eastendpowerstroke

Hey Bruce with your "connections" at Ford and IH and your shinny new teacher of the year gold star /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif (congrats BTW), you should be able to score one pretty easy I would think.. Hell you had a whole motor before anybody officially even saw one /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Hey Bruce with your "connections" at Ford and IH and your shinny new teacher of the year gold star /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif (congrats BTW), you should be able to score one pretty easy I would think.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

HA! little do you know Keith it was swapped to a dealer in your neck of the woods /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif actually it went to a dealer in PA .

Wow nobody flamed my half assed zip tie fix. I'm a bit disappointed in you guys /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

I'm happy to have a early build 6.0L. I got it for a steal it was 7 months old and had 70k miles (112 kl)for you northerners.the truck was treated like one of Jim's famous "oil patch rigs" Start it in the morning work it all day perform no maintenance and it only stopped when it broke, then he would bitch and cry about how much money he was loosing when it was down.He decided to trade it in for a 04 when I had the engine torn apart melted piston etc. couldn't wait for me to fix it so I bought it for under $20k , and got paid to fix it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

We keep one "KDB" (known dead battery) around just for cases like this . If it's bad I know it's bad it tests bad with the load tester and hydrometer and it won't hold a charge but none of the three testers will fail it use the KDB to get codes and "FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME".

Quote: I'm a grade 8 drop out... my only claim to fame is desire.... (Using my best slackjawed redneck voice) Damn Jimmy you sure use a lot of them fancy words for a old grease monkey what ain't got no schoolin... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Steve you got a PM. what size bolt is in the head so I can pick one up and "banjo" it

I got my first broken down 6.4L how I managed to make it this far I don't know. Anyway we swapped it to another dealer they pick it up and drive 3 miles starts bucking and check engine light on. p0193 FRP sensor code . I performed the pinpoint test to the point of checking the harness under the valve cover when I removed the valve cover I found the connector wasn't seated so I tried to seat it and it wouldn't lock on I found the "lock tab" of the connector was although complete and unbroken was kinda sprung (for lack of a better word) and wouldn't lock ala 7.3L UVC harness. My tip is next time I find this I will skip the pinpoint test and remove the oil filler/breather from the valve cover and look at the connector, mine was just about to fall off the sensor and could be seen clearly through the breather hole in the valve cover as seen in the photos. I'll include photos of my 5 cent ghetto fabulous zip tie repair on a brand new $60k truck, don't judge me it works perfect and I didn't have to wait for a new harness. photo 1 shows the FRP Photo 2 shows the connector not seating photo 3 shows my Ghetto repair photo 4 shows where the connector can be viewed with the breather removed.

Most of my guys(well all but one) use method one. The one is just a hack and has an array of fence posts,air chisels, plumbing pipes, hammers, and 4 letter word to do the job. I personally remove the wheel speed sensor from the hub just so it doesn't get damaged. clean any rust lube everything real well new yellow o ring always, seals, and dust boots if even slightly questionable. I use a OTC (QT1072 Front Hub Puller) because I have had it for a long time but it needs to be adapted for FSD use with two long 1/2 bolts and nuts, knock two studs out of the hub and put the bolts in and it pushes on the axle to help push the hub out. with that tool and my OTC ball joint press and full adapter kit I can do 4 ball joints on a 4x4 FSD in less than .9 usually, plus alignment

take the ball out of someones / everyones mouse ... sign coworkers up for free daily gay porn e mails... homo rainbow bumper stickers are always a clasic... put 5-6 .OZ of stick on wheel weights on the inside of a front tire (thats 141-170 grams for you Canadians).. rubber glove zip tied over the tail pipe.. crazy glue the caps on the pens ..

A puddle of brake cleaner under a foam coffee cup will melt the bottom out of it and with a little finesse you can get it to hold until its touched at that point the bottom just falls out.. I have a little 120v flasher that you place under a light bulb in a drop light..on.........off.............on.........off.. add a few stray bolts into a guys box or tray of hardware during a big job and wait till he's standing there trying to figure out where they go.. if he's an asshole take some away!! take some epoxy and glue a quarter to the floor.. put antiseize inside some blue rubber gloves and put them back in the box... I'll think of some more ...stay tuned

I sorta hooked on Sat radio I have no use for 99% of mindless censored broadcast radio, so I got a $30 Sirius radio (car mount) with a $0 12V transformer and the antenna on a little bracket out side played through a $1 Sony boom box I got at a police property auction in in 1996 Me and the guy next to me split the subscription cost. Howard Stern , Bubba , and Octane /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

Mr."Not Me" must have one hell of a commute from Long Island NY to Slave Lake because he works in my shop too!!!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Theres a reason I have a tool box as big as I do because I truly hate having to "share" tools. I have my own Superstar,NGS,vcm/laptop and a myriad of other tools that many consider "shop tools" because Mr. Not Me breaks it and puts it back so it's not his problem to worry about getting it fixed/replaced therefore freeing up his time to gripe about how poorly the shop tools are maintained.

well I had the chance to try the tips today. I opened the hood and soaked the piss out of the clamps first thing then worked my way to the clamp nuts. the down pipe didn't budge /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif but 1/3 of the y-pipe popped loose as soon as I loosened the nut. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif So I got the air hammer out and one brap each had them off! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Never again will I be brought to the point of throwing stuff /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smhair.gif in frustration from a v band clamp

Quote: Keith Browning I have a test IDM which I always plug in before condemning anything else, especially on vans! DITTO. I have one that I got from a wrecked 1999 F250 that was replaced one week prior to the trucks untimely demise. By the time your at the IDM it's pretty much a sure bet it's bad but being able to be 100% is just so nice!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Thanks. I usually used a long thin screwdriver and kinda wedged it into the space between the clamp and pipe and whacked it with a hammer but I'm going to try both the penetrating oil and air hammer tips. Approx how long till you hear the "sweet sound" of the clamp ?

Keith I'll bet you could find a nice mustang or crown vic to fab up turbo kit on..... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

OK I know this sounds like a stupid question for an experienced guy to ask, But what do you guys use to get the v band clamps off the exhaust inlet and outlet of the turbo? I had one today that gave me one hell of a time it wouldn't pop off and I was thinking the there must be a better way.

I'm on the bend it back boat too havent had a problem..(yet).

have you used the tester? does it do the same thing with other trailers? what year is the truck ? I know that the "early" build TBC part # was replaced by the "late"build part

I have personally had my house burn down about 4 years ago, I'd take a shop fire with a few days off over that any day!

I'm a U.S. citizen so no health care for me, /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif I have a hard time converting .LBS and MPH to Kilos plus if I go to far north... who the hell wants to learn french!! I will take the beer /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Quote: Jim Warman , you are a real asshole and I don't mind saying so. If I was there and you said those things to my face I would kick your ass. And I live at 203 rail road street Laingsburg Michigan. Bring your happy, no supporting , union busting, porking ass up here and you will get yours, mutherf,,ker. People like you make me abosolutly sick, you porking f a g. WOW Jimmy you got a real fan there huh? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif FWIW I agree with you, flying directly against natural selection where the slowest and weakest are the first to go unions only serve to protect the weakest of the heard by dragging the rest down to there level. Also just because a "tech" can pass paper tests like ASE or what ever you Canucks have and become "qualified" still doesn't mean they can fix a sandwich! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif you know the SR.master diesel tech that puts two # 2 injectors in trying to fix the #5 missfire. Better yet a turbo,map sensor,egr valve,and two days for a no power concern that turned out to just needed a cold side CAC tube. And I almost forgot the E4OD trans that he replaced because he couldn't diag the blown fuse!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really like this pic