Brad Clayton

Just did one, same situation as MiKill had, drained the oil and the needle bearings from the lifter flowed out into the drain pan.

Thinkin of relocatin? Or are you tryin to track down a dirtbag dealer that screwed up a truck that you are now trying to fix?

Ditto on that. Do yourself a favor and pass on this job. If you cannot convince the customer to replace the gaskets, then you will be the bad guy when it comes back, trust me on that. There is an easy way to convince this guy to buy a gasket set. It's a simple matter of phsycoligy. The guy obviously has money, cause he owns an Excursion and he has bought the studs, which ain't cheap. So he doesn't want to buy a gasket set because he is a cheap bastad or he doesn't want to waste the money. Unfortunately he has fallen victim to the internet and bum info. This is a problem we face with all the information at anyones finger tips, be it good or in this case bad. Anyway, you must compare this job to something that will really hit home with this guy. Say he is a contractor or lawyer or the best is if he or someone he knows has had surgery. Then you can compare the jobs and say if you were having this done and the doctors did not use blah blah blah, then you would have to be opened up again, or whatever. I found this works everytime! And the rare case it doesn't, I send them packing.

Quote: that your company hired and trained to tell us what to do. I do what ever I wanta cause I'm a Vermanta.

If I wasn't working at Okemo, I would have got 5 days off in a row. But I ended up with today off even though my dealer said I could come in and work today if I wanted to. Uhh, think I'll pass. Gotta work on Cristmas.

This thread is over 3 years old, I'm hoping he's moved on to newer projects.

You gotta go outside to turn around, there Jethro Bodeen?

Who cares how much or if any play is in the STC fitting. If it's not the updated design, replace it!

I'll consider that an early Christmas present, what size socks do you wear?

We just got our special tools in today. 8 boxes of 6.7L, 6R140W tools.

Nice to see its powered by Ford. That's the second super car I have seen this week with a Ford powerplant.

There not concerned with opacity, they want almost no smoke, no matter what color it is!

Starts 01/01/2010, go straight to vids 4 and 5 for video and pics. http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/05_Legislative/RegulatoryActions/DieselworkshopVideos.htm

Quote: Where's your customer from Mike? Ken Knapp Ford

How would you like to be a brand new diesel tech and pulling this job? Talk about getting thrown to the wolves.

I dont give shit like this a second thought. There is way worse running around that we dont even know about. I just give a headshake and say is this how you really wanna roll/let it play out? Then I give another headshake.

Nice tip, did you find that by accident? One if my service advisors knows a gillion keyboard short cuts from just playing around. Another thought I had about this IPR percentage maxing out: it might not hurt to pull the valve and have a look at the end of it. I also would run the vehicle hard til its smokin hot then let it idle and see what the IPR percentage hangs out at. If it starts climbing at idle, then I would question the customer to see if the motor has been apart. If it hasn't I would start diggin in for a high pressure leak and turbo issue. Even if it does not get to the root of the problem, these still maybe problems and I have found that you need to fix what you know is broken before continuing on.

When the ICP sensor was replaced, was the connector replaced also? If I unplug the ICP or EBP connector and the shell stays in the sensor, I replace it. You could have a pin fitment problem. I think the biggest key is going to be reproducing the concern. If the customer can get it to act up more frequently, then it maybe best to load the IDS up and go for an "extended" test drive while you ride shotgun. In the event that I can't get anyone to drive a vehicle, I put the cursor of the IDS over the movie capture button, then I rest my hand near the left mouse button. If a concern happens I just tap the button and never have to take my eyes off the road. I then pull over when I can and see what I got. If this harness is giving trouble, it maybe very difficult to find. I have filleted replaced 6.0L harnesses open and found some really frigged up wires inside. I would also keep a close eye on sync and rpm pids as well as the icp voltage while driving.

I have actually, but didn't think of it til you just said something. Mine was a little diferent though. The pan had got stuffed with paper by some disgruntaled individual. But mine would suck the paper up and starve the motor of oil at any engine speed. I let it run at idle and it would start to backfire from the lifters bleeding down. Pulled motor (it was an E-bag) and removed pan, cleaned everything up, reinstalled pan, and engine, and it ran mint forever on.

What exactly are you meaning when you say limp mode? Are you saying it idles only? Or does it just reduce power? I am wondering if your AP is acting up and not setting a code. It will definetly kick on the wrench lite and anytime I have ever seen a wrench lite on it was always an accel pedal concern. With the codes you have listed, I have yet to see a "all of a sudden" limp mode condition that can be reset by cycling the key. '05's are notorious for pattern failures. If it has not had a STC fitting replaced or updated, then it needs one. It's gonna fail, just a matter of time. We have an o-ring service kit for ICP concerns on customer pay jobs. They get the whole ball of wax minus the injector top o-rings, and they are inspected as well as the oil rail input tits for damage or wear. The turbo is another classic and we all know it. When in doubt pull it and open it up, most of the time your gonna find a problem and in the slim chance you don't, it's better to have checked it off the list than to have overlooked it and find out it was the culprit 10 hours later.

Robert, have you checked to see if has a factory RKE system already on it? For a truck that old you basically have to look for the module. On those trucks and all the cars back then, you had to jump out a two pin connector to put the vehicle inot program mode to accept new key fobs. Take a look under your steering column for the connector. It will be a two pin male conncector with nothing plugged into it. Be careful because there are two connectors like that. The one you want will have a white/yellow wire and a grey/orange wire or close to it. The other connector has green or blue wires in it. Take a jumper wire or screwdriver or whatever and short the pins out while the key is on, the door locks will cycle. If they do, then your in and all you need to do is purchase a key fob and hit the button to program it while the connector is shorted out. Turn the key off and the locks will cycle again letting you know it took. The connector will be pretty visible as soon as you look past the knee trim panel and just about center where the steering column is. It maybe taped up in the harness and you may have to move it around a bit. Of course if you don't see it then it's not equipped and your back to square one.

What exactly is modified to make it "high sulfur" usable? I second that comment on exporting, Bruce. A couple of years ago I modded up two 6.0L Super dutys heading to Sweden. I would love to know how they worked out and if they needed work and so on.

That's what the small pics of the wife or grandkids are for!