6 will shit and git compared to the 4 banger. I would highly suggest doing more than a 10 minute test drive at the dealer. If they won't let you have it for the day, then see if you can rent one comparable to the one you want to purchase. Drive it over the weekend and you will have a much better idea of what is going to be sitting in your driveway for the next few years.

That and the Beatles aren't my cup o tea.

We been to slow here to even run an oasis much less any of the other doo-dads.

Quote: I am looking to buy an escape for my wife and have a few questions that I need answered by guys that see these things come in. I am not partial to either the I-4 or the v-6 engine.(not interested in the hybrid) There goes all your powertrain options My decision on which engine I choose is going to be based on your feedback. The 4 cylinder is going to be a tad under powered if you plan on loading this thing up. What engine seems to have the most issues? The V-6 for sure Which one has the most high dollar issues? The older V-6's (coils, catalytic convertors, ect). Are these anything like the diesels that require engine removal for repairs such as headgaskets, rear seals, timing belts etc. No, and that stuff doesn't give trouble on either engine. I read on here that some people break the gears in the transfer case by spinning the wheels in snow. Most definitely, the PTU's are very weak and sensitive to abuse. Are there any other drivetrain issues with these. The auto trans are reliable? Any options that I should stay away from that tend to be problems? Options that are really nice add ons? I have been looking mainly at the xlt package 4x4 (appears that package will suite her well) Thanks very much for the facts and opinions. I guess if I were looking for one of these rigs it would have to be brand new or no older that an '08. Aside from the transmission cooler recall, they have been good units. The newer 4 cylinders have seen a few t-stats hang up but nothing major. I would stay away from anything older. The older v-6 models will break you if the cats clog up or a coil goes out. The older trans were bad about the torque converters deteriorating and the clutch material would clog up the non serviceable filter (you can imagine where that leads). As far as the PTU is concerned, you just have to use common sense. Keep the fluid checked regularly and if it is dirty change it!!!! If you get stuck don't beat on it too bad. Let it cool down if really hammering the all wheel drive and make sure the tires are matched. As far as options go, the more shit you got the more shit will break, right? Although I do like the ambient lighting option. And the touch screen nav with back up camera.

The brake pedal position swith and or the low fluid level switch in the master can set this code. It seems you have ruled out the BOO switch, so I would concentrate on the low level switch. Aside from doing a good visual inspection of the wiring at the master cylinder, the easiest thing to do is to clear the code and jump out the switch. If you can't drive it long enough to get it to act up then let the customer know the switch is jumped out and let them drive it to see if the code returns. If it doesn't, then I would put my money on the master. If the code returns then you have some wiring issues to trace down, but I doubt that will be the case. Unplug the connector on the side of the master and jump out pins 2 (red arrow) and 3 (green arrow).

Check into FedEx Redline, they do it cheap enough. Had a 289 shipped up from SC that was on 2 pallets do to being in a million pieces and having extra Mutstang stuff to go with it. I forgot what it cost, but it weren't bad.

Ford could use this in an anti-trailer sway commercial. http://www.killsometime.com/videos/7261/Towing-a-Car-on-a-Trailer-Fail

Quoted from Alex: Quote: I have recently picked up a 2010 VW Jetta TDI

Damn son, you could collect them recipes up and sell a book. I'd buy it!

Quote: You got me with the word Bacon in the title. Agreed! I have to reference back to this. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38990#Post38990

Since we are on the subject, here is my take: Oasis - I personally run an OASIS on 98% of the vehicles I work on. TSB/SSM - These come up on OASIS and or I access them here at DTS. FSA - I always read an FSA before starting. I also recheck it briefly for any red text updates. Workshop manual - I consult this when confronted with a new task I have never done before or I need a torque spec. EVTM - I have this out even before I begin a wiring concern. I use this manual 100% of the time. It trumps both the workshop and PC/ED manuals. PC/ED - I use it for codes I have never seen before. I also use it for theory and operation, an extremely important tool for figuring out what the PCM is doing with inputs and outputs. The other tabs in PTS are used everyone once in a while.

I got photos but their at the house. I'll look for them tonight.

Excellent find All of us are going to be thinking alike pretty soon. It's a slow process, but I have quite a few guys in the shop starting to think outside the "box". It would definitely seem that the "burn your fingers and blind your eyes" test was a good progression from the ohm meter. But now and more than ever the voltage drop test can be a time and money saver. Just got to get every body on board.

Quote: IMHO, there is NO WAY a good FP should struggle to prime the system in a couple of seconds. This should be a red flag your FP is retiring. Oh I agree with all that is said about it and it did cross my mind but the customer was not interested in pursuing it. Hell I couldn't get a customer to buy a rad in a 6.4 yesterday, and it was pouring out. He was in for a mil and wanted to know how I knew the rad was bad. I pointed him to a visual inspection being the first thing his money buys. Quote: Remember Fords early EFI efforts? The ones with a lift pump in the tank and a pressure pump on the frame? Never was a fan, almost lost my job over a diag on one of those and it was a correct diag. The sm was a hot head.

When I get lost on back roads, I employ that exact same logic.